New to tuning... new setup

[Calan]

Maybe I don't under why you asked. I never experimented when I had my GM MAF, but would it even run if you selected the wrong input?

I thought maybe she had the wrong MAF style selected for her actual MAF setup, causing erroneous airflow reporting.

But...that's a good point, now that you mention it. I haven't tried that combo either, but I assumed it would run but with improper airflow numbers (maybe in limp mode). I've seen cars run with a weird MAF type + SD combination, or mis-matched MAF type + MAF.

 

[95talongirl]

Thanks! Just watched some of them on how to do the TPS adjustment and the basic ECU setup. Will try to get around to this later and see what happens.

Stupid question, tho... how do you get the tab on the bottom to appear? In the video, it shows a tab on the logging screen that acts like a shortcut to the timing tables. Mine does not have that on there...
Hope its not because this is running off a Mac.

 

[snowborder714]

You mean the buttons at the bottom of the log window for "ECU config" and "Direct access"? If so, it probably is because you're running it on a Mac. I've only seen the software on a Mac once - care to post a screenshot?

 

[95talongirl]

Yup, those buttons!

Didn't get a chance to mess with the car today. But here's a screenshot of what this looks like on the Mac.

 

[snowborder714]

Interesting that it is the same, but without those two buttons. I'll have to ask Tom tomorrow why he didn't put those there.

 

[95talongirl]

That would be great! Maybe there's an update I'm not aware of? Thought it was cool in the video... then was like "wait a second!" !

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, loaded in the file with the changes.. but only ran it for 28 seconds as it kept creeping up lean and didn't seem to want to come back down. So got scared and shut it off. ... now that I think about it.. still needed to do the additional adjustments. I'll try to stop being so freaked out.

But I'll you you what... going to try to get the exhaust on it completely this weekend and check out the pump and return line, as suggested and see if that'll make a difference with the wideband readings.

Again thanks for the support; I'll update this as it goes along.

On a sad note.. noticed the car developed an oil leak. :/ So got to add that to the list of things to do.

 

[razrman8]

I'm so jealous of all the help you're getting! Lol.

 

[95talongirl]

... well one goal is to learn about this so that way perhaps one day I can help some other people out, too!

Ok, so if I'm comprehending this correctly.. it looks like airflowPerRev should be ~0.25 at idle. That looks like an easy variable to start with. Noticed that I did not log that. However, the Airflow seems to be around where the demo video was (3 to 4gm/s) I now see that the Combined fuel trim is all over the board. So it looks like the MAF needs to be worked with some more. Then you add in some fuel to bring the Combined trim back in line, right?

I also noticed that he seems to have the injector correction and deadtime off according to the Wiki. It was closer to the 550's that used to be in it. I'm guessing I should change that.

Anyways, just some thoughts..

 

[snowborder714]

You do have it logged. It bouncing around .31-.34 in the latest log you posted.

Get the injector settings where they should be first, especially global (which you should never touch again). Then follow the fuel trim video to get AirFlowPerRev inline, and then adjust deadtime to bring CombinedFT as close to 0 as possible. The GM MAF will need a fair amount of adjusting, and remember you can use the MAFComp Adjust wizard to help.

TPS is another easy thing to adjust.

If you don't plan on upgrading the firmware, please double click on the AFRatioEst value and set your fuel properties in that so it reads properly. If you upgrade the firmware, the new AFRatioEst will read properly without you needing to set it up. This way you can easily compare just the wideband and AFRatioEst values to make sure you have them matching up.

 

[95talongirl]

ok! I see it now. Just overlooked it.

Ok, sounds simple enough.... That'll be this weekend's project along with fixing the oil leak.

 

[Calan]

and remember you can use the MAFComp Adjust wizard to help.

And be sure to check out the section on how to extend the closed loop range so that you get more data points with this tool.

(the link on the Wiki escapes me at the moment...Brian?)

 

[95talongirl]

^

Saw that in the demo video on fuel trim.. and noticed that one of the sections have been adjusted up. However, he copied that table into the one above it and did not see this done on the log...

.. its starting to make a little more sense.

 

[Calan]

If you haven't seen it yet, this article may give you some ideas on how to better optimize the data display in ECMlink, and make it a bit easier to deal with the information overload.

Or it may not.

 

[snowborder714]

Isn't there a rule about self promotion?

And be sure to check out the section on how to extend the closed loop range so that you get more data points with this tool.

(the link on the Wiki escapes me at the moment...Brian?)

Post #21

 

[Calan]

Isn't there a rule about self promotion?

Do we REALLY wanna go there?

 

[95talongirl]

Note to those who use a Mac... which is probably not many: In order to get the new version of ECMlink to work, you have to right click on the icon in the Applications folder and check the "open in 32 bit" box.

Those missing buttons are now there.

 

[95talongirl]

Oh boy! she runs again.

Take 2:

After a reseal of the oil pan, and finally getting the exhaust modified to fit the downpipe and bolted up... we have a run! Ok well, another idle log.

