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o2 housing install help??

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rixcidia

15+ Year Contributor
280
0
Dec 5, 2007
Somewhere in BC,
Hey guys I hope this makes sense but I have an issue with my o2 housing for my 2g eclipse I'm trying to install my evo I 16g turbo and wanna use the o2 housing that came with that turbo I notice the o2 sensor is in a different location then the 2g version but my question is how do I bolt the o2 housing to the down pipe I see on the o2 house on the 2.5 exhaust end there are 2 threaded holes and my down pipe has 2 house with no threads am I sapossed to use studs or bolts for the 2.5 o2 housing end to work on my 2g??
 
I would use studs in the o2 housing. Makes installation and removal easier. Doing it with a bolt you risk breaking it on future removal. With all the heat and moister corrosion is inevitable.
 
Hey thanks for your reply What kind of studs would I need and could they be bought in any hardware store ?
 
I would use studs in the o2 housing. Makes installation and removal easier. Doing it with a bolt you risk breaking it on future removal. With all the heat and moister corrosion is inevitable.

Use a little anti-seize when putting everything back together, you wont regret it.
 
Ok thanks for the info guys I'll pick some up tomorrow :). And the anti seize that's at any automotive store?
 
Right on I'll look out for that thanks so much I just can't wait to have this car on the road again :)

Wow what bad luck I have I brought the o2 housing and no body has the stud bolts I need they say the 12 is right for size but the 1.25 does not seam to thread in my housing I think it's a different thread they even tryed 1.25 and 1.5 metric and no go anyone know what the proper thred I need and where I can order a 12m stud from?
 
Here's a picture of a bolt from my old stock o2 exhaust housing that threads in perfect on the new housing were the studs are sapossed to go but I'm not sure what style this bolt is??

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Rix,
 

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That's a metric bolt hence the 8.8 grade and looks to be fine 1.25. Just get a 12mm x 1.25mm tap from Ace, TrueValue whatever, should run you less than $8 to clean up the threads and be able to fit a new 12 x 1.25 thread great. If you can't find a stud, just get a long enough bolt
 
Perfect thanks and using two bolts instead of studs will be fine ?? Should I use lock tight on the bolts ? Or will it be secure enough?
 
Split lock washer. I doubt loctite will hang around after a few heat cycles

Another way is buy the long enough bolt which is all the way threaded, cut the head off, taper the end so a nut can easily thread on and there ya go, a stud! You would need the corresponding 2 nuts, two flat washers, and two lock washers
 
That's true thanks a lot thats what I'll do I'll try and find a long enough bolt and drive it into the housing then cut it down to size with a grinder :)
 
For ease of dissassembly,

Put anti seize on only one end of the stud, that is, which one you want to come loose more easily. Example, anti seize on the stud which the nut threads onto will yield only the nut to come loose while the stud stays put in the 02 housing
 
Ok perfect ill use anti seize on the nut part of the stud and I'll use lock tight on the stud end that goes into the housing if it helps thanks so much :)

So I found the bolts but they only had one length and are as small in length as the one in the picture I hope when I grind the head off this bolt there will be enough thread left for the nut to catch the bolt.

Rix,
 
You can measure it first to be sure, if both the flanges look the same thickness, measure one, times by two and add the thickness of the nut + washer + split = minimum length of bolt.

If no go (I've run into this problem that hardware stores don't carry long metrics) you might have to surrender to the SAE system or at least until you can order some good metric bolts from fastenal.com

Find some SAE bolts long enough that fit inside the 02 housing threads and use nuts. That is the way my setup was for a while with the 2G housing and it honestly isn't too bad for disassembly
 
Thanks for your reply but when you say SAE system bolts what do you mean I'm not sure on what those are?
 
Sorry I wasn't paying attention

What other main thread systems do they go by other there? We have metric and SAE (ex 1/4in x 20tpi) threads mainly

Excuse my lack of experience with other countries, I'm still pretty young :shhh:

*Wow I'm just screwing up today. I'm not 100% positive but SAE is either Society of Automotive Engineers or Standard American Equivalent
 
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Haha that's ok Its no prob we all have those days , I did not even know there was a SAE but in Canada i think we just use imperial and USA metric,

Rix
 
Hi guys. Saw this post and thought I could add something to the fastener talk...

SAE J429 is the most well known imperial (inch series) mechanical property spec for fasteners. Common grades are 2, 5, and 8.

ISO 898-1 is the main mechanical property spec for metric fasteners. Common Classes are 4.6, 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9.

If you want to know more you can check out these PDFs (links below) that have mechanical property info on both inch series and metric.

Inch: http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Mechanical Properties of Inch Fasteners.pdf

Metric: http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Mechanical Properties of Metric Fasteners.pdf

Cheers,
Tyler
 
Right on thanks for posting those PDFs I saved them on my comp they are prertty informational :)

This might be a dumb question but How many millimeters is the number 12 stud ?
 
If you were to measure the outside diameter of the threads you would get roughly 12mm. In a perfect world the bolt is measured at the shank below the head and would come to the specification noted. But a lot of times it's off by .2 - .5mm especially Mitsubishi bolts I've noticed

Tyler, I felt like a deer in a headlight for a minute there so thanks for the informational links haha!
 
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