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Ordering megasquirt, need help!

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b00stedtalon2

15+ Year Contributor
1,084
621
Dec 19, 2005
Detroit, Michigan
Well I am ordering megasquirt tomorrow from DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products and wanted to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff with everything I need.

- MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3.0 - Unassembled Kit Part # MS230-K or should i get the one with SMD PCB3.57?
- GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Connector

The two obvious
- MegaSquirt Wiring Harness - 12 feet long
- B9 6' Male/Female Straight thru cable

And I already have a motorola 3 bar map sensor which I was told works good with MS.

Is there anything else I will need to make this work with my car? Or do you recommend something different or any thing else? Any input would be greatly appreciated. :)

-Scott
 
I highly suggest getting a stim kit, preferably the jimstim since you can simulate and test the 4g63 setup wheel. You can get it unassembled and solder it together.

You'll also need a knock filter if you're gonna use megasquirt to control timing. The knock filter can use the stock knock sensor. The one I'm using is the knocksense.
Engine knock detection and indication for all vehicles

If you have a decent soldering iron and have semi decent soldering skills, or want to have good soldering skills at the end of this, you can get it unassembled. It took me about 3 days, or around 10 to 12 hours of soldering everything. (jimstim kit and v3.0 board).

If I were to do it over again, I'd get it pre assembled, but then again, I'd have to modify the board still if I got the v3.0 assembled, and the v3.57 doesn't have a proto area where you can fab some extra circuits (like boost or the second opto isolator for the cam sensor).

I also got a stock ecu harness extension from field cn-15 from PerfectRun -Japanese performance car parts online store-
That way I didn't have to hack up my stock wiring as quite a few wires gets cut
 
Well I am ordering megasquirt tomorrow from DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products and wanted to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff with everything I need.

- MegaSquirt-II Engine Management System w/PCB3.0 - Unassembled Kit Part # MS230-K or should i get the one with SMD PCB3.57?
- GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Connector

The two obvious
- MegaSquirt Wiring Harness - 12 feet long
- B9 6' Male/Female Straight thru cable

And I already have a motorola 3 bar map sensor which I was told works good with MS.

Is there anything else I will need to make this work with my car? Or do you recommend something different or any thing else? Any input would be greatly appreciated. :)

-Scott


How much boost do you plan on running? I would recommend the map daddy 4 bar from them. Also it is much easier to run the gm coolant temp sensor vs the stock mitsu one. While the stock mitsu may be used, it can take a really long time to get to run right.

You should have asked this on WMDSM Scott. One of the best DSM megasquirters and the first one to run msII on a dsm is on there. He is on here too but I don't think he checks much.
 
I second the map daddy as it also has a second baro sensor for baro correction (climbing up and down mountains)
 
Also it is much easier to run the gm coolant temp sensor vs the stock mitsu one. While the stock mitsu may be used, it can take a really long time to get to run right.
I'm not sure if you saw the write up i did on swapping coolant temp sensors in the WiKi, But the GM and DSM sensor have almost the exact resistance vs. temperature values. What is it that makes the megasquirt harder to use with the factory mitsu one? I actually like the GM better, but stand alones recognize the stock mitsi sensor, and the mitsubishi ECU can understand the GM unit. I'm interested in hearing more about this. I was giving megasquirt some thought for a while, but the more i read about it, the more i'd rather just save more money and buy a name brand ECU

The main thing i like about it, is that it can understand the 420a's factory triggers, where a lot of ECU's are either hard to setup on that trigger system or you have to mount a hall effect on the damper pully ( they also sell a pully with magnet triggers in it for the 420a)
 
I'm not sure if you saw the write up i did on swapping coolant temp sensors in the WiKi, But the GM and DSM sensor have almost the exact resistance vs. temperature values. What is it that makes the megasquirt harder to use with the factory mitsu one? I actually like the GM better, but stand alones recognize the stock mitsi sensor, and the mitsubishi ECU can understand the GM unit. I'm interested in hearing more about this. I was giving megasquirt some thought for a while, but the more i read about it, the more i'd rather just save more money and buy a name brand ECU

The main thing i like about it, is that it can understand the 420a's factory triggers, where a lot of ECU's are either hard to setup on that trigger system or you have to mount a hall effect on the damper pully ( they also sell a pully with magnet triggers in it for the 420a)

"I prefer the GM temp sensors only because MS is precalibrated to them. To properly use the DSm sensor, you need to change the bias resistance on the MS and recalibrate it, which adds unnecessary complexity.

