kingje1
Proven Member
- 86
- 23
- Feb 27, 2022
-
Nashville,
Tennessee
Hey Everyone,
(Here's background in case this helps with diagnosis. May be useless but am including just in case)
Stock 95 GST
I recently replaced my AC compressor to fix a pulsing issue. Before changing the compressor I had a Purge Valve code that I've had for two years because I couldn't source a new one. I have been smelling gas with the windows down and figured this was the result of said purge valve issue. In the midst of changing the compressor I noticed the vacuum line routing from the purge valve was pinched. I pulled the vacuum line and rerouted it so it wouldn't be pinched and reconnected. Finished the AC and put back together, started driving the car again. AC was great. Within about 100 miles I noticed a bad hesitation in the RPMs around where the turbo starts to kick in. Under full throttle it seems to run great. It has gotten progressively worse to the point that when I push the gas pedal it takes too long for the engine RPM to increase and the hesitation continues until I get to full turbo. Still, however, full turbo seems to be running good unless I'm just forgetting how much power I should have.
Check engine light came on and I expected to get the same Purge valve code but instead I got only P0202. I tested the injector but it tested fine, I tested the resistor and it tested fine. I thought maybe the injector tested fine but was old, leaky, clogged etc. so I replaced all four. I drove it around and got the same P0202. I pulled the Service manual and started following the diagnostic steps after the injector.
Diagnosis:
1. Per service manual the next step was to test the resistor pack. I got 5.9 to 6.0 on all pins.
2. Measure at the resistor connector. Got 12 volts on Pin 1 and ground with ingnition switch on.
3. I measured voltage at the injector connector and got 12V between pin 1 and ground.
4. Do Injector control circuit Procedure 49. This involves testing the voltage on harness B53 from the ECU while the engine is running and accelerating suddenly to make sure it's between 11 and 14 volts. I did not perform this procedure yet just because it's a pain in the butt. My limited and lazy brain told me to connect a noid light and that would tell me if the ECU is firing this thing. So i connected the noid light and sure enough it's pulsing dimly at idle and brighter under load. I transferred the noid light to another injector and compared it and it looked exactly the same. At this point I'm perplexed because I don't know where to go from here.
Am I needing to go back to do the voltage test at PIN 14 of the B53 connector even thought he noid light test was good because I'm attempting to be lazy and skip an important step?
Is there something I should check on that I may not have done correctly when working with the AC compressor?
I read through every post i could on P0202. One post said it might be the CAS which I assume is the crank position sensor. I'm not getting that code so I haven't messed with it. One post gave some steps about testing resistance between Pin 14 on the B53 connector and Pin 2 on the injector but since I did the NOID light and the resistor I wasn't sure if that was redundant or not.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
(Here's background in case this helps with diagnosis. May be useless but am including just in case)
Stock 95 GST
I recently replaced my AC compressor to fix a pulsing issue. Before changing the compressor I had a Purge Valve code that I've had for two years because I couldn't source a new one. I have been smelling gas with the windows down and figured this was the result of said purge valve issue. In the midst of changing the compressor I noticed the vacuum line routing from the purge valve was pinched. I pulled the vacuum line and rerouted it so it wouldn't be pinched and reconnected. Finished the AC and put back together, started driving the car again. AC was great. Within about 100 miles I noticed a bad hesitation in the RPMs around where the turbo starts to kick in. Under full throttle it seems to run great. It has gotten progressively worse to the point that when I push the gas pedal it takes too long for the engine RPM to increase and the hesitation continues until I get to full turbo. Still, however, full turbo seems to be running good unless I'm just forgetting how much power I should have.
Check engine light came on and I expected to get the same Purge valve code but instead I got only P0202. I tested the injector but it tested fine, I tested the resistor and it tested fine. I thought maybe the injector tested fine but was old, leaky, clogged etc. so I replaced all four. I drove it around and got the same P0202. I pulled the Service manual and started following the diagnostic steps after the injector.
Diagnosis:
1. Per service manual the next step was to test the resistor pack. I got 5.9 to 6.0 on all pins.
2. Measure at the resistor connector. Got 12 volts on Pin 1 and ground with ingnition switch on.
3. I measured voltage at the injector connector and got 12V between pin 1 and ground.
4. Do Injector control circuit Procedure 49. This involves testing the voltage on harness B53 from the ECU while the engine is running and accelerating suddenly to make sure it's between 11 and 14 volts. I did not perform this procedure yet just because it's a pain in the butt. My limited and lazy brain told me to connect a noid light and that would tell me if the ECU is firing this thing. So i connected the noid light and sure enough it's pulsing dimly at idle and brighter under load. I transferred the noid light to another injector and compared it and it looked exactly the same. At this point I'm perplexed because I don't know where to go from here.
Am I needing to go back to do the voltage test at PIN 14 of the B53 connector even thought he noid light test was good because I'm attempting to be lazy and skip an important step?
Is there something I should check on that I may not have done correctly when working with the AC compressor?
I read through every post i could on P0202. One post said it might be the CAS which I assume is the crank position sensor. I'm not getting that code so I haven't messed with it. One post gave some steps about testing resistance between Pin 14 on the B53 connector and Pin 2 on the injector but since I did the NOID light and the resistor I wasn't sure if that was redundant or not.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
