The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Oil pump failure.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mielo5280

5+ Year Contributor
42
12
Aug 29, 2019
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
What started with my timing belt starting to shred itself has turned into so much more. Something in my gut told me to pull the motor cause something was wrong, and I’m glad i did. Pulled the oil pump to find the drive gear was so scored it left material in the front case. The balance shaft delete was an old balance shaft cut off and welded, that had some wear marks, but nothing like the drive gear. The motor never lost oil pressure as far as my Glowshift oil pressure gauge has showed as well.

I dug more and started to check piston 1 and 4 bearings and this is what I found. Both sides of the rod bearings in both cylinders are pretty the same way. The pictures attached are from cylinder 1. I noticed the slightest bit of heat marks on the crank. The cylinder 1 rod cap was hard to get off compared to cylinder 4s.

Realistically, what are my options. Plastigauge, and send it with new bearings, or pull it completely apart and get everything cleaned and machined? It has an eagle crank, eagle rods, and JE pistons. Motor was bought second hand from Performance Partout but bearings weren’t like this before it was installed in my car. I’m about ready to just send the rotating assembly to the machine shop with the original block from the car to get put together. But I’m to broke for that at the moment.

I attached the pictures from the belt being shredded to how it sits now. None of this explains why my belt was being thrashed, but I’m glad I dug into the motor. Seems I caught things before it decided to window the block.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Do everything over and right take your time, if the funds arent there , what are your choices, Pull it part and check everything over.
 
Did some plastiguage measurements. Crank is almost out of spec on the rod bearings with 1mm over bearings. Pulled the crank out and took a look at the mains. Motor is being completely disassembled and being sent to machine shop.

The motor is a 2.3L build using a 100mm crank and JE stroker pistons P/N: JEP 270666. I found a 4g64 crank cleaned, polished, and checked with specs. Rods will be checked and aligned to the new crank. Block looks good and can hopefully be honed out and doesn’t need bored. In the off chance it needs bored out, should I find pistons that can fit the new bore, or use this spare virgin block to get bored to match the pistons.
 
Might be a tensioner going bad. I bought a long block from the yard that had a snapped timing belt. It was because the bearing in the tensioner pulley locked up. The belt took a lot of damage before it snapped.

Also, oil makes the belt more prone to slipping and cracking, and even swelling if it's high mileage oil. I see some drippage on his timing components so I'm sure it's not helping.
 
What do you think is shredding the timing belt?
I guess that's most likely caused by the oil pump drive gear shaft and the sprocket being not sitting straight due to internal damage. The timing belt was distorted/sliding toward outside at the oil pump sprocket and kept being stressed by oil pump sprocket rib.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top