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Tfitch90

Tfitch90

10+ Year Contributor
410
1
Jun 26, 2011
Bowie, Maryland
Hello tuning world ! Ok I got a 1g build going on. I have everything so far needed engine wise, now its time to think about tuning. DSMlink is a must. I assume I have to send out my ecu and get it "socketed" I think thats what its called. My real question is about MAF's. Which one is best to use and why. Ive searched about descriptions of the whole GM MAF and 1g and 2g, and MAFT and speed densitity. Ive had no luck. So going off my mods whats best to use ? I do plan on using 272 kelford cams. My profile says PR intercooler, im going to use VRSF. Im aiming between 380 and 400 HP. I would like to use watever is more simple but if one is just a better choice I will go with that one. If you have any links about the MAF's please post I would like to read about it.
 
Tfitch90 said:
Hello tuning world ! Ok I got a 1g build going on. I have everything so far needed engine wise, now its time to think about tuning. DSMlink is a must. I assume I have to send out my ecu and get it "socketed" I think thats what its called. My real question is about MAF's. Which one is best to use and why. Ive searched about descriptions of the whole GM MAF and 1g and 2g, and MAFT and speed densitity. Ive had no luck. So going off my mods whats best to use ? I do plan on using 272 kelford cams. My profile says PR intercooler, im going to use VRSF. Im aiming between 380 and 400 HP. I would like to use watever is more simple but if one is just a better choice I will go with that one. If you have any links about the MAF's please post I would like to read about it.
Click to expand...

Evo MAS or speed density.
 
Tfitch90 said:
What does one do that the other doesnt to, better yet what do the others do that the 1g cant do.
Click to expand...

1g is limited in flow, based on your goals it will be a restriction. There is a way around this in DSMlink, however, the 1g MAS is still a restriction, whereas the Evo MAS will flow quite a bit more. As far as dial in, the Evo MAS will be easier to dial in than speed density, and the drivability would be comparable. Some people like the ability to log boost via their MAP that you wouldn't have with a MAS setup(assuming your EGR would be tied up with a wideband and you'd still have a functioning front o2). The Evo/Montero MAS setup would be the cheaper route as well.
 
Run anything but the 1g maf

here is an example of how bad a 1g maf signal can start to take a crap...
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1g vs 2g maf
 

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Tfitch90 said:
Yeaaaa im not even going to lie to you I heard nothin but good things from them so lets just say I ran across the street with out looking. What would you suggest ?
Click to expand...

Some much less aggressive "standard" 272's for about half the price... not to mention the money you'll save by not having to run dual springs or beehives in the head.
 
Stock springs can handle run-of-the-mill 272 cams to 7500k RPMs or so with no issues, IF they are in good shape and haven't lost any pressure or height. Once you go to an aggressive ramp rate (like the Kelfords) or higher rev limit, heavier springs become a necessity.

At 400whp though (and I assume a stockish rev limit), you aren't going to be pushing enough air to really take advantage of the Kelfords, and they may even cause drivability or minor tuning issues on a small setup, but that's just a hunch. Regardless, the extra money spent on them could be put elsewhere for better gains.
 
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Man there are so many variations on this now. REmember when it was 1G or 2G MAF and that was it? Now its 1G,2G,GM3,GM3.5,Evo or none (SD).

For your goals and setup, anything but a 1G will work. I think the GM3.5 is overkill for you and is just more work to get it to fit. Do you want to run blow-through(MAf after the turbo)? If so, you should go for a 3" GM with the ECMlink GM MAf cable. That setup will also allow you to log aftermarket sensors and easily switch to SD. If you don't want blow through and are 100% sure you don't want to ever try SD, then the EVO 8 is probably your best bet for the money.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
edged1g said:
Man there are so many variations on this now. REmember when it was 1G or 2G MAF and that was it?
Click to expand...

I remember when there was nothing but carburetors (and not even the really good ones) and vacuum advance distributors. I was in my mid to late 20's when the first production EFI systems became common. :)

edged1g said:
For your goals and setup, anything but a 1G will work. I think the GM3.5 is overkill for you and is just more work to get it to fit.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

With ECMLink V3, I just don't see the need to run a GM MAF these days. It's just as easy (easier and cheaper in fact) to set up and tune SD and gain more benefits without the hassle. My advice is to either upgrade to a plug and play drop-in MAF, or switch to SD.
 
Tfitch90 said:
O ok thanks for the help I will go with speed density and link.
Click to expand...

Well, that is a good combo, but I didn't say to jump straight into SD necessarily. :)

Just to be clear, all I'm saying is that IMO, SD would be a better choice than a GM MAF. For your goals, a "bolt-on" MAF upgrade as Jon91TSi mentioned may be a better choice while you learn to tune, depending on how easily you pick up on things and grasp the concepts of how SD and MAFs work.
 
Ok Time to do some more part shopping ! I dont think extrememepsi carry these things any Suggestions on where to look. You kind of lost me on UICP. My guess is upper intercooler pipe. Im searching now.
 
This SD bundle is put together and sold by ecmlink. What you referenced is just the cable. You will need the sensors to feed that cable the info. Here are the sensors ECMTuning, Inc. and here is there version of the cable ECMTuning, Inc.

I would just like to reiterate that it is a task to tune SD. I tuned on a MAF before switching to SD and it was still a task to learn. I eventually had a knowledgeable tuner show me the ropes on my first outing (tuning session). Just please make sure that the tuners you are referring to are up to the task. I am not saying they are not, just want you to get the right guidance.

Robert

Edit: When you buy an IAT they give you a bung. It will either be steel or aluminum. If you have an aluminum UICP then you need an aluminum bung if you have a steel UICP the you need a steel one. If a magnet sticks to your UICP then you need a steel if a magnet does not stick, it is aluminum.
 
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