The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Noise coming from transfer case/driveshaft

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Casem13

Proven Member
81
9
Apr 15, 2017
Olympia, Washington
So I normally can hear a pop noise when I move my car forward or back from a parked position. It only pops once and then it won’t do it again until I’m parked again. And I have no idea why. But it’s sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side. And I’ve already checked for anything loose or broken and nothing. But now today I went to the store and just before I turned into my home I had to stop for traffic. I then went to pull forward and I get this loud sound that sounds like someone banging two metal pipes together. And I can kind of feel it in my feet. I had my girlfriend stand next to my car and tell me where the sound was coming from and she pointed to where the transfer case and driveshaft are. The car drives fine and it only makes the noise when accelerating forward or backward. I have no idea what could be causing it.
 
Well, get your car on Jack stands or a lift and inspect. It could be driveshaft U-joint, transfer case, a failed rear diff mount bushing, etc.
 
Just wanted to update. Had a shop look at it. They said I have either a broken spider gear or pinion gear in the rear diff. The problem is that no place carries the parts anymore. Not even Mitsubishi and I can’t find a used one.
 
Did they disassemble the differential to actually confirm it??? That is not a common failure at low power levels.

I got your email, I do not have spare ring and pinions or differentials.
 
Did they disassemble the differential to actually confirm it??? That is not a common failure at low power levels.

I got your email, I do not have spare ring and pinions or differentials.
They didn’t disassblebit. They just did a diagnostics check that cost me $145 and their hourly rate is $104 so I know they didn’t spend a lot of time on it. Their exact words were that they thinks a bad spider gear or pinion gear in the rear differential. And referred me to a local transmission shop. But I haven’t take it to them yet. I’m still thinking it’s a transfer case or center differential issue. They checked my u joints and carrier bearings and they are fine. It sounds like teeth on a shaft are catching and slipping. I have an extra transfer case but I don’t know how simple it is to work on a center differential. I’m more of an engine person, not a transmission and driveline person.
 
No there isn't. It is simply a R&R of the rear dif.
There IS a difference in gearing in some of the 2g's, but I'm not sure what that is as I am a 1g guy.
The LSD part is just Limited Slip Differential so it means it tries to spin both rear tires instead of one.
 
No there isn't. It is simply a R&R of the rear dif.
There IS a difference in gearing in some of the 2g's, but I'm not sure what that is as I am a 1g guy.
The LSD part is just Limited Slip Differential so it means it tries to spin both rear tires instead of one.
Ok I was reading somewhere that the axles were different or the driveshaft mating
 
The rear differential variations for a 2G DSM are simply non-LSD vs. LSD (axle inner CV axle cup spline length difference), and 5-speed vs. Automatic (gear ratio difference).

The center differential is in the transmission, you would have to have it disassembled to see what it going on.

So let me get this straight, you paid $150 for them to do what, spin the wheels on a lift? Because if they didn't actually disassemble anything to inspect, they didn't do anything to earn that kind of money. Learn how to do this stuff.
 
The rear differential variations for a 2G DSM are simply non-LSD vs. LSD (axle inner CV axle cup spline length difference), and 5-speed vs. Automatic (gear ratio difference).

The center differential is in the transmission, you would have to have it disassembled to see what it going on.

So let me get this straight, you paid $150 for them to do what, spin the wheels on a lift? Because if they didn't actually disassemble anything to inspect, they didn't do anything to earn that kind of money. Learn how to do this stuff.
I know how to do a lot of the inspections. But lack jack stands or the extra tools to do a lot of work and I live in an apartment where they have a strict “no working on your car or you have to move out” policy. So I’m stuck only doing things that I can do with a single jack and after office hours. But I do see that the center diff can be removed without dropping the transmission which is good and I can probably do this over the weekend and look at it. Otherwise it will probably have to be the transfer case as far i can tell. All of the noise it makes is coming from the transfer case/ transmission area
 
Well , removing the center diff in-car isn't as quick and easy as you think. It is significantly easier with the transmission out of the car to tear down the transmission. Especially if you find that it broke the center diff, then you are going to have chunks floating in the transmission and it will require a full teardown anyways. Just as a heads up.