The A/f's are definatly more in line now. So guess most of that was the fact it was running off an open DP. Also noticed that the WB gauge might be bad. The laptop was getting readings of 14.9-15.0 give or take a few; but the gauge itself would be reading erradic, or high 17's or just dashes. I mean, it did sit in the garage over the winter and might have got damaged. :/

This is on the same settings as the previous log. It seems to be idling a bit better. So now the question is.. where so I go from here? tune it for a smooth idle, then take it out? It's not *quite* street ready, as there's a few little issues that need to be addressed still.. but its about 98% back together.

 

[snowborder714]

An idle log is only helpful if the car is up to operating temps.

Judging by the end of that log, your fuel trims are way out of whack. Grab a log with it up to temp and see how they're acting.

 

[95talongirl]

Ok will do! Thanks!

 

[jnf63]

Also noticed that the WB gauge might be bad. The laptop was getting readings of 14.9-15.0 give or take a few; but the gauge itself would be reading erradic, or high 17's or just dashes.

An idle log is only helpful if the car is up to operating temps.

I have definitely learned a lot from Brian, but he, and the others guiding you, know much more than me. I can suggest some simple idle adjustments. These suggestions would be possible changes prior to getting your TSi up to operating temperature, during idle, for a new log to post.

In the RPM/TPS tab, to lower your TPSVolts from your current .65 to .63, change your TPS Offset to -5 ([possibly to -6] from your current -4). Even though your ThrotPos is 0%, the TPSVolts can be lowered.

In the Fuel tab, adjust the values to complement your 650cc injectors by making the Global Fuel near -30.9% with a Global Deadtime closer to 210 usecs. Since these changes should affect other adjustments, you could run another idle log after these changes. Better Active MAF Compensation changes could follow with further idle log interpretations.

Apparently, your log lacks the ISCPosition value. You should "Capture" and "Display" the ISCPosition in your logs. Once displayed, your ISCPosition should be around 30. If your logged ISCPosition is above 30 (E.g. 45), then turn your BISS screw counter-clockwise (out) to decrease your ISCPosition value. In contrast, if your logged ISCPosition is below 30 (E.g. 24), then turn your BISS screw clockwise (in) to increase your ISCPosition value.

...After logging your idle based on the above ideas, you could proceed to setting your AirflowPerRev. In the MAF Comp tab, adjust your values to reach an AirflowPerRev of around .25 gm/rev (E.g. from your current reading around .28 gm/rev*) by adjusting your fuel sliders at 0 Hz to 600 Hz to achieve a reading of around .25 gm/rev. (*If your AirflowPerRev value remains above .25 gm/rev, then decrease [move sliders down] your MAF Comp's Adj % to reach a .25 gm/rev value.)

...Following these adjustments, and using another new idle log, you could adjust your Global Deadtime to achieve around a 0% CombinedFT % value during idle. If you increase your Deadtime, then you decrease your logged CombinedFT % value. In contrast, if you decrease your Deadtime, then you increase your logged CombinedFT % value.

Regarding you're WB gauge, I have seen that some gauges (like an AEM WB gauge) do not correlate with DSMlink very nicely. If you have an AEM, then there are several ideas for having it correlate better. Nevertheless, a local's AEM WB frequently displays dashes, and it jumps around erratically, while the logged values are quite different. aemwb [ECMTuning - wiki]; dsmlinkloggableparams [ECMTuning - wiki]


If any of my ideas conflict with Brian's, or the others' guiding you, then follow their advice because their game plan is likely to be more appropriate.

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, well... FINIALLY got to drive the car. Set the idle and such... ran it around town and on the freeway at about 60mph. This is the log form that. I'm going to now go back and make some of the aformentioned adjustments. Figures I'd post it and see what you all think as it sits...

FYI.. the AFRatioEST is closer almost spot on to what the WB is reading. I've heard that there is a bug in the Link software that caues the WB to read off on the computer screen... So I've been looking at the EST and the gauge.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Ok, well... FINIALLY got to drive the car. Set the idle and such... ran it around town and on the freeway at about 60mph. This is the log form that. I'm going to now go back and make some of the aformentioned adjustments. Figures I'd post it and see what you all think as it sits...

FYI.. the AFRatioEST is closer almost spot on to what the WB is reading. I've heard that there is a bug in the Link software that caues the WB to read off on the computer screen... So I've been looking at the EST and the gauge.

That's why there is different options for the AEM Wideband. Try the one that says something "R1". It's another type of AEM Wideband sensor to input, that one works spot on for me, the others were off.

Assuming you have all your fuel settings right, use the MAFCOMP Adjust, use the recommended settings (white dots on your graph) and then get another log, then from there dial it in manually to get your trims spot on. That's the way I do it, after I do that, my trims are usually spot on, and if off it's like +/- 2% which is still acceptable. I don't necessary follow what this guide says although it's an excellent guide. This works for me, my car drives like stock and drives better than a whole bunch I have driven.

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[95talongirl]

Well, looks like got some work cut out for me.... the MAC version seems to be missing things or just in a different spot. Did make a few changed, went to get a datalog.. then the car chucked the water pump belt. DOH! So... on hold again until I get a few new belts.

As for the WB's.. I've tried all the AEM options, and the closest one was the INlineUEGO thus far. I'm going to try the LINWB per the link above and see what happens.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sorry, mary about your belt simple things though, im learning too on this thread.