Stutter at stop

[300hpbound]

Morning guys,

I've got an odd issue with the little girl stuttering at a complete stop. See video below, please let me know if the video didn't come up as I'm posting at work and they've blocked Youtube. Basically any time I come to a stop it stutters horribly. Sometimes it won't happen at all (very rare) and sometimes it's so much worse, to the point it hits about 500 rpm and almost dies, then bounces back up, it always happens very quickly. It does this in any gear (it is an AUTO tranny) but seems to be exponentially worse in drive and reverse. In Neutral and in Park it doesn't stutter but it does sound like it misses every now and then. While I'm on the gas and driving though it is a perfect machine- no miss, no bucking, nothing.

I have replaced the coilpacks as well as plugs (brand new NGK gapped to ~.028-.030) and wires (brand new NGK) and still does it. Could this potentially be my O2 sensor taking a crap on me?

Thanks for your help in advance!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BUjayF1INw&feature=youtu.be

 

[upgrading_86]

Can't see the video nothing there if your cat was the problem it would be sluggish how's it run power wise check your maf sensor make sure its connected check your vacuum lines

 

[Talon96fwd]

And I would do a boost leak test!!!!!!!!

 

[tds]

Check for vacuum leaks, air leaks between maf and throttle body, possible idle air motor sticking and reacting slowly.

 

[300hpbound]

Can't see the video nothing there if your cat was the problem it would be sluggish how's it run power wise check your maf sensor make sure its connected check your vacuum lines

Sorry, I'll try and get it working on lunch, I brought my laptop in today. for a non-turbo it pulls very healthy so I don't believe it's the cat. I'm fairly certain my MAF is good as I did check it at one point but that was a few months ago, I'll check it again but it's definitely connected. Vacuum lines are all intact and are quite new as well.

And I would do a boost leak test!!!!!!!!

Non-turbo good sir

Check for vacuum leaks, air leaks between maf and throttle body, possible idle air motor sticking and reacting slowly.

I've taken carb cleaner to every point I could with the vehicle running and noted no change in idle. The ISC motor was replaced when I initially bought the car a few years ago and it was replaced with an OEM Mitsu ISC. I wouldn't put it past for it to have gone out again in roughly 4 years but I'll certainly check it again just in case.

 

[300hpbound]

Just wanted to follow up for anyone who may have some kind of similar issues. It kept getting worse, not getting a check engine light led me to believe it's something mechanical. Checked everything over and pulled my TCU to check for leaking caps as typical. Looked great. Then got a weird inkling to check my ECU as well, sure enough I've got two leaking caps that has been shorting things out. If you've got problems and everything seems hunky-dory, pull the ol ECU and thoroughly inspect it.

 

[WES_393]

I would check your ISC before installing a new ECU. They have been known to damage ECU's in the past.

But good job with the follow up! That will surely help others in the future.

 

[300hpbound]

I would check your ISC before installing a new ECU. They have been known to damage ECU's in the past.

But good job with the follow up! That will surely help others in the future.

The ISC will be checked again but I checked it in pursuit of this issue about a month ago and it ohm'd out ok. The driver on the ECU for idle control has not been damaged so I'm pretty sure I'm ok there. I'm also sending my ECU in to ECMTuning to have them clean and replace the caps that are leaking. I thoroughly checked for any other damage on the board and I caught it pretty quickly before it was unsalvageable but there's definitely corrosion.

I hate when there's no resolution to topics so I'll be damned if I'll be hypocritical!