No Low End Power ????

[gudz519]

hi everyone i finally got my baby on the road again its a 1998 with bbp headers an ebay short ram new spark plugs oil change 93 octane gas i mean i take care of her. my problem is from a dead stop she has no power once i hit like 4500 rpm's she fly's then i get until about six i shift then the next gear has no power. i dont feel like power shifting so I'm stuck with no power until the rpm's climb can anyone please help me it would greatly appreciated.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Sorry but you drive a N/T. It's common.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/133592-low-end-power-help-please.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/67347-wheres-my-low-end-power.html

 

[Fotowntalon]

its not that your just n/t, its you have a 4 cylinder 2.0 if you want a lotta low end get a v8... Are your headers 4-1 or 4-2-1, because i hear the 4-1s kill your low end more than 4-2-1s. Sadly most mods you do are gonna hurt your low end even more.

One of the best things you can do is try to shave rotational weight to rev quicker to get into your power band quicker. If you get some type of tuning device, you can make it so you can rev higher without losing power and then when you shift, you will be shifting roughly into your power band. Just outa curiosity, are you driving and auto or 5speed?

 

[LD25Delta9]

This isn't a problem because he HAS an NT. It's a problem WITH his NT. That was real close to a low-blow Adam.

To the OP: You need to quit using 93 octane. Chances are you have fouled up your plugs and put a ton of carbon on them. Pull your plugs and see if they are all black. The ONLY reason you need 93 is if you are running boost or have high compression, to keep detonation from occurring. Otherwise you will end up running super rich and getting all your valves and plugs carbon'd up. This can GREATLY affect your bottom end. Also make sure your are using some NGK BKR6ES plugs. All of those Platinum, Iridium, what-ever-idum plugs you choose, are all junk and add no performance what-so-ever to our engine. The NGK's are the most efficient and also happen to be one of the cheapest plugs for our car. Also look into getting a Lightweight Under Drive Pulley or UDP. That will let you rev quicker like Fotown mentioned. Hope this helped.

 

[gudz519]

i have a 5 speed and i have headers that i think are 4-1 well it goes into one pipe after the exhaust mani

 

[Fotowntalon]

You need to quit using 93 octane. Chances are you have fouled up your plugs and put a ton of carbon on them. Pull your plugs and see if they are all black. The ONLY reason you need 93 is if you are running boost or have high compression, to keep detonation from occurring. Otherwise you will end up running super rich and getting all your valves and plugs carbon'd up.

You also need 93 octane depending on your tuning device, aka AFX ECU requires the 93 octane, sorry delta, its not often that i get to add onto your post, so had to do it =P

to Gudz,If you miss the low end, You might want to go o some 4-2-1's. I was asking about wether you drove a 5sp or not because my g/f has an auto, and i have a 5sp, and i feel the low end hurt way more on her car. But since you have a 5sp, from a stop, you might need to practice some better launches, if ya need to get up and go right away

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

It's not a low-blow, I am being realistic with him. These cars weren't designed to make torque and didn't have that great of horsepower numbers. Showed him a couple links of what people do to try to remedy the problem but LD25Delta9 has the best idea of all. Which is he slapped a turbo on his car.

 

[gudz519]

i thought 93 octane was the best for your car no matter what i had no clue it would hurt my car thats weird how hard is a udp to install?

 

[rstare]

i thought 93 octane was the best for your car no matter what i had no clue it would hurt my car thats weird how hard is a udp to install?

Higher octane is simply used under higher cylinder pressures, or temperatures, rather, to avoid engine knock. So, unless you're altering your ignition timing, or turning up boost, it is useless. You're just wasting a few extra bucks.

A UDP is one of the best mods you can do, and it's not too hard. As long as you have a 3 jaw puller.
Here: 2GNT.com - AFX_UDP

 

[bullettdsm]

Hmm, I don't know about you guys, but every one of my NA's have been able to spin out of first and at least chirp second (Even my basically stock OZ). I'm not sure what cars you guys are driving, but we can come out kinda quick (I pretty much always beat turbo FWD's out of the hole).

Gudz, do yourself a flavor and give yourself a comp check (then check the engine, har har ). Did you by any chance just do a timing belt? Any cels?

(Sorry, I can't remember all that we've talked about)

MB

 

[Fotowntalon]

hense, my statement on practing launching but when i'm at a traffic light, daily driving, after i got my head p&p i can tell i am missing low end, of course if i ever needed it, i'd just skip the low rpms

 

[LD25Delta9]

I concur with Bullet. The NA's are faster than the turbo off the line. I've had to prove that to 3 of my fellow DSMers here. Of course I got whomped by the end, but oh the sweet satisfaction of being right.

I'm still against 93 oct. (unless required) Maybe 89, but the premium will carbon up your combustion chamber for sure, which will rob power.

