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Oil pressure issues, oil pump?

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Breezio69

10+ Year Contributor
1,109
20
Mar 5, 2012
SLC, Utah
My oil pressure over the last couple days has been twitching at idle going from 11-12 psi to around 8 then back up. Drove home from work tonight and got off the freeway (which ran all good, 55-60 psi) then I hit the light at the bottom and got out of gear and it dropped to 3-4 psi while at idle, ~900rpm +/-. I gave a slight blip of the throttle to like 1200 and it returned to normal pressure then dropped at the next light again... drove normal after for about the next 1/2 mile to my place.

Oil pump?#Kind of freaking out, this is my only transportation at the moment

Also to note, oil is full. And any other driving the pressure is fine and normal for the rpm range, this issue is when I go back to neutral.
 
Yes indeed, where are you getting these numbers from? Stock gauge or aftermarket? Electric or mechanical? Also, please remember that the oil pump is only half the reason that gives you oil pressure, the half that's gonna give oil pressure is a healthy motor, good tight bearing tolerance's are where you truly gain good oil pressure
 
About to roll 193k, when the problem started I actually put some 20w-50 in it. I drained about a full quart out and topped it off with it to see if the little bit heavier weight would bump it up a little and now its dropping to 3-4psi like I was saying. But its not all the time.

Should I try a full change to 20w-50 or do you think I'd be wasting my time and $ ?

The majority of the oil now is 10w-30
 
Fml, ill just try to go get my jeep registered this friday and pull motor. Needs a timing belt at 195k anyways so it will just make my life easier...

Commence the fighting with the gf over a vehicle :notgood:

Check/replace the oil pressure spring in the OFH, it could be weak, or broken. Also the oil pressure relief plunger may be staying cracked open or gaulled where it will not fully close at idle

Is the spring behind the front or rear bolt on the housing? I've never torn one apart and google was useless as to any how to's.
 
The spring (bolt) in on the bottom of the oil pump cover. With 193k on it I'd say its smoked. Your bearing clearances I'm sure are at its limits
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tried looking through the manual for minimal pressure specs but this is the only thing I could find for checking the oil pump.
 

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Ok, I will see if I can source a spring and plunger locally and swap that out and change the oil. I think ill try 50/50 with 10w30 and 20w50. Run it for a day and see what happens.

I won't be able to do any work till later today but ill try it and see what happens. If anything else there's a 7 bolt for sale locally right now for $500 running...
 
Mine did the same thing, sadly. One day I noticed the oil like flicker a few times and thats when I noticed the oil pressure was wonky. It had great pressure when the car was cold, but once it got warm, I had less than 10psi at idle (BSE too). I knew the motor was tired and needed a rebuild, but that was the straw the broke its back. When I pulled the motor to have it rebuilt, that crank was already trashed.

Best of luck! 193k is a pretty long life! I'd say its time to give her a break and freshen her up!
 
Mine did the same thing, sadly. One day I noticed the oil like flicker a few times and thats when I noticed the oil pressure was wonky. It had great pressure when the car was cold, but once it got warm, I had less than 10psi at idle (BSE too). I knew the motor was tired and needed a rebuild, but that was the straw the broke its back. When I pulled the motor to have it rebuilt, that crank was already trashed.

Best of luck! 193k is a pretty long life! I'd say its time to give her a break and freshen her up!

Yeah, Ive already come to grips with what needs to happen. The real problem is telling my dad I need to take up a space in his garage for a bit to go through it. I cant work on my vehicle at my complex, so I have to go to his place to do anything.... even change my oil. Its annoying.

But im already thinking of how I can tear it down and just bring the block/head to my place to work on it.


And as far as the 193k, I was only 17k of that.... somebody else had fun.

Just as something to double check, the spring and plunger mentioned above, anybody know where to source one? Nowhere local even has an oil filter housing listed as a replacement part.

Thanks again for the bad news everybody!!! :thumb: (just kidding)
 
Yeah that spring from jnz was the only thing I found on my own, otherwise nothing.

The worst part about this whole thing is compression tests and everything have come back great a little bit ago, I started a parts pile to up the boost... have $600 in parts sitting in my closet that ive been buying over the last two months. Now this.

Just a small list I can think of and have looked into today has me about $1, 500+ if I smoked the crank.

Thinking about just cutting my losses and selling it for a grand. The cars already paid for itself by allowing me to not drive my gas hog jeep for a year... we'll see

I can probably pull what aftermarket stuff I have in the car and replace with oem stuff for cheap and still get some $ back from that.... no need to have a $250 tial bov on a car that doesn't run right, right? Haha



BUT! Honestly the first thing I'm going to do is go get a direct mount oil pressure gauge and take my sending unit out to double check it. It is a glowshift china part after all... I'm still confident I'm screwed though :)
 
Just undo the plug, look at the spring and plunger, if they look ok, install the plunger, the spring "Part store" flat washer then the plug.

This is a band aid repair, but it should help some untill you can do a decent build

Watch your oil pressure, you may need a 2nd washer if it is still low, and help keep from taking out the rod bearings.
 
I like that suggestion ^^^ really all I need right now is to limp it to work and back till I get paid friday. I have my jeep to drive but I have to pay back registration (rebuilt it most of last year and its past registration again this year) so that alone is another $300 or so. Basically its just a big shit show over here, haha.

After the jeep is registered I can take all the time in the world to diagnose it or sell it off.

I've already contacted a machine shop as well to get rough estimates on some labor for the block. If its down its at least getting a hone/rings and all that jazz. Looking at about $200 for what he called, "a block that looks better than new". That's honed, cleaned, tanked. If the crank is involved for any work its anywhere from $300+ for a resurface and the block work.

Not as bad as I thought... I spent more on machine work for my quad to tell you truth.

Also, this guy was recommended by the shop that did my quad. Top notch work on that so I trust their opinion on this other guy.

Do those prices seem reasonable compaired to around the country? They surprised me.




******** update********

Went over and did a full oil change, although my last one was less than 1, 500 miles ago. Pulled apart the ofh, shimmed the spring, cleaned my sender, filled 50/50 with 10w30 and 20w50.

After a full warm up and drive she was rock steady at 14psi at idle. So ill give it a few days and see what's going on before I make plans to pull it.

Here's a couple pics of the fun... btw, told yall it was bout to turn 193, hahaha

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