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**Pics of my blown engine**

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Originally posted by lowridin2g
he probably had the boost controller hooked up without a boost gauge and is just too embarrassed to admit it :p
Click to expand...

dude the boost controller was OFF so it wouldnt even matter! I had it off cause i didnt have a boost guage yet. Besides I wasnt even in boost when it happened.

And it wasnt from over reving....i was only at like 4k rpms when it blew

Im got a stock engine rebuilt from LA...its in the car now..everything is good to go...just waiting on that gold peice in the pictures that was all tore to hell to show up. The shop who rebuilds it puts a better crank sensor in there to prevent from this happening again...plus its gotta 3 year warranty.
 
I doubt the crank sensor was involved. You snapped a rod bolt, probably from spinning a big-end bearing, and that probably from an oiling issue. Those pistons weren't happy, the sides shouldn't be caramelized like that. You were blowing down past the rings like they weren't even there. At some point, the cylinder pressures were _way_ out of hand.

Better luck with the new motor.
 
I used to be a block inspector for motor works and Ive seen quite a few of those type of blocks (big hole in side). I have to give it to ya dude, you pulled a big expensive WOOPS! :thumbdown Also, when was the last time you checked youre oil? How was your air filter?
 
I use mobile one synthetic and I had just changed it like 2-3 weeks before it happened. Air filter? Its fine
 
I didnt mean to imply that you were neglecting your motor. who put the bottom end together last? Cause if it did break because of the rod bolt chances are that whom ever assembled it could have used a used bolt or over torqed it:thumbdown
 
Originally posted by Travis_GST
dude the boost controller was OFF so it wouldnt even matter! I had it off cause i didnt have a boost guage yet. Besides I wasnt even in boost when it happened.

And it wasnt from over reving....i was only at like 4k rpms when it blew

Im got a stock engine rebuilt from LA...its in the car now..everything is good to go...just waiting on that gold peice in the pictures that was all tore to hell to show up. The shop who rebuilds it puts a better crank sensor in there to prevent from this happening again...plus its gotta 3 year warranty.
Click to expand...

when you say you took it off, did you just take it off or did you take it off and put the vaccum lines back to the stock way?
 
When i say the boost controller was off, i mean it was turned off, not off the car. With it off the highest it'll go is stock boost level.

And nighthawk01...if u had read the previous posts, i said i was getting a rebuilt one from LA
 
Originally posted by lowridin2g
LOL @ u. so when u say it was turned off, which way was the knob turned? was it tightened all the way? cause if it was your very wrong and i dub u dsm moron of the year. :thumb:
Click to expand...


Dude ur an idiot...seriously...get some help...it was a electronic boost controller and it doesnt matter matter which way the knob is turned if it is OFF.

http://www.alltrac.net/manuals/HKSEVCEZ-3.jpg

read 2nd sentence...then go back to grade school :thumb:
 
Originally posted by Travis_GST
Dude ur an idiot...seriously...get some help...it was a electronic boost controller and it doesnt matter matter which way the knob is turned if it is OFF.

http://www.alltrac.net/manuals/HKSEVCEZ-3.jpg

read 2nd sentence...then go back to grade school :thumb:
Click to expand...

Yea electronics will just run stock boost when they are turned off. This has nothing to do with the controller.
 
could be anynumber of reasons. couldhve been run hard before and weakend it and it finally gave out. I find it highly likly that that is from over boost if anything boost would help rods to stay together, not tear them apart
 
the burn on the pistons is rich it was def somehting internal nothign to do with tuning the damn things are brown. it it was lean you would have white pistons. and if it was lean it would have stuck causing the piston to stick to the wall i think it has something to do with the top of the piston. Maybe to much boost would do thta but idk i think it would have thrown the other pistons thne and not just one.I porb worng but thats what i think.
 
yea that far left piston was bent in the cylinder wall....just stuck in there. The two middle pistons were in the same position like they are suppose to be but cause that one was bent, it was in a different position than the far right piston.

I was having a lil trouble getting into gears....thats what makes me think it was cra nkwalk cause thats suppose to be a symptom.
 
Ok soo how many motors u guys built. oh wait u guys just stick a boost controller and a catback on and call yourself tuners. I am not calling my self a tuner either but i bet i know one heck of a lot more than you guys do. anyway to explain the boost helpin it stay together. u have to understand why rods break. it is because of the stress on it from constantly switching directions at tdc in between the exhaust and intake stroke. now if when thats happenin if there is boost pushing the piston back down then there isn't as much pull on the rod from trying to change directions of the piston. IT'S COMON SENSE. I grew up in a machine shop where 900hp small block chevys were built every day and i am currently 1 semester away from having a masters in mechanical engineering. The rich lean thing didn't have a thing to do with the rod poking a hole in the block. so untill you guys actuall build a motor don't talk about thing you don't know
 
Originally posted by bastarddsm
looks like u had a rod bolt break. probably from over revving. if it was too much boost not enough fuel your pistons would be broke or buned through not the rods. whats worse is about an hour after i read this post initally my car blew up as well. I am thinkin it is a spun rod bearing. It is still sitting in a feild entrance waiting to be trailered home
Click to expand...
:thumb: exactly too hhigh rpm=launched rod.
 
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