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newbie GSX build

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bagii

10+ Year Contributor
43
0
Jan 3, 2012
Salt Lake City, Utah
Hello All,
I'm new here and I just got my 1st DSM. It's a '93 GSX and I picked it up for a grand:D I have 2 topics concerning my car.
1: I have roughly $1500 to put towards my build; I'm just wondering what would be the best mods for my budget? Do I have a chance at 300 awhp?
2: My car won't shift into 2nd gear; I'm assuming it's a syncro but I'm gonna pull the trans apart and make sure. Just wondering where I can find a 2nd gear syncro?
Thanks in advance!
 
First you need to probably replace the timing belt, that would be the very first thing before you get into modding.. Then all the other basics, like plugs, wires, fluids, filters, so on. You will probably need more than just a synchro, plus tranny stuff likes to fall apart sometimes when taking one apart. Jnztuning, extremepsi, and a lot others will have your part for ya.
 
General maintanance first such as timing, gaskets, seals, sparkplugs and etc and don't forget to check your tranny out.Performance wise you are in the same range as me of the 300hp.I got 16g at 19 psi just making about 300whp.So start of with exhaust and intake.Turbo wise I would get a 16g turbo and a front mount intercooler.You can eather go the ecmlink way or run a safc if just staying at 300hp range, but I can garentee you will wanna grow.You will probably need 650cc injectors to get 300hp and a fuel pump.So you can see your already past a little more then what you got.But there is good news to a 1g dsm you will already be good with the 14b turbo would recomend maintance boost gauge wideband and up the boost just a little you will be good till it is up and running fully.But hopefully that will give you a justifacation on what to exspect so far.
 
Please do all the supporting mods too, as in don't upgrade your turbo until you have the fuel mods, and intercooler depending on what you get, and don't throw bigger injectors on without a fuel pump to feed them, a fuel pressure regulator to control the fuel pump, and a tuning device to tune with. Don't do any fuel modification without logging tools, a wideband and some sort of timing/knock logger. And don't do any of that until you've down maintenance.
 
Of course I'm going to take care of the timing belt and regular maintenance and fix the leaks; that's a whole different budget. I've 1500 for mods alone. I was thinking I want to do at least a FMIC and an intake to start. The car has already been straight piped although its like 2.25" in front and steps up to 3" around the middle. And what about the factory MAF sensor?! What's up with that? that thing is huge and looks expensive! Is there away around that MAF sensor?
 
Buy some 550s and an E316G and turn up the boost to 25 and rev limit every shift.






Kidding, go do all of the maintenance first. When I bought my first Talon I did plugs, wires, PCV, oil change, catch can, rotors, pads, tires, tie rods, links and an alignment.
 
Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new baby! The tech section here has a really good "upgrade path" part that lays out a lot of the things you'll need to hit whatever HP goal you're shooting for. The 1g MAF is pretty well known for being a POS, you can go with a 2g/EVO MAF, GM MAF with translator, or the almighty speed density route to get rid of the stock one. All of these will need tuning like DSMLink though, except a 2g MAF you can compensate for with an A/F controller.
 
gm maf norm goes in after your BOV so that u can vent to the atmosphere instead of recirculate. to do this you'll need to upgrade your intercooler piping to hard pipes
 
+1 on doing maintenance items first. Also the VRSF intercooler is worth the money, i just installed one on my 95.
Also taking apart a transmission isn't that bad if you have some mechanical experience but if your still new with mechanics definitely get some help and pick up a repair manual.
 
You might want to try adjusting your clutch pedal so you get the most out of it, and change your fluid to Redline MT90.

If your clutch starts to engage very close to the floor, it would help to adjust it. First you would want to increase the overall travel of the pedal, by adjusting the criuse cut switch. Then follow the Jacks Transmission video instructions for adjusting the rod on the master cylinder.

If someone put GL-5 gear oil in it, it would shift much better with GL-4.

Doing both of those things may save you from having to dissasemble the transmission. Also, not shifting too far above redline helps.

NINGA EDIT:
As for what to buy assuming maintenence is done:
-Wideband/gauge $200
-ECMlink $550
-boost controller (you can make one to stretch your budget) $20
-used 2g MAF $30
-boost leak tester (make one) $10
-650cc or larger injectors (depending on future plans) $400
-walbro 190 (or a 255 with an AFPR) $89 (or $289)

So there you have it $1300 with a walbro 190 $1500 with a 255 and a regulator.

Take your boost leak tester and go looking for a used FMIC. I found a PTE 800 HP core FMIC for less than $100 used. ($600 new)
It's 10,000,000 times better in every way than the ebay JDM sport 2.5x27x7 junk core I had in there before.
 
Thanks for all the input guys! keep it coming! just an update; I already got the trans out and torn apart and I gotta replace sychro hub and slider and sychro rings. 2nd gear looked alright but my synchro hub was all torn up.
 
For the money after your maintenance i'd get a 255 walbro and FPR
650-850cc injectors.
A rebuilt 16g.
Down Pipe
RRE Boost controller.
Big K&N intake filter.
2g MAF.
And somehing to tune your setup such as DSM Link SAFC or whatever.
If you can get deals on your part you'll be set man.
Good luck with your build man! :hellyeah:
 
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