"Think of it this way, you've already got a CAI which will change the amount of air going into your engine. This will richen up your A/F ratio, changing your ignition timing. You go to richen it up anymore with higher octane gas, you'll just run pig rich (go real slow or bog down) until you reach a high enough RPM to have the proper ignition timing to actually burn off the high ratio of fuel efficiently. Not to mention the horrible rotten egg smell from your exhaust that loves to catch up to you when you stop at a light with the windows down..." This is how my Professor explained it to me, paraphrased of course. Add the low vacuum that the headers cause= No go in low gear.

 

[gudz519]

thanks bullet were can i get a comp check and how much does it usually cost another thing is i have a crappy rear mount that is always banging i cant find any one to make me a solid mount do you think this could have any thing to do with this?

 

[LD25Delta9]

Buy a comp tester for $45 from autozoo and do it yourself. They are invaluable. Pull a spark plug, pull the wires going to your Coil, screw in the comp. tester finger tight and crank your engine. Do this with the engine warm and read the 3rd needle spike. Stock spec is 175-225 psi. Anything under and you either have valve leakage due to carbon build-up, or bad rings.

 

[gudz519]

Thanks M. Bullet no check engine lights, no new timing belt. I think im going to run a compression test to see what the numbers are. Does anybody think that this could be due to a bad motor mount?

 

[Fotowntalon]

compression should have nothing to do with a bad motor mount, and a bad motor mount shouldn't hurt your acceleration to much, it will hurt it, because your engine will rock before it puts the power to the wheels, but shouldn't be to huge of a difference.

heres a link of how to do a compression test, its rather easy, (although instead of pulling the relays i just disconnected my coil) http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/76227-diy-compression-test-420a.html

 

[96_killer]

Hmm, I don't know about you guys, but every one of my NA's have been able to spin out of first and at least chirp second (Even my basically stock OZ). I'm not sure what cars you guys are driving, but we can come out kinda quick (I pretty much always beat turbo FWD's out of the hole).

Gudz, do yourself a flavor and give yourself a comp check (then check the engine, har har ). Did you by any chance just do a timing belt? Any cell

MB

I half to agree with bullett. my two Gs's doses the the same thing i can spin on first and chirp on second! when they were stock, i can brake traction from a idle roll to WOT! do a comp check...

 

[Locke]

Adam H.;

Gasoline's octane rating doesn't actually reflect the amount of HC's in the fuel, but is rather a comparison to the anti-knock characteristics of a mixture of octane and heptane. Higher octane (rated) pump fuels carry the same energy as lower octane (rated) pump fuels. Using a higher rated fuel than necessary won't add carbon, or anything else; it's harmless. It is, though, a huge waste of money.

Octane rating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

PM me or start a new thread if you want to discuss this in-depth.

 

[Fotowntalon]

I half to agree with bullett. my two Gs's doses the the same thing i can spin on first and chirp on second! when they were stock, i can brake traction from a idle roll to WOT! do a comp check...

Its simply amazing the difference in wheel spin/chirp difference between tires. With my stock tires i cant wheel spin, i wheel bounce >< with my recent tires I could launch at a higher rpm, and went from wheel spin to wheel hop. I'm hoping my next tire upgrade lets my launch even higher with less wheel spin and more stickyness.
Abridged version below
Tires play a huge part in getting off the line

 

[gudz519]

just out of curiosity what are you guys launching at?

 

[bullettdsm]

just out of curiosity what are you guys launching at?

First off, just to be sure, YOU are not launching a thing until you fix that rear roll stop motor mount You WILL wheel hop and then you are into breaking axles and diff's.

As for me (I mean, this is when I'm in my long, empty, private parking lot in Mexico ), I do a timed slip launch. I will actually hit it right around 3.5kish, but that is "on the way up" with a slip launch. It is not a "peak and hold".

My 1st to 2nd shift is a no lift shift.

MB

 

[Fotowntalon]

what your launching at will have a lot to do with your current power and tires. I try to keep my launch around a 2-2.5kish, if i go to much higher, i'm wheel spinning to much, hoping after i get some better tires, i'll be launching around 3-3.5kish

 

[gudz519]

First off, just to be sure, YOU are not launching a thing until you fix that rear roll stop motor mount You WILL wheel hop and then you are into breaking axles and diff's.

As for me (I mean, this is when I'm in my long, empty, private parking lot in Mexico ), I do a timed slip launch. I will actually hit it right around 3.5kish, but that is "on the way up" with a slip launch. It is not a "peak and hold".

My 1st to 2nd shift is a no lift shift.

MB

thanks for the information what do you mean mark when you say no lifts for 1st to 2nd and i emailed your friend he said he only make front solid roll stoppers does anyone know anyone else that makes these?

 

[LD25Delta9]

http://www.disturbingmotorsports.com They can do any of your mounts without a core. It's cheaper if you send a core in.

 

[96_killer]

i wouldn't launch at high rpm's with a open differential you will just be spinning one tire. then SNAP!: i would know...