no power after battery relocation

[bNasty]

Alright guys so heres my problem. This week im back on break so i started to do some work on the talon. I buttoned up my interior and my battery relocation. I feel like this is a really newb problem but i have absolutely no power to anything right now. Its a new battery but i thought because it had been sitting it had died so i hooked the charger up and still no power at all. I used a distribution block for all the cables going to the positive terminal. and i just hooked everything that when to the negative terminal to the frame as a ground. Now do you think i need more grounds or what? thanks for the help guys.

 

[viperlp01]

Did you make sure to plug in that huge plug that is kinda right under the fuse box. If that is not plugged in it won't work. Can you take a picture of what you did. Its time to get a multimeter out and make sure the fuse box is getting power. Also make sure the distribution block is getting power as well.

 

[govproperty]

With the battery relocation did you install a circuit breaker? Is it tripped?

 

[bNasty]

Did you make sure to plug in that huge plug that is kinda right under the fuse box. If that is not plugged in it won't work. Can you take a picture of what you did. Its time to get a multimeter out and make sure the fuse box is getting power. Also make sure the distribution block is getting power as well.

I think i did ill check it out today

With the battery relocation did you install a circuit breaker? Is it tripped?

No there is no circuit breaker. Im using a Jegs battery relocation kit. it just came with a gorund strap. cables box and a tie down

 

[RBehne2]

You may need to check your ground. Can you post a pic of the ground from the Batt??

 

[Foz]

No there is no circuit breaker. Im using a Jegs battery relocation kit. it just came with a gorund strap. cables box and a tie down

For your own safety, you need to look into adding a circuit breaker or fuse close to the battery. Personally, I'd have a second one under the hood to be safe.

 

[1990AWD]

As stated it's time to pull out the DMM and do some testing. Start at the battery and work your way down to where there is no power.

 

[darthvadar tsi]

I think your battery is done because it sat for a while im assuming. Same thing happened to mine I just bought a buschur mini.

 

[AWD Devious]

If you leave your battery on concrete it kills your battery and if you charged it it may also have a dead cell. take it to you local autozone they will charge and test your battery for free.

 

[bNasty]

You may need to check your ground. Can you post a pic of the ground from the Batt??

my ground goes from the negative terminal straight to the frame right next to the spare.

If you leave your battery on concrete it kills your battery and if you charged it it may also have a dead cell. take it to you local autozone they will charge and test your battery for free.

the battery was sitting in the trunk. so there shouldnt be any discharge

 

[RBehne2]

my ground goes from the negative terminal straight to the frame right next to the spare.

Try to ground it at the shock/strut tower where the strut mount bolts in. I tried it the way you have it, and it didn't work for me either.

 

[Tyeler18]

Have you made sure the battery is still charged? And did it work before and now it doesn't?

 

[bNasty]

Try to ground it at the shock/strut tower where the strut mount bolts in. I tried it the way you have it, and it didn't work for me either.

i will try that later. but it shouldnt make a difference. i made sure to ground down to bare metal.

Have you made sure the battery is still charged? And did it work before and now it doesn't?

the battery worked fine before i removed it. its a brand new battery.

 

[MrP]

do you have a dmm?

 

[bNasty]

do you have a dmm?

whats that?

 

[untouchablecc]

Digital Multi-meter

Used to test voltage OHMs amps.

Leaving your battery on a concrete floor will not kill it. The battery is covered in plastic. The negative charge from the concrete will not draw a positive charge through plastic. On the old batterys that were encased in wood this was true but not todays technology. I went to a battery seminar for advance auto. Its a myth.

 

[bNasty]

here are pics of the setup

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these were both originally going to the negative terminal. The black wire is the negative from the starter and the red wire is the negative i have from my alternator

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heres the ground on the battery.

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[1997_GSX]

here are pics of the setup

I see a lot of problems with that setup.

1) The strands of wire on that distribution block need fixed.
2) Lead Acid batterys produce toxic and corrosive gas and should be vented to the outside of the car in a battery box
3) I hope you don't plan to run that car at a track because more than likely it will fail tech because I don't see any mention of a push off battery kill switch.

