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Spyder Oil Priming motor question

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and1chewy

10+ Year Contributor
176
0
Nov 25, 2009
Honeybrook, Pennsylvania
Hi i have just rebiuilt and have almost put back together a 7 bolt turbo for my eclipse spyder. I had read a few post about priming the motor and have gotten that there is a couple ways to do this one being remove the coil plug and crank the motor til u get pressure (not the best way ive read but affective) and turning the oil pump with a drill (most affective i take) since i have the motor out and easy access to the oil pump i would chose to spin the oil pump. My question is how fast should the oil pump be spun? I am using an air drill should i go full bore or will i burn out the oil pump (brand new by the way)? Also how long should i go at one shot and how long should it take for the oil for get to the head? Like i said this is a complete rebuild so it is bone dry top to bottom. Ive seen this done on big blocks and seen the oil coming up though the head but never a little 4 banger. The little bit ive ran it hasnt pushed any oil through the filter, will it?

This should also be spun clockwise i assume..........just trying to cover all my bases in one post
 
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Start at a medium speed and spin clockwise. Make sure the timing belt is off!! Also make sure you packed the oil pump REALLY well. This shouldn't take more than 30 seconds to see oil at the head. Have a buddy check an oil pressure gauge too if you can. Also this is a good time to check for leaks!
 
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Well, I'm not sure how you would prime the engine with a drill on a 4g63. That's more of a 'pull the distributor and prime the oil pump' thing. The easiest way would be to pull the spark plugs and crank it. The other MORE important this is to make sure the oil pump gears are packed with grease or moly based assembly lube. This is probably what they meant by priming. If you don't have the gears packed they won't draw the oil up from the pan and you won't get oil... I used assembly lube since I bought a huge tube and had plenty left over. The moly stuff won't hurt anything and will be flushed with the first oil change (starts dissolving in oil, not disappears completely) but it's thick enough to protect parts until the oil get there. Just like a good assembly lube should!

So, pull the cover off the pump and pack that entire area with either lube or grease, you really can't get too much in there but you still want the cover to bolt back on.

On a side note, make sure you put a little oil in the turbo's center cartridge as well, you don't want the galling either.
 
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i had read on here somewhere that you can crank the oil pump pully with a drill and a socket apparently you dont think this can be done?i spun it for about 15-20 secs or at least it felt like a lil bit of time but you know how it is when your waiting for something it fees like its taking forever. but i can check to see if i packed the gears i really dont remember i put the pump on a couple months ago.........could be a minor mishap but an easy check at this point of the build.

i talked to the guy whos helping me with the build and he said he dont remember us backing the oil pump gear so i guess that could be a reason im getting no oil pressure.........hopefully.:confused: at least the engine isnt in the car. :hellyeah:
 
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Yes, for a new motor, you should prime the oil pump by packing it with grease/lube and spinning the pulley on the oil pump. You SHOULD see oil pressure fairly quickly. Make sure all oil ports are closed up. I had a similar issue and couldn't figure it out for the longest time until I realized I had no oil squirters!! D'OH! The oil would make it's way up the block, but then just fall back into the pan where the huge holes for the oil squirters were, haha.
 
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DSM1G90 said:
Check the link below on this topic. - DSM

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/286487-how-prime-oil-pump-timing-components-already-installed.html
Click to expand...

Yes, this method also works as I've done it with the motor already in the car!

But it appears as though this guy has the motor out of the car without the timing stuff on. At this point I'd recommend spinning the oil pump method. This way you are certain that the pump will be able to pick up the oil and send it where it needs to go!
 
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I was assuming that he already had the timing belt on... Yeah if it's off you can easily spin it and I'd recommend not going about ~6,000rpm on your air wrench (hopefully not an impact) since your engine probably won't spin much faster than that unless you've upgraded your valvetrain parts. I'd ramp it up gradually though, not just slam it up to 6k in case there's a problem with your pick-up or a missing galley plug.
 
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DSM1G90 said:
Did you see the one pic with the cam sprocket cover in it's place?

Did you see the numerous pics with Alternator and the A/C belts around the crank pulley?

It's all assembled.
Click to expand...

Sorry, pictures get blocked on my work PC, so no I did not see them.

