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jdombrow

10+ Year Contributor
130
1
Nov 13, 2008
Escanaba, Michigan
I know its another noob question, but currently i have a manual boost controller, 1g bov/flange, and a new k&n fipk. Planning on walbro 255 lph fuel pump/afpr , boost guage, and a 3.5 inch exhaust next week. Also some cleanup ( Intercooler and throttle plate. )

What would it be safe to turn my boost upto with the mods i listed?

I was planning on going with 15 - 17. I've heard different things about the stock turbo maxing at 15 or 17. Any problems with running at 17 since i plan on switching to a TD05H 20g within the next month or 2 once i get all supporting mods done?

what would be the most i could pull from the turbo safely?
 
ummm I wouldn't turn up the boost on a stock boost gauge..

A aftermarket boostgauge is one of the first things you need when you start modding your car. Also Get a wideband and some way to read logs.
 
careful with that 3.5" exhaust that might be to big....you might be hitting the driveshaft if you AWD ....
 
Keep your boost at stock boost for now since you don't have a boost gauge installed you won't really know what you're boosting at with the stock boost gauge. After you get a real boost gauge installed set your boost at 15psi for the T25. 15psi is where DSMers usually notice the T25 maxing out and pushing more won't get you anywhere.
 
I agree as well with that size of exhaust beeing too big. Get a full 3" turboback, intake, and for now keep the boost at stock level. Get a boost gauge asap and then turn the boost up to 16 psi max. This should help you notice a little bump in pickup.
 
i would focus on just getting an aftermarket boost gauge then turning up the boost because like the rest said the stock gauge is just there really doesnt do any thing. after getting a new boost gauge then do a 3in. exhaust injectors and dsmlink.
 
I'd like to have 400-450 hp and heard 3 inch gets to restrictive at 400

And i would rather not end up getting 2 exhausts, would 3 inch be able to handle 400-450 hp reasonably well?

Planning on getting forged internals at one point or another. at what point would i need to worry about them?
 
I'd like to have 400-450 hp and heard 3 inch gets to restrictive at 400

And i would rather not end up getting 2 exhausts, would 3 inch be able to handle 400-450 hp reasonably well?

Planning on getting forged internals at one point or another. at what point would i need to worry about them?

3" gets too restrictive at around 400hp ? Maybe i should tell my friend and his 600+hp evo to upgrade his piping then...

Stock internals are good for up to 400hp. Anything more than that requires beefier internals. Don't forget your supporting mods, fuel mods, and tuning as well in order to avoid any future problems.
 
Most DSMs that run 600+ don't have cat-back exhausts anymore anyways ROFL

Don't turn the boost up without a guage, i'm sure you can turn it up a few pounds without a wideband.

if you want a cheap go faster mod, get a 14b
 
i meant turbo back 3.5 inch. so 3 inch would be fine, also will i need anything special on the exhaust to make it fit upto a 20g? or will stock downpipe work?
 
You don't need a wideband. Don't do anything without a logger. Youre flying blind and you don't know what's going on with out one. You can run whatever boost your knock count allows. If you have a 1997-1999 2g then you can log knock count directly along with injector duty cycle to see if/when you're running out of fuel. Don't do anything with out a logger.
 
Most DSMs that run 600+ don't have cat-back exhausts anymore anyways ROFL

Don't turn the boost up without a guage, i'm sure you can turn it up a few pounds without a wideband.

if you want a cheap go faster mod, get a 14b
 
No. Don't turn up the boost with out a logging solution. You can't be absent-minded enough to turn up the boost until you feel knock. If you, do then it's over for your headgasket; especially with the 2g 7bolt headbolts.
 
Hmm, no, you would need a wideband instead of a narrow band so that you can read a/f ratio. The narrow band only tells you or the ecu if your richer than stoich (14.7:1) or leaner than stoich. It reads 1 or 0. Your wideband is analog to the ratio.
 
Will you listen to what everyone is saying. You should first do all the maintenance to the car such as fluids, gaskets, hoses. Also a good thing would be to read the basic mods and go to this link and read the whole thing, thats what I did before I even asked any questions. When you start out working on these cars for the first time its like homework, do your research and get as much knowledge then if you are confused or have questions ask then.

heres the link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/731471-post1.html
 
Guys LOL quit telling him a boost guage, Im sure he gets the point plus in his first post he said he was getting one LOL.

Dude, I say go get the dsm link first after and only after you get a wideband. IF you get the pricier parts first then the other cheaper go fast parts dont seem so bad when it comes to saving. Plus if you get dsmlink first and then add parts, tunning will be easier b/c you already have any idea on what the hell your doing.


Good example...my brother put pro efi on his car and started messing with this and that without learning how to use it and boom is all I have to say. I got pro efi as my first mod and I have no problem using the software. Made it easier for me...and I put down a resonable 13.1 on a 14b w/ just pro efi, and exhuast from the o2 and back and a clutch(and supporting mods ofcourse)

Alot of poeple will disagree with me but when people are going fast and dont know what there doing with there own software and just move shit...thats when you can go boom. Plus my 1g14b was way faster then my bros 1g18g.
Learn your tunning program and oh a afc can take you a good ways.
 
Hmm, no, you would need a wideband instead of a narrow band so that you can read a/f ratio. The narrow band only tells you or the ecu if your richer than stoich (14.7:1) or leaner than stoich. It reads 1 or 0. Your wideband is analog to the ratio.

Guys LOL quit telling him a boost guage, Im sure he gets the point plus in his first post he said he was getting one LOL.

Dude, I say go get the dsm link first after and only after you get a wideband. IF you get the pricier parts first then the other cheaper go fast parts dont seem so bad when it comes to saving. Plus if you get dsmlink first and then add parts, tunning will be easier b/c you already have any idea on what the hell your doing.
Good example...my brother put pro efi on his car and started messing with this and that without learning how to use it and boom is all I have to say. I got pro efi as my first mod and I have no problem using the software. Made it easier for me...and I put down a resonable 13.1 on a 14b w/ just pro efi, and exhuast from the o2 and back and a clutch(and supporting mods ofcourse)

Alot of poeple will disagree with me but when people are going fast and dont know what there doing with there own software and just move shit...thats when you can go boom. Plus my 1g14b was way faster then my bros 1g18g.
Learn your tunning program and oh a afc can take you a good ways.

Thanks thats more of what i was looking for. I will be ordering the wideband/guages/A-Pillar/afpr/255lph fuel pump next week appreciate the quick responses.
 
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