New to tuning... new setup

[doubleclutch99]

Yeah i only removed mine because i had one to many fried ecu's because of a bad or failing isc. some day i'll buy a new one but for now it works fine without it. idle and cruise should be in closed loop as pointed out. air flow per rev looks a little low if anything. but your injector settings are still off according to the link settings.

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, cool.
Thanks for the clarification on OL and CL for idle, as well.

So what setting should they be at? I pulled the numbers from the ECMLink's site.. Said to set them to -30.9% and a deadtime of 210. They are FiC 650's.

Yea it was weird, thought had it dialed in to the .25/.26ish range, then all of a sudden it changed. . Now I'm beginning to see why people get frustrated with MAF's. I also read that with the GM MAF, I should be using the MAF clamp to prevent erratic signals to the computer when it's under load. Anyone use this with the GM MAF? I do notice that it does get a little stutter when it reaches around 17-19psi... but figured it was because of it going really rich. Maybe its the MAF?

It was idling much better yesterday. About to head out there and see if its going to be nice today.

 

[doubleclutch99]

Stuttering you say? the first thing i'd do is a compression test and then a boost leak test and post up the results. i have a theory but i need to see some numbers before i tell ya what i think.

 

[95talongirl]

Oh yeah?

Well, should hit 500 miles this weekend, then it's "oil change and check everything out time".

Also just ordered a new IAC. It set a P505 "idle control malfunction code", and started the surging again. It is old, so won't hurt regardless.

 

[95talongirl]

Well.........

Put a new IAC on it. Brought the idle back in line. Also set the base idle again and checked for vacuum leaks. So then after it warmed up, played with the setting again to see where they were at. Took it for a drive. This was the result.

BUT THEN..... it started idling like shit again. No more surging; but it wants to be at 2000... then if you hit the gas, it'll stick at 2500. (warm start, waiting for it to cool off to see if it does it cold) But if you take it for a drive it eventually calms back down to where it was set at: 950. I have NO idea what's going on with it anymore. I've never seen anything act quite like this.

 

[Chicken Patty]

I can't view it on my phone but make sure your throttle cable is not too tensed where it might slightly hold the throttle open. When it's idling high, does link show 0% throttle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GSXSixteenG]

From the log, the throttle positive never returns back to 0% after the first 60 or so seconds. I would look into the tps or the throttle cable.

Check here for proper tps adjustment http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/324431-how-adjust-throttle-position-sensor-tps.html

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, thank you!!

It's weird cause either I'm just overlooking things... Or just not looking in the right spot? but where did you see the throttle not at 0? Cause it shows 0 on my end? But I am looking at the streaming data. Maybe I need to ditch this MacBook for tuning.....

 

[Chicken Patty]

There's a few areas in the log where it's at 4%, or around there and it's idling a bit high. Just adjust your TPS as per the guide posted above, also make sure the cable is not pulling the throttle open and that the throttle body is closing all the way.

 

[95talongirl]

Thank you! Did some adjustments, and it seems to idle better now.

Taking the car on a trip tomorrow to the Monster Mopar event, so I'll snag some logs and see what's going on with it now that the idle seems to be smoother.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Thank you! Did some adjustments, and it seems to idle better now.

Taking the car on a trip tomorrow to the Monster Mopar event, so I'll snag some logs and see what's going on with it now that the idle seems to be smoother.

What adjustment did you make, just for the record so we know what you have done.

 

[95talongirl]

Alrighty, back from the dead.

The adjustment to the TPS was using the feeler gauge in the above link. Seems to be ok now.

SO.. now that I'm back from a 3-week stay in TX for work, had a chance to bring the car back out to tackle this cutting out issue. Took the boost controller out and had the car running off WG pressure, so see if this a boost related issue or perhaps a timing/fueling issue. It still wanted to cut out at about the same rpm range... (5000rpm-ish) Noticed that the car was running pig rich during this time; that it went into open loop, and thus no fuel compensation. Took a closer look at the direct access logs, and noticed that the program is set to go into open loop at 8% throttle at around the RPM range in question. In one of the videos in ECMlink's site, it stated to bump these values to more around 50% across the board, and also bump the open loop thresh holds. Did this, and saved it to the computer. Took the car for a spin.... felt quite a bit better. Far less breaking up! But it still was there...

So the question is, am I on the right track as to solving this problem? It does seem to be related to the fact that its drowning on fuel since there's no fuel trim correction for an under load condition since it pops into open loop.

Any other suggestions? Attached is a log from before the adjustments to the open loop thresh hold.

The car runs GREAT when driven normally...

 

[EvilTSi_97]

Alrighty, back from the dead.

The adjustment to the TPS was using the feeler gauge in the above link. Seems to be ok now.