Please understand I build transmissions for these cars full time, I just want to make sure you are aware of what you are getting in to when you are deducing center diff problems.

Let me know what information you need, otherwise please do a search on this site. I have factory service rebuild manuals on here as well as I have done several detailed tutorials on here for people tearing down their transmission.
 
Well , removing the center diff in-car isn't as quick and easy as you think. It is significantly easier with the transmission out of the car to tear down the transmission. Especially if you find that it broke the center diff, then you are going to have chunks floating in the transmission and it will require a full teardown anyways. Just as a heads up.

Please understand I build transmissions for these cars full time, I just want to make sure you are aware of what you are getting in to when you are deducing center diff problems.

Let me know what information you need, otherwise please do a search on this site. I have factory service rebuild manuals on here as well as I have done several detailed tutorials on here for people tearing down their transmission.
Thank you for the help. I really appreciate it. The only reason I’m not pulling the transmission and sending it to someone is cost saving. Hard to do on a small budget. But yea I have seen your posts and have been doing non stop reading for it. If it comes down to it. I might just pull the transmission. It’s a pain to put back in by myself but I’ve done it before.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Did they disassemble the differential to actually confirm it??? That is not a common failure at low power levels.

I got your email, I do not have spare ring and pinions or differentials.


So I pulled the transfer case to check if it was the transmission or transfer case and well. I found out that it probably is the rear differential. The transfer case turned fine by itself after I pulled it out of the car and off the driveshaft. Without any issue and so did the transmission. But the transfer case gear is completely stripped and the shaft front the transmission to transfer case in bad shape too. As you can tell. Luckily I have an extra transfer case but now I need a new shaft. I’m not sure how to replace that. And a new rear differential. What are your thoughts.
 

Attachments

  • D8F62169-422C-405C-B39D-A49EBE48C37F.jpeg
    D8F62169-422C-405C-B39D-A49EBE48C37F.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 40
I am suspecting that there will be a failed upper pinion washer in the center diff between the upper pinion gear and the center diff cover, and likely a burnt viscous coupler too. When the output shaft and tcase get damage like that, you usually find a dead center diff too.

Pull the transmission.
Disassemble the tcase (simply pull the side cover and pop out the drive gear to inspect the inner tapered roller bearing for initial failure point.
Disassemble transmission.
Inspect drive shaft slip yoke splines for damage.
Inspect rear diff pinion backlash at pinion flange that connects to drive shaft.
 
I am suspecting that there will be a failed upper pinion washer in the center diff between the upper pinion gear and the center diff cover, and likely a burnt viscous coupler too. When the output shaft and tcase get damage like that, you usually find a dead center diff too.

Pull the transmission.
Disassemble the tcase (simply pull the side cover and pop out the drive gear to inspect the inner tapered roller bearing for initial failure point.
Disassemble transmission.
Inspect drive shaft slip yoke splines for damage.
Inspect rear diff pinion backlash at pinion flange that connects to drive shaft.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll do that. I did jack the rear end up and spun the wheels and had no noise. When I spun the driver’s side wheel forward. The driveshaft spun fine but the passenger wheel didn’t spin at all. The I spun the passenger wheel forward. It spun the driveshaft as well and the drivers wheel spun backwards. I’m hoping that’s ok. I also already inspected the driveshaft yoke and it was in mint condition and I checked the shaft from tcase to driveshaft on the tcase and it was mint too. I’m going to pull the transmission apart in a few days since I have to save up for a new output shaft. Hopefully there isn’t anymore damage. When I spun the front wheel the transmission felt fine.
 
OEM new, or a good used part. You do not need a 300m output shaft, just a decent stock 23 spline one. I have some of those components at my shop if necessary.
 
OEM new, or a good used part. You do not need a 300m output shaft, just a decent stock 23 spline one. I have some of those components at my shop if necessary.

How much is the output shaft at your shop. The only oem ones I can find are $317. And I can’t find a vc anywhere. I don’t know if I need one yet
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top