NEW VIDEO of my car 3/7/10

[wickedz]

So Im thinking I have crankwalk because of the play with the pully. You can physically hear the crank or whatever hitting side to side. Is this something I can fix, or continue to find a whole new block? My TSi is a Nov 97 so I guess I have the revised thrust bearings, and was told by a wiseman, he highly doubts I CW'ed. Everyone chime in please. I was also told if I did CW, then my block is beyond repairable. Im just very confused.

Sorry for the shitty quailty of the video but you get the point

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NEW VIDEO 3/7/10. The Harmonic pulley was seperating, but I still have the crank movement. Its not alot and was told, that a little bit was normal. You can hear it still, but its not enough to where you can physically see the crank gear move. Suggest everyone!

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[tenn-gsx]

Yep that looks like C/W. It dont mean you need a new crank though. You might be able to toss in a new set of bearings and be ok. You might need to have the crank cleaned p or you might need a new crank. No way to tell till you get down there and look at your crank. Most people are scared of crankwalk to the point that they just want to toss any part that was associated with a c/w engine. If you dont mind answering. What clutch do you use? What is your mileage on the engine? Is your clutch start switch disabled?

 

[wickedz]

Im a automatic and im at 99,000 miles

I just got the car a month ago and only put 12 miles on it and started ALL maintenance

 

[natertater]

thats kinda crazy, its usually more prone on manuals, but that is what it looks like. follow the suggestions as noted above. i have seen kits around to prevent crank walk, but not proven. they "fixed" the issue in late 98 or 99 right?

 

[wickedz]

I have BSE also.

also i was 158-160 on every cylinder'

 

[jjrock5]

Oh yea that is some crazy excessive endplay.

 

[wickedz]

would this be the cause of power lose? I mean the car runs like a top and sounds great, but just slower then a damn golf cart

can i just replace bearings and crank?

 

[haswesley]

CW is your crankshaft moving forward in the block. After a while, you get shaft play like you have. But, CW usually doesn't cause a car to run like a golf cart with no power. CW is the cause of spinning a bearing and possibly ruining the crank, etc. Have you read up on CW, yet? I think someone asked you what type of clutch you have. That's an excellent question because a high tension clutch, like a racing clutch, causes a lot of pressure to be placed on the thrust bearings by pushing the crank forward in the engine. Jack at www. Jackstransmissions.com knows how to solve CW.

 

[tenn-gsx]

can i just replace bearings and crank?

You can sometimes. Depends on the damage. You need to get under there and see whats up first. If you want to baby it along till you can afford another engine then try slipping only a new set of bearings in. Worst case is you will be out the cash for the bearings and you got to drive your car a while longer.

 

[wickedz]

CW is your crankshaft moving forward in the block. After a while, you get shaft play like you have. But, CW usually doesn't cause a car to run like a golf cart with no power. CW is the cause of spinning a bearing and possibly ruining the crank, etc. Have you read up on CW, yet? I think someone asked you what type of clutch you have. That's an excellent question because a high tension clutch, like a racing clutch, causes a lot of pressure to be placed on the thrust bearings by pushing the crank forward in the engine. Jack at www. Jackstransmissions.com knows how to solve CW.

Yes they asked what clutch I had and I said I was automatic.

I guess I can take the block apart and see whats going on. Can I reuse my pistons and rods? I dont have a machine shop in my area, so Im trying to make due with what I have available

 

[tenn-gsx]

Just drop the pan and the main girdle first. Post pics of the main journals at that time. We should have a good idea of wether you can try slipping in new bearings at that time or not.

 

[JuGs]

Just drop the pan and the main girdle first. Post pics of the main journals at that time. We should have a good idea of wether you can try slipping in new bearings at that time or not.

You have some right ideas. But id the girdle is to damaged the block it toast. He might be lucky and can slap new bearings. But like you stated no way to tell unless you take it apart. Theres also a chance if its possible to just slap bearings in it cn just CW 800 miles later.

 

[tenn-gsx]

I understand that it might cw again and quickly. However it will get him on the road and he is only out 50-100 dollars in the mean time. This gives him a way to keep it running if he needs to and it also buys him time to save cash for a proper rebuild without spending a bunch of cash on the current setup. In the long run its better to pull it apart inspect and rebuild or replace whats damaged. In the short run it keeps his car running.

 

[wickedz]

cant I just replace the gridle and crank and bearings if all are damaged? Im talking about used parts here not NEW (other then bearings). Im sure someone on here would have a crank and gridle laying around. Im trying to get around not having to replace ALL internals in the block

 

[tenn-gsx]

you cannot swap a girdle from another engine. You are guranteed a main bearing failure if you do that without doing a complete line bore on the main journals of the block and girdle. If you need to get the car up then pull the girdle and inspect the crank and girdle for gouging or excessive wear. If they still look fresh then just slap in new main bearings and start saving to rebuild the engine or to replace it. What Im telling you is going to be a bandaid that mag get you 50-50K miles. Tere is no way to know how long it will last. It is a temp fix only intended to buy you some time.