If timing belt is on, then I agree with DSM1G90's method. You can pick up a pump at AutoZone for like $10 or less I believe. Then it just screws onto your oil bottle.
 
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Haha its cool man. Yea, it sucks, but you get used to it. The worst is situations like this where it appears that there just is no picture to me, but to everyone else there is a picture and I look like the tool!

Anyway, and1chewy, please post back up soon to let us know how it goes.
 
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Not meaning to thread-jack...

But I'm currently putting my engine back together, changed pistons rings and whatnot... so the engine in dry.

>_> I take it that you MUST prime after a teardown? This is my first, obviously.
 
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TuRBoTaLooN said:
Short answer: YES
Click to expand...

Lmfao. xD Thanks!!

I'll be the first to admit when I don't know something. And since you guys were on the subject, there was no reason to open an aditional thread.

;3 And I take it that I'll be using the link posted below and do this with the oil pressure sender/nipple trick.
 
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all i did with mine, before firing it up for the first time (rebuild) is cranked it over till the turbo return line started dripping, bolted it back up, put the plug and wires back on, put the fuse in, and it started on the 3rd try and running strong still.
 
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DSM1G90 said:
Did you see the one pic with the cam sprocket cover in it's place?

Did you see the numerous pics with Alternator and the A/C belts around the crank pulley?

It's all assembled.
Click to expand...

I don't see any pics at all in THIS thread and I'm at home so no pic blocking here. Are you talking about the write-up or and1chewy's current status?!?
 
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TuRBoTaLooN said:
Yes, for a new motor, you should prime the oil pump by packing it with grease/lube and spinning the pulley on the oil pump. You SHOULD see oil pressure fairly quickly. Make sure all oil ports are closed up. I had a similar issue and couldn't figure it out for the longest time until I realized I had no oil squirters!! D'OH! The oil would make it's way up the block, but then just fall back into the pan where the huge holes for the oil squirters were, haha.
Click to expand...

i am in the process of ripping the pump back off sorry have 2 jobs and only lil time at interval........ what port hole are we talking about? sorry did most of my rebuild by a chiltons manual and it pretty much said take the old oil pump off and put a new one on real descriptive :D
 
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when you rebuilt you should have used a high grade assemlby lube and that will prevent any scoring of anything when you first turn the motor over. I leave the spark plugs out and use a half inch drive electric drill and turn the crank bolt at about 800 or so rpms for about one minute. then i take the oil filler cap off and make sure there is signs of fresh oil in the head. replace the cap and spark plugs and start the engine!!! this is the easiest way that ive found to prime the oil system in a fresh rebiuld. if you use this method you need to make sure you have used a good assemlby lube!!!!
 
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i used assembly lube on all the bearing (crank and main and such) just dont the pump gears.........so i do have the stuff just didnt use it there........ and ## saying turn the crank pully not the oil pump pully? not sure hwo thats gonna flow oil without my timing belt installed?!
 
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Yeah!!! Now we know for sure that you haven't installed the timing belt yet. You can either pack it full of grease/lube and prime it by driving the oil pump with your drill or manually pump it up as described in the other thread that was mentioned. OR, you can wait until after you install the timing belt, make sure your oil pump is packed, open up the plug holes and crank away until you see oil pressure on a quality gauge. Actually, no matter which method you use, you should pump until you see pressure (except the manual pump through the oil filter housing of course). Since the t-belt is off, I'd say spin the pump so you can check for leaks. Now would also be the time to decide if you're going to keep the balance shafts or toss them since you'll be pulling it down to the oil pump anyway.
 
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Hahaha, I checked this thread at home now and see that there are in fact NO pictures of the engine in this thread.

Anyway, since the tbelt is not on, spin the oil pump gear after you pack it (and pack it GOOD!!!) and re-install it. Check for leaks and make sure you get pressure, then finish assembly and best of luck!
 
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i have packed the pump gear with assembly lube and have it all back together getting ready to spin the pump pully i also have the valve cover gasket off so i should be able to see oil coming up to the head correct? i do have the spark plugs out if thats what the plugs are being referred to in some of the comments? i have eliminated the balance shafts already with oem parts as advised by the forums :thumb:

PUMPS IN OIL IS SQUIRTING AND COMING UP THROUGH THE HEAD....THANKS TO EVERYONE :D:thumb:
 
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