A GM coolant temp sensor threads RIGHT INTO the DSM CLT postition - the sensors look almost identical, but just have different resistance values." This is the response I got from Dieselgeek way back when I installed the m.s. I didn't know very much then, but I just went that route and I have never had a reason stick to a DSM sensor. It is so easy to just hook up the gm sensor and be done when you are setting up a standalone for the first time.

Again I know it can be done, but if you are going that far wouldn't you rather cut 2 wires and hook up a different pig tail? I have the therm file for the first M.s. powered DSM that used the stock sensor, and if anyone wants it I can probably get it to you.
 
I found this resistance value for the coolant sensor on the web when doing a google search for the 4g63 temp sensor. Seems to match what's in the manual.

16,200 ohm at -20'C (-4'F) 2,450 ohm at 20'C (68'F) 296 ohm at 80'C (176'F)
 
I found this resistance value for the coolant sensor on the web when doing a google search for the 4g63 temp sensor. Seems to match what's in the manual.

16,200 ohm at -20'C (-4'F) 2,450 ohm at 20'C (68'F) 296 ohm at 80'C (176'F)

I am just going off what I have been told by one of the biggest contributors to M.s. powered DSM's. If it works that well, then I retract my statement. And good to hear.
 
Hmm those #'s are odd, my 2g stocker and my gm sensors have the same resistance values at the
same basic steps at room temps, although they do dffer slightly. I've seen a DSM ecu running GM sensors and all stand alones that use that GM sensor can understand the factory mitsu sensor.

I wonder if 1g's were different? I've only done the GM in a mitsu ECU on 2g cars.

I also wonder if some GM sensors look the same but have different value, and what year those mitsu specs are from and if it was teh guage sensor or ECU sensor or even the thrd one that's use for teh AC i think.
 
Hmm those #'s are odd, my 2g stocker and my gm sensors have the same resistance values at the
same basic steps at room temps, although they do dffer slightly. I've seen a DSM ecu running GM sensors and all stand alones that use that GM sensor can understand the factory mitsu sensor.

I wonder if 1g's were different? I've only done the GM in a mitsu ECU on 2g cars.

I also wonder if some GM sensors look the same but have different value, and what year those mitsu specs are from and if it was teh guage sensor or ECU sensor or even the thrd one that's use for teh AC i think.

Like I said, I didn't get too specific with him because I didn't know very much back then. I still don't know shit about wiring and hate it with a passion :) But I will always use gm coolant temp sensors on my car, but that is mainly because I am just doing a dedicated wiring harness and not using anything from the factory. The gm pigtail is really easy to get at napa too so that is always nice.
 
Hmm those #'s are odd, my 2g stocker and my gm sensors have the same resistance values at the
same basic steps at room temps, although they do dffer slightly. I've seen a DSM ecu running GM sensors and all stand alones that use that GM sensor can understand the factory mitsu sensor.

I wonder if 1g's were different? I've only done the GM in a mitsu ECU on 2g cars.

I also wonder if some GM sensors look the same but have different value, and what year those mitsu specs are from and if it was teh guage sensor or ECU sensor or even the thrd one that's use for teh AC i think.

The dsm service manual lists two of the three resistance values. It's pretty common for a manufacturer to use the same sensor for all their cars. I actually found the value from this url
TurboClub.com 4G63BT Mitsubishi Turbo Engine - Home for Turbocharged Car Owners WorldWide since 1996 including JDM Imports.

The resistance curve is very close to the GM sensor actually. I'll have to check again how off the resistance is, but it's off by a little bit only.
 
I thought the 12 foot harness was obvious as well. If you plan on splicing in to the stock harness at the ecu location get the shorter harness though. That was my original plan.

I see in your sig Drag Talon so I guess you will be re-wiring the entire harness. I would kill for a write up on this.

Get the Jimstim. The stim I have is almost useless once you modify the board for the 4g63 spark and fuel.
 
You'll also need a knock filter if you're gonna use megasquirt to control timing. The knock filter can use the stock knock sensor. The one I'm using is the knocksense.

I run without a knock sensor. There are other ways to tune without the need for the knock sensor and knock module so isn't a necessary part to have megasquirt control timing. I do use a knock sensor on a different megasquirt setup, but not my Talon. Just didn't want anyone to think you need that part for megasquirt to function.
 
I run without a knock sensor. There are other ways to tune without the need for the knock sensor and knock module so isn't a necessary part to have megasquirt control timing. I do use a knock sensor on a different megasquirt setup, but not my Talon. Just didn't want anyone to think you need that part for megasquirt to function.

Agreed. Also what I have done in the past is leave the stock ecu hooked up and used my logger to monitor knock that way. Not the best but it worked.
 
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