 

[JuGs]

you cannot swap a girdle from another engine. You are guranteed a main bearing failure if you do that without doing a complete line bore on the main journals of the block and girdle. If you need to get the car up then pull the girdle and inspect the crank and girdle for gouging or excessive wear. If they still look fresh then just slap in new main bearings and start saving to rebuild the engine or to replace it. What Im telling you is going to be a bandaid that mag get you 50-50K miles. Tere is no way to know how long it will last. It is a temp fix only intended to buy you some time.

Yes this is true but not know how long it will work it may not be worth doing.

 

[wickedz]

well damn show me the money or show me a FULL working block for sale. Im not up for buying burnt cars with "possible" working motors. Im all over the USA on CL and not having much luck. www.dsmwarehouse.com has a complete 6 bolt block. Im waiting on a price as we speak.

 

[tenn-gsx]

Its true that its a gamble and it may not get him anything but a couple miles. But if it works for any extended time it gets him the chance to save for a good engine and if it dont he out less than $100. and some time.

 

[wickedz]

Im going to recheck the harmonic pully and make sure it isnt seperated. But in the mean time, I just got done removing ALL AC componets, and everything else ready to yank block.

ok heres the deal. I did alot more searching and whatnot on the subject. I read that if you have CW, your motor would have a loud noise at higher RPMS. My motor never got loud or showed any signs of getting loud. There is noise when you yank on the crank but you cant see any movment of the crank. When the Harmonic pulley is on and your tugging on that, you can see the outside of the pulley moving, but where the 4 bolts are to the crank, are still and not moving. The harmonic pulley looks to have some cracking going on around the rubber seal, but cant see it on video. Does everyone still think, Im on the CW stage still or just wore out bearings? Thanks everyone for your help.

I watched youtube videos on CW, and saw a 4g63 with crankwalk, and he had MAJOR side to side play, and I have nothing like his video

 

[tenn-gsx]

If the outer end of the pulley moves and not the inside then I would just try a new pulley. Ill go look if I still have one for ya.

EDIT just watched the video. Sorry but you have crank walk.

 

[wickedz]

alright, well I guess theres no way around this. I will just tare out my block and just prep my bay, for a new one.

Im marking this thread as solved. In mean time of trying to find a whole motor, I will try to replace all the hard to get to bay items. That fuel filter looks like it would be hard to get to and whatnot. I can see a full pressure wash coming in future under my hood again, now that I can honestly get to everything

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Pull the pan and take some REAL measurements. Don't jump to conclusions on this one. None of us can truly say yay or nay, how could we? The video shows absolutely nothing and we can only hear the movement. Since when is that definitive proof or validation for " def sum sirius endplay z"? However, I must admit that the video does make me suspicious. But that's why we're here and why you're going to test for sure what your thrust play is.

Report back with the measurements. I believe tolerance on the high-end of the spectrum is .007".

 

[tenn-gsx]

^^^^ if you watch closely you can definately see the CPS plate shift back and forth. He may still get away with new bearings though.

 

[TURBD]

I have had CW 3x's 2 fixed with $3000 rebuilds just to have them CW again or blow a rod out the side of the block. Paid for it. The last time I just bought a used block ($100) pulled out the crank tossed the rest. New bearings ($100) put these parts in my block never pulled the pistons. I am happy. Cost $200 if I get 6 months out of it I will spend another $200 and do it again. I have 1000k's on it now and no end play yet. If it dies before 5000k's I have a G4CS that will get built finally.

 

[wickedz]

I have had CW 3x's 2 fixed with $3000 rebuilds just to have them CW again or blow a rod out the side of the block. Paid for it. The last time I just bought a used block ($100) pulled out the crank tossed the rest. New bearings ($100) put these parts in my block never pulled the pistons. I am happy. Cost $200 if I get 6 months out of it I will spend another $200 and do it again. I have 1000k's on it now and no end play yet. If it dies before 5000k's I have a G4CS that will get built finally.

I found a full 7 bolt block for $400. I think that will be my best bet and just treat it with love.

If CW was not so common in 98's then why the hell are they becoming so reported now? I mean seriously if we are suppose to have the better "fixed" revised bearings, then why do we experience CW more then the 95's ect?

I only enjoyed this car for 12 miles, and paid $2000 for it. Im not wanting to give up on it, but it seems I shouldn't have paid $2000 for it, but I had no way to know until I dug into it like I am.

LOVE HATE RELATIONSHIP ALL OVER AGAIN. DSM