SO.. now that I'm back from a 3-week stay in TX for work, had a chance to bring the car back out to tackle this cutting out issue. Took the boost controller out and had the car running off WG pressure, so see if this a boost related issue or perhaps a timing/fueling issue. It still wanted to cut out at about the same rpm range... (5000rpm-ish) Noticed that the car was running pig rich during this time; that it went into open loop, and thus no fuel compensation. Took a closer look at the direct access logs, and noticed that the program is set to go into open loop at 8% throttle at around the RPM range in question. In one of the videos in ECMlink's site, it stated to bump these values to more around 50% across the board, and also bump the open loop thresh holds. Did this, and saved it to the computer. Took the car for a spin.... felt quite a bit better. Far less breaking up! But it still was there...

So the question is, am I on the right track as to solving this problem? It does seem to be related to the fact that its drowning on fuel since there's no fuel trim correction for an under load condition since it pops into open loop.

Any other suggestions? Attached is a log from before the adjustments to the open loop thresh hold.

The car runs GREAT when driven normally...

1. Looking at the logs, your AFR under WOT conditions is doing what it's supposed to be doing. If you look in the Direct Access table, you have your target AFR set to 10.1 for almost all the WOT conditions you'll hit under boost. I'm not sure if this is what you're referring to as running pig rich. If you want to lean it out a little bit, we can always help you change the DA table around. I would focus on getting everything running great, first.

2. Looking at AFRatioEst and your Wideband, the readings aren't too far off. Nothing sticks out like a sore thumb. There are some hiccups, but as far as your WOT pulls go, it looks pretty steady.

3. Bumping up those values for Open-loop thresholds are meant to capture more closed-loop data for the CombinedFT function. I do know people who leave those up there and don't have any issues. I suppose it's a matter of personal choice, really.

4. Go ahead and run the TPSAdjust tool again. It's showing 97% for your WOT pull. Might as well have it set correctly since the tool is there

5. I notice you have a few options set that are really only for the SD users. They aren't hurting you, but might cause less confusion for others. For example, "Disable Airflow Smoothing with SD Operation" and "Disable MAF Compensation w/ SD Operation" are both checked. Again, they aren't hurting you but to keep things clear, wouldn't hurt to uncheck them.

6. Another user already suggested this, but go ahead and drop your Coolant CEL to around 221 degrees or so. We all know the factory gauges aren't too accurate and this can save your tail if you ever have any overheating issues. This is a personal preference, but I would change your boost gauge to show knock.

What exactly does it feel like at the 5000ish mark? Does it feel like hitting fuel cut, like a brick wall, or just a minor hiccup? Is this the only issue you're having right now?

I would try to focus on getting as much closed-loop data run through the CombinedFT tool as possible. Again, it does look like you're going on the right track, though.

 

[doubleclutch99]

Pull up the log and look at your wide open throttle and you'll see that it only goes to 97 %. now right click on the log and select tps adjust and it will give you the suggestion of where it wants to be . enable the little check box to auto adjust.

btw you should only need to adjust the open loop thresh holds for idle and cruise tuning to fine tune maf comp adjustment . once you've done that you should set those open loop settings back to stock by hitting the little black double arrow in the tool bar on the direct access open loop thresh holds page.
if you hit it once it should show you stock settings then save to ecu. you have to do this with the engine off and the key on if memory serves me right.

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, I guess I'm confusing myself again. !

I'll run the adjust tool again today and see what happens. This is the only issue the car has... and it feels like a "breaking" up type deal... as I have noticed that some times it'll smooth out some if I keep on it.

Other than that, it runs great... took it to Indy and back and Chicago with no issues. So it's got to be something silly; I'd think.

I'll post another one later. TY!

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, got a few logs here. I actually took this car to a test/tune at the track to make sure to get some clean pulls. Car was (and still is) running off wastegate pressure only. 10psi is the max. The boostest in the logs are WAY off. Not sure why this is....

The first log is a run where the car broke up badly in 2nd and 3rd.

The second log, i loaded in some changes from a previous tune on the old car. I kinda figured this problem was fuel/timing related.... so figured, what the heck.... let's try the tune from the previous car. !! It cleared RIGHT up. Car felt so much better....

But now I have a few questions.... the second log's adjustments were done with the sliders. So how can you coorlate these with using the tables in the direct access part? (As I've heard this is a better way to tune..) Or would it just be better to use the sliders?

Also, as mentioned above, what is up with the boostest? The gauge showed a solid 10psi through out the pull, and the boostest would spike to like 22-26psi. It was no where near that. Is this a problem, so can it just be ignored?

 

[doubleclutch99]

You still need to change your openloop thresh holds back to stock values, or the ecu tries to stay in closed loop longer than normal. you only need to change them to do the extended maf calibration.

 

[95talongirl]

ok! I'll fix that tomorrow.

 

[95talongirl]

Well... I think I've been talked into getting the SD setup for this. ... Was going to wait on it; but it seems everyone I talk to says to not waste the time with the GM MAF.

Also was told that the boost est would be off since I'm not really using a MAP sensor and thus the computer really doesn't know where the boost is. This is kinda what I was thinking... because unless there's some calculations on the MAF hz to convert it into psi, how would the computer know? Unless it goes off something like load factor?