Major Idle issues

[shad0wsoda]

Just when i thought I had this bug squashed... The car has been sitting under a cover for about 4ish months now and at the end of the summer when it was put under the cover, the idle issues had been fixed but now its back and worse than ever. I've gone through everything i can think of (yet again, vacuum leaks, BISS screw, ISC motor etc... ) and now the idle has crept up to 3000+ rpms. Im attaching the ECM link data log but im still unfamiliar with the program so tinkering with it has been to no avail. Any help would be much appriciated! SOS Send help!!

 

[PlanZero]

If the idle is pegging at 3k I'd check the throttle cable. Make sure the plate is closing all the way. I'd also pull the IAC to verify the pintle in moving properly if you didn't do so. Obviously a BLT if not done already. When you screw the BISS in the idle doesn't drop at all?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Not being harsh but would probably be helpful if you had a profile of mods and what year, etc added.

 

[shad0wsoda]

If the idle is pegging at 3k I'd check the throttle cable. Make sure the plate is closing all the way. I'd also pull the IAC to verify the pintle in moving properly if you didn't do so. Obviously a BLT if not done already. When you screw the BISS in the idle doesn't drop at all?

Checked the throttle cable and its so loose its almost falling off so i dont believe thats it. The IAC is almost brand new so i doubt thats it (although there is a small crack in it from being over tightened, could that be an issue?) Fairly sure no boost leaks but i will double check on that and i've messed around with the biss screw quite a bit (loosened to the point of almost falling out and tightened it almost all the way) and no drastic changes

 

[shad0wsoda]

Not being harsh but would probably be helpful if you had a profile of mods and what year, etc added.

Yes haha i should probably have done that by now but havent gotten around to it
Mods-Bolt-on:
AEM Fuel rail, Magenecor KV85 competition spark wires, big evoIII 16g, Turbosmart vented BOV, TIAL 38mm wastegate, large megan racing FMIC, K&N air intake, stock TB
Mods-Engine:
6-bolt swap, brand new stock 1g block, 722cc DENSO injectors, Unsure fuelpump (yet to pull it), unsure of headers aswell but non-stock, ported & 30 over bored, 3" thermal exhaust, venolia racing rods and pistons

ECM Link v3

 

[Lou98GSX]

what is the voltage on the tps when this happens . it should be below a volt or .63 v .

 

[stars]

If you haven't rebuilt the TB shaft seals go and do so. Also do the F.I.A.V. mod on the TB while it is off. Then you can regain idle speed with the BISS.

 

[2g420aeclipse]

Check the wires from the throttle or iac to check if one of them cut off or something...or like what happen to me check your coolant temperature sensor cause i remember i couldn't figure it out until i did some research and once i went to go check i just barely touch the coolant temperature sensor and broke into pieces i had to replace the sensor and the wire.

 

[chrysler kid]

Check the pcv valve to verify it is functioning correctly and make sure the breather is attached correctly

 

[ThatGS-T]

I had an issue similar to this when i bought my car, ended up being that my alternator was bad so i replaced it and haven't had an issue since, also i know if the EGR valve gets gunked up and dirty to the point of not functioning properly can cause idle issues.

 

[purplerose]

make sure the egr is tight and the gaskets around that area are good, mine did that when I forgot one of the bolts and it left a leak, if the alternator isn't wired up correct (maybe bad) it will act like its doing all it can to live and then die unless you have it going non-stop (tried switching alternators, didn't work, so now I'm just adding another)