new turbo install. major issues

[bigtimmyd]

Ok, so I finally got my FMIC and 16g installed, but there is a major problem. When I try to spool up the turbo it makes a very loud whining sound. I've done searches and have not found too much on my specific problem. My mechanic thinks the wastegate is stuck open. When we installed everything we had to move the compressor housing clockwise about an inch to get the j pipe to fit. I was kind of hesitant to do this, but it seemed like he knew what he was doing.. Also, (what i'm hoping) the BOV that came with this CX Racing intercooler kit has two nipples for vacuum. I haven't really read about a good way to hook these up. He ended up connecting the top one to the intake manifold with a T that goes to the wastegate actuator. I hope that is the problem. Can someone, give me a straight answer on the proper way to connect this? And I'm wondering the turbo is defective? So frustrating, I'm about to throw the 14b back on.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

Try a boost leak test. If you clocked the turbo and didn't get it completely sealed or if the j-pipe is not sealed all the way it makes a really loud whining noise that can be quite concerning.

 

[jared98gst]

Check for shaft play make sure it's not eating away at the edge of the intake blades
Don't t your bov line
And it should of been easy to find all thua

 

[bigtimmyd]

Check for shaft play make sure it's not eating away at the edge of the intake blades
Don't t your bov line
And it should of been easy to find all thua

Thats what I thought too with t ing into bov line, should I hook the actuator to one line in the bov, and the other to the intake? Would that cause the wastegate to be open?

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

Thats what I thought too with t ing into bov line, should I hook the actuator to one line in the bov, and the other to the intake? Would that cause the wastegate to be open?

The *best* way is to run the bov line straight to/from the intake manifold, and tap a boost source on the J pipe for the wastegate. The closer to the turbo, the better for boost control.

 

[rEclipserGST]

Check your oil lines to the turbo. I had one loose pumping out oil one time. Had an awful whining noise.

 

[bigtimmyd]

when we try to maually open and close the wastegate, we get different readings on the boost gauges, from 7 dash 0 gauge, to opposite, or nothing at all. The whining will change and go away depending on where the wastegate is. I'll check the oil lines. No shaft play. Going to have to wait until tomorrow when he's back to do a boost leak.

 

[miguelmcv]

Same here , My Feed line restriction got plugged by debris and my turbo start winning, Good thing I used to have an extra 14B, and an Extra G4cs build on a side.

 

[bigtimmyd]

Same here , My Feed line restriction got plugged by debris and my turbo start winning, Good thing I used to have an extra 14B, and an Extra G4cs build on a side.

So your turbo and motor went out?

If I need to put my 14b back on its no big deal I guess, I only plan to run around 16psi and there is no shaft play in that... Then I can really figure out what is wrong with this one.

Once I figure this out I am going to get link and put my fic 1050's in and start running e85. I think even with the 14b, it should be pretty good?

 

[miguelmcv]

My turbo went out, my engine still working properly, But because it has debris in the oil, it leads to a premature failure, it will not hold on for a long time, so basically, the engine is trash.
I am dropping a new engine as we talk, so lucky me that I was prepared.

What feed line are you using?, where it is feed from?, I was using the stock 1g feed line from the head and debris clogged the restriction in the line which fried my turbo,, However, the first thing you should do is to do a boost leak test which that's were most common problems we get, after that you should check your wastegate to see if it is working good, and go from there.

 

[bigtimmyd]

Would this happen right away? I'm using the stock 1g line but my kit came with a long braided one. It looks like it is leaking a little out of the top of the turbo where the feed line goes in..

Does anyone know about the two nipple BOV's and the proper way to connect both?

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

Would this happen right away? I'm using the stock 1g line but my kit came with a long braided one. It looks like it is leaking a little out of the top of the turbo where the feed line goes in..

Does anyone know about the two nipple BOV's and the proper way to connect both?

Your BOV is probably a Greddy style/knockoff. My genuine Greddy has two ports, the top one is for normal use, the bottom one is the "quick release" port as Greddy calls it. I researched it before, and the best answer I could come up with is that it was designed with low boost in mind, to help pull the valve open quicker when there isn't a lot of pressure to push it open. I've talked to people at Greddy, and they couldn't really explain how to use it. I've never heard of any exceptional benefits from people that tried using it, and there's no need to cap it off or anything.

 

[LouieAWDTSi]

Your BOV is probably a Greddy style/knockoff. My genuine Greddy has two ports, the top one is for normal use, the bottom one is the "quick release" port as Greddy calls it. I researched it before, and the best answer I could come up with is that it was designed with low boost in mind, to help pull the valve open quicker when there isn't a lot of pressure to push it open. I've talked to people at Greddy, and they couldn't really explain how to use it. I've never heard of any exceptional benefits from people that tried using it, and there's no need to cap it off or anything.

Yeah, I capped my lower nipple on my greddy BOV just to be safe and the main nipple runs straight to my intake manifold. I run my boost controller to my J pipe and the other hose to my wastegate and it holds 16 lbs on my s16g good (no problems with spiking boost).

 

[bigtimmyd]

Your BOV is probably a Greddy style/knockoff. My genuine Greddy has two ports, the top one is for normal use, the bottom one is the "quick release" port as Greddy calls it. I researched it before, and the best answer I could come up with is that it was designed with low boost in mind, to help pull the valve open quicker when there isn't a lot of pressure to push it open. I've talked to people at Greddy, and they couldn't really explain how to use it. I've never heard of any exceptional benefits from people that tried using it, and there's no need to cap it off or anything.

Awesome response!!

Yeah I'll let you guys know what happens tomorrow when I do a boost leak and take off the o2 housing.. Want to drive it tomorrow!!

Taking it apart right now probably just going to throw the 14b back in.

He Put the 14b back in and then realized the j pipe may have been leaking due to bad fitment. That could of been my problem all along huh? Well he took the j pipe down to heat it up and bend it in the right direction. Damn I really wanted to drive it today, and now it may be bittersweet if it's the j pipe, all that work swapping turbos again. A weird j pipe fit could cause that noise like ets said, and it would provide those crazy gauge readings? I guess the 14b can still be fun until I rebuild, as long as I can pull off close to 300hp when I dyno in a few weeks...

 

[bigtimmyd]

Put the 14b back on and yeahhhooo... It was nice @ 16lbs. I can live without the 16g for a while. Got to drive for about an hour, and then it overheated again... But thats a different thread. Please no head gasket!!!!! please!

BTW. This was a turbo from CX Racing. I sent them a message and called them and they are going to get back to me. I'll keep everyone posted on what they say about it and if they are willing to help and/or swap it out.