No spark after head gasket replacement

[Scraggybeard]

Went to start up after head gasket replacement and no go. Checked spark at the plugs and there wasn't any. Heard next step is to check coil pack, correct? How do I do that? Another interesting thing I noticed is that when I turn key to the on position, the boost gauge rises to the halfway mark. I don't think I remember that happening before the work, could that be indicative of something? Thanks for any help, car is a 1996 gst.

 

[Scraggybeard]

Hmm, curious. When testing with the external spark plug, I laid it on the valve cover, that enough to ground it?

Is the power transistor the same thing as the ignition module?

When testing the power transistor, I tested the side coneccted to the IM (with the metal pins) rather than the side with the wires (with holes for the pins), is that correct or should I have tested the other side?

 

[My1GLaser]

If you don't have a jumper wire with alligator clips to use, then just stick a wooden handle screwdriver in the end of the plug wire where the plug goes. Wrap the handle in a shop rag, and wear a glove and see if the screwdriver will arc to a piece of bare metal or bolt head nearby that is grounded while someone cranks it over. (It will shock the shit out of you if you're not careful, hence all the insulating of the handle)

 

[Scraggybeard]

So to check the spark, if I put alligators from a set of jumpers on the threads of an external spark plug an put the other end on the frame, that would ground it to check spark?

 

[My1GLaser]

Yes. They are grounded when they are threaded into the head. They arc to the grounding strap on the plug itself. The reason I know is cause I tested it like you did before and got no spark cause I forgot they weren't grounded! I'm not sure what car it was on...

 

[Scraggybeard]

Right, so I went through the steps related to spark and everything seemed to check out (coil pack a bit high at 1.1ohms though should still start according to post above; light bulb lit appropriately during transistor check; voltage on the CPS while cranking was 4.6). Any of those worthy of a review? Another thing I noticed while cranking for the CPS check was that it seemed to crank really slow. The car has been sitting since mid-May (~6 months) but had the battery replaced within the past year. I hooked jumper cables up to my Jeep to see if I could jump it to life, but still nothing. Would I need to keep it hooked longer to charge the battery? Also wondering about belts since I had replaced my timing belt/accessory belts after the head gasket change. Is it possible the belts are on too tight putting extra strain on the engine so it's not able to turn over fast enough? Would that prevent spark from occurring or is that independent of how fast it cranks?

 

[Kirkamus]

Due to the parasitic draw on the battery from leaving it plugged up you probably completely drained it to the point of no return. If it hasnt been a year then maybe they can switch it out for you free of charge. About installing crank sensor is this the 6bolt engine or 7bolt. Same with head. I personally know you can put the crank sensor on both ways in a 7bolt with 7bolt head, alcohol and car work should not ever mix, the little lip with the metal goes facing the block not out facing the actual crank gear. Pictures make up for 1000 words

 

[Scraggybeard]

Thanks for the quick reply Kirkamus. Everything is bundled up now so I can't get a quick picture, though the crank sensor is installed so the crank plate passes through the groove of the sensor (if I flipped it, the plate would pass behind it, I believe). This correct?

 

[Kirkamus]

it really just takes a picture of it to know for sure if it is backwards or not that was my trial and error. I know its a lot of work for 2 flippin bolts to switch the sensor around . You can probably just remove the bottom timing cover and you should be able to get in to see it.

 

[Scraggybeard]

When I first attempted to start after the head gasket replacement, the CEL turned on for 5 seconds, then turned off. After a few attempts over a couple of days, I noticed the CEL stayed on. Finally got a reader, hooked it up, and it read P0335, Crankshaft position sensor A circuit. I will get the timing cover off again and take a look at the sensor. I double checked to make sure it was oriented correctly (but I'll triple check again), my question is that if it is, in fact, on correctly, would there be anything else to check or should I just replace it? Would replacing the sensor likely fix it or could there be something else going on? Thanks!