As for what the others have said you need to buy a multimeter.

a)You need the test the positive and the ground on the battery, it should float around 12 volts but not to much lower.
b)Then you need to hook the red wire of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery and the black wire to the chassis where you have your ground strap ran. The voltage shouldn't vary at all between a and b.
c) Then you need to test your distribution blocks the same way, if its a positive block hook the red lead to the block and the black lead to some where that is unpainted and clean on the chassis. If it is a negative or grounding block you need to hook the black lead to the block and the red lead to the positive on the battery.
d) If you have voltage at A, B, and C then you need to check the fuses and test each wire connection individually for voltage.


Here is a link the multimeter that I have, I know its not a Fluke but it gets the job done for $20. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=03482141000P

It can be very helpful in troubleshooting your TPS voltage, ISC resistance and other various things. They are much better than a Test light that is cheaper.

Test lights often damage car electrical systems because of the amperage draw that it takes to light but bulb so stay away from test light.

 

[johneclipse]

I see a lot of problems with that setup.

1) The strands of wire on that distribution block need fixed.
2) Lead Acid batterys produce toxic and corrosive gas and should be vented to the outside of the car in a battery box
3) I hope you don't plan to run that car at a track because more than likely it will fail tech because I don't see any mention of a push off battery kill switch.

As for what the others have said you need to buy a multimeter.

a)You need the test the positive and the ground on the battery, it should float around 12 volts but not to much lower.
b)Then you need to hook the red wire of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery and the black wire to the chassis where you have your ground strap ran. The voltage shouldn't vary at all between a and b.
c) Then you need to test your distribution blocks the same way, if its a positive block hook the red lead to the block and the black lead to some where that is unpainted and clean on the chassis. If it is a negative or grounding block you need to hook the black lead to the block and the red lead to the positive on the battery.
d) If you have voltage at A, B, and C then you need to check the fuses and test each wire connection individually for voltage.

it wouldnt pass tech that way anywways due to it not being in a sealed box vented outside

 

[xXEclipse]

my ground goes from the negative terminal straight to the frame right next to the spare.

Did you scrape off the paint, for the ground?

 

[johneclipse]

Did you scrape off the paint, for the ground?

he said he scraped it off to bare metal....

only thing you can do is test for voltages with either a voltmeter or DMM

 

[1997_GSX]

it wouldnt pass tech that way anywways due to it not being in a sealed box vented outside

Exactly, some tracks let that slide though, the push off is generally a must.



I have a PC680 right now under hood to save me some space. I am going back to a redtop because the PC680 is just to small by the time you get the blower motor turned on, lights, radiator fans. I am just waiting till I have the money to do it right, sealed box, push off switch, nice distribution blocks and hyperflex wire.

 

[bNasty]

I see a lot of problems with that setup.

1) The strands of wire on that distribution block need fixed.
2) Lead Acid batterys produce toxic and corrosive gas and should be vented to the outside of the car in a battery box
3) I hope you don't plan to run that car at a track because more than likely it will fail tech because I don't see any mention of a push off battery kill switch.

As for what the others have said you need to buy a multimeter.

a)You need the test the positive and the ground on the battery, it should float around 12 volts but not to much lower.
b)Then you need to hook the red wire of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery and the black wire to the chassis where you have your ground strap ran. The voltage shouldn't vary at all between a and b.
c) Then you need to test your distribution blocks the same way, if its a positive block hook the red lead to the block and the black lead to some where that is unpainted and clean on the chassis. If it is a negative or grounding block you need to hook the black lead to the block and the red lead to the positive on the battery.
d) If you have voltage at A, B, and C then you need to check the fuses and test each wire connection individually for voltage.


Here is a link the multimeter that I have, I know its not a Fluke but it gets the job done for $20. Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

It can be very helpful in troubleshooting your TPS voltage, ISC resistance and other various things. They are much better than a Test light that is cheaper.

Test lights often damage car electrical systems because of the amperage draw that it takes to light but bulb so stay away from test light.

while there may be some problems to my particular setup none of those things would really cause a complete no power situation. obviously im not getting power but everything seems to be connected together.

 

[xXEclipse]

he said he scraped it off to bare metal....

only thing you can do is test for voltages with either a voltmeter or DMM

Sorry didn't pay attention

 

[bNasty]

so i think i figured it out. for some reason no currents is passing through the actual negative terminal to the ground strap. The battery is fine 12 volts but no current is flowing from the terminal to the ground strap. im going to switch out terminals and see what that does