Oil Leak Issues

[swilliams1005]

Well i have finally found some time to start working on the money pit again, need some help with this oil leak problem. As of right now the turbo oil return line at the pan is leaking and leaves about a foot in diameter puddle under the car, and when you are driving and stop for the evening there is 3 drops/puddles on the drivers side directly behind the wheel, and it is also covering the wheel well. So after removing the timing cover to check for leaks i see oil, but there is none on the belt itself and all bolts are tight. The oil only goes up to the top of the timing belt tentioner. This is my theory, is that there is so much oil coming from the line it is going around the oil pan and creeping behind the cover and keeping it wet along with all the oil on the fender well and on the ground. I really want to get this thing fixed soon. I have attached some pictures so everyone can make judgement. On the last picture of the timing cover if you look to the right side there is a dy line and a oil line, this is what makes me think that the turbo oil return line is what the main problem is.

 

[luv2rallye]

Not your oil leak problem but why is your CPS rubbing against the sensing blade? And the sensing blade shows black marks rubbing against something? Does your crank have too much end play (> .0098")?

 

[spyderdrifter]

I suggest replacing all the seals and gaskets. Check to make sure there's no warpage either, as well as all the fittings on your feed & return lines. Check your oil filter housing too. Are there oil leaks anywhere else on your engine?

 

[serviceguy]

Is it just me or that freeze plug is on backward? I mention that because oil seem to be pooling at its bottom.

 

[swilliams1005]

Not your oil leak problem but why is your CPS rubbing against the sensing blade? And the sensing blade shows black marks rubbing against something? Does your crank have too much end play (> .0098")?

It was like that before i rebuilt the motor, whos knows what the previous owners did?

I suggest replacing all the seals and gaskets. Check to make sure there's no warpage either, as well as all the fittings on your feed & return lines. Check your oil filter housing too. Are there oil leaks anywhere else on your engine?

No, the only places are at the turbo return line and somewhere in that area of the timing side of the motor. My goal is to fix the oil return line first, and clean the timing side of the motor and run it without the timing covers to hopefully see where it is coming from, i am hoping the oil return line is the main problem with oil running around the oil pan and getting inside the timing cover. I have ordered the housing o-ring to replace that also.

Is it just me or that freeze plug is on backward? I mention that because oil seem to be pooling at its bottom.

I am really not sure if it is or not i was going by what i have seen on other balance shaft removals.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Is it just me or that freeze plug is on backward? I mention that because oil seem to be pooling at its bottom.

I was thinking that too. Didn't notice right off, but knew it didn't look right.

 

[swilliams1005]

I was thinking that too. Didn't notice right off, but knew it didn't look right.

And i am assuming that the only way to remove and switch side is to tear it apart,

 

[spyderdrifter]

Pretty much, and that probably means getting a new freeze plug.

When you run without the timing cover, if you drive it, be careful of road debris.

 

[gprix1]

Is it just me or that freeze plug is on backward? I mention that because oil seem to be pooling at its bottom.

It's also pooling on the bolt and pivot to the right of it so I think it's just coming from above. Probaly just the cam seals or the valve cover gasket.
I suggest replacing all the seals, cams, oil pump, front main, and valve cover/spark plug gaskets. I always do all the seals and clean everything spotless when I do a timing belt job.
Also, my girlfriends GSX was leaking like that and turned out she also had a cracked valve cover so be sure to inspect yours real good when your replacing the gasket.

As for your oil return line, I don't know for sure why yours is leaking but I've found the most common place for leakage is from the crush washers. You pretty much need new crush washers any time you install it to the oil pan. If you re-use them, they usually will leak. Order new crush washers as well while your getting your seals, they are only like $.50 or something like that.
Although a little pricey, I like the MAP oil ruturn line for the simple fact that once it's installed, I never have to deal with gaskets any more. If I need to remove the turbo, I just unscrew the AN fitting.. sooooo much nicer to deal with.

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[swilliams1005]

Pretty much, and that probably means getting a new freeze plug.

When you run without the timing cover, if you drive it, be careful of road debris.

Thats not what i wanted to hear , Oh yeah it dont take long to leak might just run it in the driveway at idle to see first before hitting the road.

It's also pooling on the bolt and pivot to the right of it so I think it's just coming from above. Probaly just the cam seals or the valve cover gasket.
I suggest replacing all the seals, cams, oil pump, front main, and valve cover/spark plug gaskets. I always do all the seals and clean everything spotless when I do a timing belt job.

