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2G P0202 Issues

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Razorbac23

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Feb 6, 2012
Jacksonville, Florida
I've asked for two items in here so far, and you guys are two for two.

Im throwing a cel P0202. Thats a Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction.

The car runs great, it runs like crap when I unplug #2 Injector(of course)

What I've tried:

Swapping #2 and #3 injector
Ohmed the wiring between the Injector and ECU and Pin 14
Swapped Spark plugs and wires (Just to see)

I'm reading a lot about the resistor pack. How do I check it to see if it operating properly (or does this have nothing to do with it?)


Thanks in advance
 
Not sue how. There are 5 wires coming off of it. I'm sure 4 are the resistors and 1 is a return but I cant find out which is which.

So you are saying that this could be the cause??

Sorry misread your post. I switched injector two with three and the code did not follow. So that checks out the injector
 
Last edited:
So strange, my CEL came on and it was P0203 which is the 3rd cylinder injector..... something. I cleared it thru dsmlink to see if i could recreate it. I will update if it comes back because this just happened today.
 
Let me know.

I clear mine and it comes back after I re-start the car

Just looked at the resistor pack again. It has 4 Black wires and 1 white.

I'm going to assume the the white is the common. Ohmed out putting the negative lead on the white wire each other wire read 6.2 ohm's.

So Im going to say that is good.

Any ideas on the P0202 CEL???
 
An update on this situation in case anyone is searching.

My issue would up being the resistor pack. I blindly bought another and switched it out and poof, the P0202 cel is gone.

So I guess you cannot ohm out these resistor packs. The only way to check is to swap and run for a bit.

Hope this helps someone.
 
An update on this situation in case anyone is searching.

My issue would up being the resistor pack. I blindly bought another and switched it out and poof, the P0202 cel is gone.

So I guess you cannot ohm out these resistor packs. The only way to check is to swap and run for a bit.

Hope this helps someone.
Hi, I have exactly the same issue (P0202) CEL... strange thing is: I swapped injectors 1, 2, 3 and 4 to 4, 3, 2, 1 (so 1/4 and 2/3 got swapped). The DTC moved to cyl 3 (P0203). I then changed injector #3 to a remanufactured one (I bought it as new but got a reburb...). Strangely, I got P0202 again!!! I swapped 3/2 again and the DTC stayed as P0202... this does not make any sense. I will put back the original injector and do another swap and see what happens...

I checked all the wiring and ohmed the resistor pack... all with 5.6 ohms... but yours was within spec too and the issue got resolved by changing the resistor ... interesting...
 
I had this issue when I first installed dsmlink. It was on cylinder one though. Checked every possible cause and ended up sending back to ecmtuning where they recreated the symptoms. Was the ecu I bought from them. They fixed it and haven’t had a problem since
 
Just to throw this out there, I had a p0201 when I first picked up my 2g. Long story short it, was the injector. How I tested was checking their resistance (ohms). But the catch with mine was this; Resistance only went crazy when the engine was hot. It never acted up when cold. So in the process of diagnosis, here's what I did:

Clear your codes, start and drive the vehicle until it starts to misfire and/or throw a code. It may not throw a code yet, but it doesn't necessarily need to. Once it starts to act up, you know you are in the failed state to catch it. Then Ohm your injectors and see which one is way different than the others. You should see similar values for all, and as with any resistance testing, the warmer the item being tested, the higher the ohms will read. In my case, it would read open/barely flickering into a reading that couldn't be made out.

This is something to consider when checking components like injectors and coils etc. Heat plays a big role in when they act up, and you may never see it out of spec if you don't test it when it's in a failed state. If all your injectors read close to equal values, you know they are not the issue.
 
Hello guys - bringing an update to my story :) Changed fuel filter, spark plugs (used NGK iridium - the old ones were in the end of life), cleaned all injectors (standard ultrassonic machine), cleaned the Throttle Body , increased the idle RPM and guess what... Check Engine light (MIL) gone. Originally my idle was rough and sometimes my vehicle was stalling with AC ON - I knew there was something wrong (TPS or IAC or dirty TB... ) upon removing the TB and testing the components, the IAC was dead (although the coils are good... all with around 30ohms of resistance). Very weird, but at least I don`t need to replace my ECM :)
 
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