oil pan gasket replacement

[talonrider95]

my oil pan gasket is leaking and i need to replace it. If anyone could give me tips on how to go about doing this. My main queary is the proper sealent that i would use in order to do a proper fix. Any imput is appreciated.
Thank you,

 

[Wooh]

i am also curious. When I was doing my swap, I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker. I followed the directions 100%, but when I put the motor in the car, the oil pan still has leaks. I tightened the bolts a little more but it still drips.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[Slipstream]

I recently did this myself and found that FELPRO made an aftermarket gasket for the oil pan. I rubbed it down with a little RTV and it hasn't leaked since. Check your local parts house (not the dealer) for a gasket...it'll make your life a lot easier.

 

[Strm Trpr]

There isn't a gasket for the oil pan block interface... Unless there's an aftermarket gasket...
I used the Mitsu Gasket Maker stuff, and it hasn't dripped a drop since.
You just have to be sure to go completely around each bolt hole and try to use a nice continuous bead of RTV.....

 

[FourG63GST]

I did mine last week. You will need to drop the downpipe and crossmember (make sure you have the motor supported with a jack) and then take out all the bolts holding the oilpan to the block. Make sure you clean off the surface of the oilpan. Youll need to get the silicone and the hard gasket material off. I got the old gasket material off with a razor blade and then cleaned it all up with air powered wire brush. Cleaned it in solvent tank and dried it out and put it back on with RTV alone. Dont need too much, but make sure its not too little. Put the bolts back snug. Not to tight or you will regret it later. Took me about 2.5 hours to do. Have fun.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Well said.....
I did a BSE and new T-Belt when I did mine, everything was torn apart.
Make sure and get a new DP gasket, and oil return line gasket and 2 new screws and aluminum crush washers for that.
Use a stiff putty knife to pry the pan away from the block.
Please don't use a screw driver, you'll bend the crap out of your Oil Pan.
You may need to use a hammer with that putty knife, just work your way around the pan.
You'll also have to remove the flywheel access panel.

To clean the block and oil pan, I used brand new 3/4" wide wood chisel.
Just make sure there are no knicks in the leading edge of the chisel.
Then a green scotch brite pad worked for the remaining stuff.

 

[FourG63GST]

For the crossmember, it has the mm on it, so to take it off you would need to take off the 3 or 4 17mm bolts in the back(if i remember correctly), the two in the front, and then take the slider bolt from the MM.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Yeah, you're probably right, but like I said I was holding my motor with a jack anyway, cuz I did the BSE and T-Belt job at the same time....
I remember my cross member just floating there with the 2 front 17mm screws loosened about 1.5"....
The rear portion of the CM was hangin from the rear roll stopper mount....
No, that's not right the rear roll stopper is connected to the transaxle....

You definitely want to drop your DP....

To the guy that posted this question, just do what the guy above me said....

Out...

 

[talonrider95]

thanks guys im gonna give it a shot

 

[Strm Trpr]

I changed my oil last night, and I verified that there is no need to remove the cross member.....

 

[ivatu]

i need to know where i can find the gasket or should i use some sort of silicone and also if i can use silicone wich brand?

 

[BrokenTsi]

Use RTV ultra grey. I never use a gasket. Just a good amount of rtv will do. You can find a tube of it at autozone.

 

[djmixerx]

Sorry to say but Honda has one of the best RTV's out there. When capped off it doesnt dry out like the other ones either. Its called Honda bond and I think its about 8-12 dollars. I put it on my oil pan and not one leak.

 

[turboking15]

ive always used the mopar gen-2 i can get a tube of it from the local dodge dealership for like 5 bucks. this stuff is awesome and i swear by it.

 

[KazooGS-T]

You can get the gasket from any parts store. I put a gasket on mine when I put the built motor in and it hasn't leaked a single drop; no rtv used.

 

[GSpikeX]

I've also used the RTV ultra grey it's cheap, easy and available almost anywhere

 

[andy4g63]

On turbo cars, there is no gasket at all. There is no Mitsu part# for oil pan gasket. Your case is a little different, but I would suggest no gasket and use THE RIGHT STUFF /that is the nams of it/. It is like black RTV silicone, but this thing does not get hard and seals awesome. I've allways had excellent results with it.

 

[ivatu]

thanks everybody

 

[1992awdlaser]

Agreed about the rtv. I have used rtv with no gasket on tons of oil pans when I was a mechanic without any leaking issues.

 

[greddyturbo19]

go to autozone and get a gasket its like 11 dollors thats where i got mine when i did my oil pan

 

[justinhill98gst]

Ok i was told to use the mitsu silicon because it stronger then normal silicon? But i called mitsu up today and they want 50$ dollers for silicon WTF, will i be ok using hi temp silicon on the oil pan with out worrying of it leaking?

 

[snowborder714]

I use Right Stuff for Imports for all my oil pan sealing jobs. A lot of people on here use this stuff (or just the regular Right Stuff). I like it more than RTV.

 

[99gst_racer]

Silver RTV has also worked very well for me.

 

[nwedlake]

I think you will be fine with regular high temp rtv in combo with a gasket. I have never had problems with that.

 

[Doubleot]

I've used high temp before with rtv, also used the right stuff with a gasket combo as well both worked good so either way I think you would be fine.