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**Pics of my blown engine**

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nope, not a factor at all.
 
Well look gentlemen, regardless of what type of gas, who drove the piss out of the car, or who built the motor. Fact is it blew. Not every piece of metal poured is perfect. They have flaws. Things happen. I think that this stumper will probably never be solved. All you can do is race the piss out of your car and hope for the best. As far as the integrity of the metal in your vehicle is concerned. Thats why people spend big bucks on good pieces. :cool:
 
Originally posted by realhp=turbo
All you can do is race the piss out of your car and hope for the best.


Well i dunno about all that....have you ever blown your motor before?

I just spent $5000 because of the blown engine and taking my chances and 'racing the piss out of it' is not an option. Maybe you can keep forkin out 5g's, but not me.
 
Originally posted by Travis_GST
Well i dunno about all that....have you ever blown your motor before?

I just spent $5000 because of the blown engine and taking my chances and 'racing the piss out of it' is not an option. Maybe you can keep forkin out 5g's, but not me.

LOL, Damm 5g's holy shyt you got raped man you could of bought a whole new motor for like 1300 shipped with ecu, wiring harness, and awd tranny from www.flashoptions.com and it would of been a 6 bolt. Damm dude you gotta shop around.
 
Man I wish I didn’t loose my dead seven bold pictures. Anyhow, what happened to your block looked identical to mine holes and piston soup and everything? Mine was caused by a dead turbo. I wasn't driving my car when it happened because I know better yeah it looks like if you where to have taken my pictures… Literally.

Joey 99GSX
 
looks like what happened to my engine. i will post some pics soon. same thing with the rpms. just put it in third and came off the clutch and started accelerating normally and pop!
 
I am going to address a few things here to help everybody understand some things.

First off running the engine at high rpms does not have to cause the car to fail at the time of overrevving. When the engine revs to higher rpms the tensile forces in the rod are higher. This increase in the tensile force will cause the rods to sustain cyclical loading failure over time. However as the name suggests cyclical loading does not have to happen all at once. The higher stress states for a given number of cycles will cause the damage cup to fill up faster. Eventually it will overfill and boom bye bye engine even if you are not at high rpms at the time. There are many refrences out there if you are interested in cyclical failure take a look at any intermediate mechanics of materials book.

As for intake pressure causing rod failure you really can't say for sure without some serious looking into the matter. The intake pressures may very well cause higher transient tensile stresses because you have not changed the stiffness of the rod and you may be able to reach harmonics during ignition or the opening of the exhause valves. If you have ever been in an old building and heard the pipes rattle when you turn the water off you can directly relate this to the rods. This transient tension could cause increased cycles and subsequent failure when not under boost pressure. like i said you just can't be sure. You also have to look into the torquing moments caused at the 90 degree mark. Here your rods are at their maximum angle and can cause the entire cross sectional area of the rod to be stressed non uniformly. This is why rods typically are shaped like an I beam.

Just looking at the picture it almost looks like you ripped the bottom of the piston apart. Did you say the piston was stuck in the wall of the cylinder?
 
Overrevving definately will cause motors to fail. Stock rod bolts aren't designed to handle the force at 9000rpm's. Also stock rods are not designed for it either. Its not the only reason for it as stated before, but it is the main reason for a rod to go. That, too much power, and too much/not enough oil pressure, can all cause it. But seeing that his car was mostly stock, and he kept up on oil, I am guessing that he overrevved the motor at one point.
 
Originally posted by dsmracer69
LOL, Damm 5g's holy shyt you got raped man you could of bought a whole new motor for like 1300 shipped with ecu, wiring harness, and awd tranny from www.flashoptions.com and it would of been a 6 bolt. Damm dude you gotta shop around.


The 5g's i was referring to is including install and the rental car. I definately didnt want to go the cheap route. I did that with my civic motor swap and it turned into a big nightmare. So no i didnt get 'raped'...i spent the extra money it took to get the engine from someone we trusted and get it installed from someone we trusted with a 3 year parts & labor warranty. Tell me u can get that with a $1300 motor...i dont think so.
 
I could of bought a couple of cars for 5000 grand but I understand if you not mechanically incline so 5 grand is good im counting 1300 with me doing the work....
 
Originally posted by dsmracer69
I could of bought a couple of cars for 5000 grand but I understand if you not mechanically incline so 5 grand is good im counting 1300 with me doing the work....

Actually i am quite mechanically inclined....i practically did my whole civic engine swap after the person that was suppose to do it ####ed it up. Like i say, i wanted to make sure it was done right and had garrantees and warrantys out the yin yang.
 
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