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1G Part-Throttle Stutter

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Yoda31

Probationary Member
18
14
Mar 17, 2023
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Guys I’m at a loss for what could possibly be causing this stumble and am praying someone can rid me of this gremlin.

Short backstory:
6bolt early 92’ Talon rebuilt just about everything from the bottom up. Dialed in idle/cruise tune and had been running fantastic for several weeks. Went out one day to start tuning WOT and before I could start, car started acting up. Got it home and pulling into garage it died and would not restart. Fuel pump was not coming on and I found the Hotwire between the relay and fuel pump (rewired) had fried at the connector off of the pump hanger. Rewired that section and pump kicked on. Fired right back up.
Then the stumble began and I’m convinced it is coincidence as I have gone through everything I can imagine fuel related with no change.

I’m convinced it is somehow timing related as I don’t recall in link seeing ignition timing make large jumps like it does. I believe as it fluctuates it typically “runs” up and down instead of jumping from low to high, but I am not sure.

Things tested/checked/replaced:

Fuel - Fuel pump tested & replaced, all lines cleaned/cleared, both filters cleaned/tested, injectors cleaned and tested both on & off vehicle, connectors to injectors replaced, fpr checked/diaphram good/holding steady psi while running, mpi replaced, replaced fuel (e85)

Air - blt multiple times no leaks, compression test both hot & cold throttle open comes back fine. No change from when running great. Does not leak down.

Spark - 2 sets of plugs tested at different gaps, plug wires ohm-tested and replaced, coil packs replaced, ptu replaced, tried 4 different CAS (making sure it’s not 180* out), ecu link v3 tested & replaced.

Other sensors/misc:

Disconnected or replaced coolant temp/iat/isc (fiav deleted), tps, MAP, no change. Mechanical timing components all new, mechanical timing verified, timing tensioner replaced, voltage at battery while running steady low 14s, lifters/rockers pass visual inspection, oil clarity and pressure look great, throttle cable/biss/open-close sensor functioning properly,

I’m sure I’ll be adding more that I’m not thinking of atm.

The stutter is very consistent as if missing on one cylinder. It revs fairly clean, but seems to be just a fraction slower to rev than normal. With throttle held at any percentage, the stutter happens and is consistent with the rotation of the motor.

I’ve noticed the timing in logs on link seems odd but not sure as I never noticed before how it fluctuated. Spark test seemed a bit inconsistent, but got spark from all four plugs. I attributed the inconsistency to bad grounding during the test on my part but may be related to the issue.

I’ve got no idea where to look from here and would seriously appreciate any suggestions for things I may have missed. At this point, I’m just retesting things I’ve already checked several times.

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Move one of the coil packs to a different cylinder, it sounds like you have COP so that rules out a plug wire. What plugs are in it and do they also test pretty equal to each other?
These are only suggestions for hunting down the elusive miss.
 
Is it a specific cylinder? If so, can we focus on that one? Any way to check within ecmlink? I'm still new to it.

Post a log, attach as photo. Thanks
I don’t believe it is one specific cylinder, just pulled plug wires one at a time as well, while running and affected all cylinders the same, with stutter also remaining each time. Working on the log, not sure I did it right.

Move one of the coil packs to a different cylinder, it sounds like you have COP so that rules out a plug wire. What plugs are in it and do they also test pretty equal to each other?
These are only suggestions for hunting down the elusive miss.
New OEM coils, Ive swapped them with known working coils as well with no change.
 

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I'd go back to looking at fuel. I'm on a phone or I'd look at your log. Take a log as you pull each wire (it's a cylinder drop test). Be careful, you can get a light tingle if you are grounded to the car......OMG
 
I'd go back to looking at fuel. I'm on a phone or I'd look at your log. Take a log as you pull each wire (it's a cylinder drop test). Be careful, you can get a light tingle if you are grounded to the car......OMG
Each restart (except first one, my mistake) is with the next plug wire pulled, cyl. 1 to cyl. 4. Won't stay running when a plug is pulled while already running.

Do you have a setting with no lift shifting or where it overlaps a specific rpm range and it's activating. I'm not a laptop to overlook the log, sorry
NLTS is not activated. I have antilag on but, set to activate above 43% throttle and symptom occurs at idle and any throttle %.
 

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We’ve determined that cylinders 1 & 4 have a consistent miss. You can see it clearly with a timing light used on the plug cables. That and the unburnt fuel in those two cylinders. They are firing, but miss in a rhythmic pattern.
 
Correct firing order?
 
Bad coil? Switch them for a test.
 
🤔
I didn't read this whole thread but did you test the PTU? Our ignition isn't very complicated. CAS in phase?
 
🤔
I didn't read this whole thread but did you test the PTU? Our ignition isn't very complicated. CAS in phase?
Yes, so the CAS has been replaced 4 times now, once with a black top, confirmed, not 180 out. For the heck of it, we intentionally turned it 180 out just to see. Timed and retimed many times. PTU has been replaced twice now I believe.

We have tested resistance and continuity on power, ground and signal wires from CAS to ECU, ECU to PTU and PTU to coils. All check out.
 
Sure points to that one coil or signal to it, by the symptoms 🤔
 
Sure points to that one coil or signal to it, by the symptoms 🤔
I know, I wish it was that simple. Been driving myself crazy for months trying to diagnose this. Rather offer up like a grand at this point, for someone to figure out the cause and the repair that leads to its cure.
 
I do understand that statement :idontknow: :pray:
 
I know, I wish it was that simple. Been driving myself crazy for months trying to diagnose this. Rather offer up like a grand at this point, for someone to figure out the cause and the repair that leads to its cure.
Did you check for any corrosion, damage wires etc at PTU or the 1/4 coil wires?
 
Did you check for any corrosion, damage wires etc at PTU or the 1/4 coil wires?
I have, we’ve also replaced the plugs at the CAS, the PTU, and the coils. Cleaned them, tested continuity and voltage through each. We’ve also dropped tested the grounds from intake to chassis, head to chassis, and PTU plug to chassis and all passed.
 
I have not been able to perform a proper leakdown test as I don’t have the right tool. We have, however run several compression tests, pressure tested the coolant system as well. The tests all came back acceptable.
 
I have not been able to perform a proper leakdown test as I don’t have the right tool. We have, however run several compression tests, pressure tested the coolant system as well. The tests all came back acceptable.
Build your own leakdown tester. Its cheap.
 
We’ve determined that cylinders 1 & 4 have a consistent miss. You can see it clearly with a timing light used on the plug cables. That and the unburnt fuel in those two cylinders. They are firing, but miss in a rhythmic pattern.
Disregard this comment. We redid it and I must’ve misinterpreted what I saw.

Build your own leakdown tester. Its cheap.
Was able to run a couple tests, before and after new headgasket, all cylinders leaked down less than 10%.

log of stumble
 

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