2G No spark 2 and 3, 2g with 6 bolt swap

[eclipse_spyder]

Here I am battling another no spark on 2 and 3 cylinder. Here's a little background. Car is a 97 spyder. It had the original 7 bolt in it. I did the 6 bolt swap with the factory 6 bolt intake manifold and it started right up. Soon after, I upgraded intake manifold and a rebuilt N/T throttle body. Came back to start it and it won't stay idling. Checked for spark, 1 and 4 shows spark. 2 and 3 do not. I pulled out the CAS and had the key on while I turn the CAS to show spark. I have tried 2 known working CAS, 2 power transistors that were from a working car, and bought a brand new OEM coil pack. So those can not be it. I've checked my wiring like 10 times already. Engine speed detection connector are connected to each other. CAS harness goes yellow to blue, red to red, black to black, white to blue/red from the cam angle sensor. Intake manifold is grounded to the chassis. I've traced all of the CAS, coil pack, and power transistor wires and they are not pinched/cut/stripped. I also opened up the ecu to check for anything blown. Nothing looks burnt and looks very good. I've been searching online for every thread with no spark on 2 and 3 issue and cannot find what went wrong. Any other suggestions?

 

[DogWhistle]

Suggest you check Pin 23 on your ecu. It's in the bottom row of the 26-pin connector on the ecu. My color coding shows Brown with a Red tracer.

This wire leads up to the Ignition Power Transistor and then exits on the Transistor #1 terminal, headed for the Coil Pack. This circuit triggers spark for cylinders 2 & 3.

 

[eclipse_spyder]

Thanks for replying back DogWhistle. I have tested the voltage with a multimeter on the power transistor connector(red/brown wire) with the key on and it shows 11.7ish. Same goes for the black/blue wire on the power transistor connector which fires cylinder 1 and 4. So I'm definitely getting power signal from the ecu, right? The next thing I can think of is the power transistor. But I have tried 2 different power transistors. 1 that is in my buddies gst right now that is running. The other was working completely fine when I had the factory intake manifold on. There's gotta be something I'm missing.

 

[DogWhistle]

So far so good. Be sure to check the voltage coming OUT of the power transistor going to the coil in order to fully verify the transistor.

I know you tried parts from other running cars, so it points to the wiring, since when using the other cars' parts, you are plugging them into your wire harness.

We're not that far away. If you can't figure it out by the weekend, let us know and we'll stop over.

 

[eclipse_spyder]

So far so good. Be sure to check the voltage coming OUT of the power transistor going to the coil in order to fully verify the transistor.

I know you tried parts from other running cars, so it points to the wiring, since when using the other cars' parts, you are plugging them into your wire harness.

We're not that far away. If you can't figure it out by the weekend, let us know and we'll stop over.

How would I test the voltage coming out of the power transistor? I'm guessing I would need to check voltage on the coil pack connector to see the voltage coming out of the power transistor, correct? Or am I totally wrong???

 

[DogWhistle]

Remember, you are checking the wiring harness for problems, so being that you have substituted several other ignition components, and still experienced the same problem, you probably don't have to test the power transistor itself (separate test procedure).

Yes, you want to check the voltage at the plug coming into the coil pack. The center pin is battery voltage / left pin is cylinders 2 & 3 / right pin is cylinders 1 & 4.