Thats the thing its a fresh rebuild with less than 600 miles on it and nothing is leaking above the freeze plug, thats why it is so strange to me, oh well guess i will have to see once i get it cleaned up.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Thats not what i wanted to hear , Oh yeah it dont take long to leak might just run it in the driveway at idle to see first before hitting the road.

Yeah, I wouldn't want to hear it either, been there before with other problems. Go ahead and tinker with your return line first, as well as the crush washers that were mentioned, clean it up, then go from there. Start off with that since it doesn't cost much. Hopefully that's the only problem, aside from that freeze plug. If it's not leaking, you may be able to get away with it being backward. So long as you remember to swap it the next time you tear down your engine.

 

[swilliams1005]

Keeping my fingers crossed its just the oil return line!! Thanks for the help so far .

 

[bryanwheat]

I would get a can of brake clean and spray it down real good. Than from there start the car with the cover off and watch for it to leak. You shouldn't need to drive the car to make it leak. Make sure that you put the crank pulley on before you run it because that is what keeps the belt from walking off the crank sprocket. Also don't run it very long without the water pump/alternator belt in place.

 

[dudeX]

I had a leak with my turbo oil return and it turned out to be the bolts. Instead of using a bolt with washers just use a flanged one. That was why mine was leaking and that stopped it, hope that helps.

 

[bryanwheat]

I had a leak with my turbo oil return and it turned out to be the bolts. Instead of using a bolt with washers just use a flanged one. That was why mine was leaking and that stopped it, hope that helps.

IF you use the correct bolts with the proper crush washers than it will seal up perfectly fine. Most people have a problem when they use the wrong bolts, the correct bolts without crush washers, or a bolt with a lock washer.

 

[deviousgst]

Ya that freeze plug looks backwards and oil leaking.i dont mean hi-jack this thread, but just a real quick question about that freeze plug, what freeze plug is that? Im in need of one also for my bsek, i lost the plug that came with my kit. And we have alot of machine shops here that carry freeze plugs in stock. I just dont know what size to get. Any one know? Thanks and sorry again.

 

[swilliams1005]

Ya that freeze plug looks backwards and oil leaking.i dont mean hi-jack this thread, but just a real quick question about that freeze plug, what freeze plug is that? Im in need of one also for my bsek, i lost the plug that came with my kit. And we have alot of machine shops here that carry freeze plugs in stock. I just dont know what size to get. Any one know? Thanks and sorry again.

I dont know either, i am assuming its just a normal block freeze plug, guess you will have to measure the hole which is what im going to have to do if the oil is leaving from there i will know tonight.

 

[green97gstspyder]

I had a leak at that freeze plug before but because i had some one do a crappy bs removal. If the leak is coming from there it wont leak at idle only when revving the engine up or driving.

 

[swilliams1005]

If the leak is coming from there it wont leak at idle only when revving the engine up or driving.

Will keep that in mind, Thanks

Ok guys, So using all OEM Parts i have replaced the oil filter housing o-ring(the old one was flattened prob. beyond sealing), and the bolts, washers, and gasket for the oil return line for the turbo at the oil pan, also tightened a loose hose clamp going to the oil filter housing so I then cranked the car and watched the timing area while a friend of mine throttle the car at high rpm intervals and nothing was leaking. But i'm still keeping my fingers crossed when i get it back together and put some strain on the engine going down the road to see what happens. Thanks for all the help!!

 

[swilliams1005]

Well it is leaking oil again after only driving 5 miles and minimal strain, the oil return is not leaking which is a plus. From best i can tell the oil is coming from the center of the crank area around the oil pan, so i guess i will take the pan off and reseal it and go from there before removing timing cover again.

 

[deviousgst]

Did you replace the front main seal?..
Is the castle plug torque to spec?

 

[swilliams1005]

Did you replace the front main seal?..
Is the castle plug torque to spec?

Did not replace front main seal being it is new with less than 1000 miles on it, and the castle plug was tight and to spec. I guess it couldn't hurt to replace the front main to be on the safe side.

 

[swilliams1005]

Just giving a update, i know its been awhile since my last post on this, but before i could fix the oil leak the engine decided it wanted to crank walk at 924 miles so i had to replace the crank bearings and guess what its still leaking oil . I currently have the car forsale, I no longer have the time or a place to work on the car and i am currently trying to buy a new house with a garage, if i dont sale the car before i move, then i will hopefully have time to diagnose the leak. But here is the add if anyone is interested in it.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST