New Car :) 98 Spyder GST - What am I looking at?

[Afizzle]

Got a new car today and it has weird stuff under the hood was wondering if you guys could help me identify these things and help make corrections so I dont damage the motor

80k miles
No leaks or problems
Just drove it 3 hours home smooth as butter

whats that little clear thing by the battery and what kind of BOV is that
I know its gotta get recirculated but doesnt look like it has an outlet like most bovs

enjoy

 

[idkiliketurbos]

First off, looks like a really clean engine bay. Looks completely stock besides the HKS style blow off valve(might be real but might not be), boost controller, and the K&N FIPK. I'd get a recirculation kit for the blow off valve like you already mentioned. Do you know when the timing belt, timing components, and the water pump were last changed? I'd also disconnect the boost controller until you get a boost gauge so you can see what boost you are actually running.

 

[STORTZ77]

Looks like a hks super sqv bov to me, not 100 % sure though and what "clear thing by the battery" are you referring too?

 

[WES_393]

The clear case coming from the battery is an inline fuse. They are typically used when hooking up sound systems and whatnot. So I'm assuming the car has an aftermarket stereo, right?

The BOV looks like your average HKS SSQV knock-off. They don't even try to make them look real anymore. There is a fitting made for the SSQV so that it can be recirculated, but I'm not sure how compatible real and fake HKS parts are. It's definitely worth looking into though.

Overall the car looks nice! With only 80k miles its practically new.

 

[bewstin]

Looks nice under the hood, very clean. Like he said above, make sure you know when the timing belt was last replaced, if you dont know, then deffinatly put that as your first thing to do. Also try to get a recirculating BOV on there. When they vent to atmosphere without a maf translator, it will make the car run rich in between shifts and stall out occasionally. Other than that looks good man!

 

[STORTZ77]

HKS Super SQV Blow Off Valve Recirculation Fitting - Nippon Power

There is a link for a recirculation fitting, but like said above its unknown if that will work with a fake as yours appears to be. My suggestion would be to switch to a different brand bov.

 

[Afizzle]

thanks guys these forums are the shit!

i have a friend with a type s that were going to put on tomorrow. He said he has the flange for it, how do I put it on the car tho? is there any welding that needs to be done

the boost controller is going bye bye asap. I already know those things ruin cars and it kinda scared me when i popped the hood and saw that someone had been driving with it already

1 of you gys asked if it had a stereo, it does have a new head unit but nothing else i think

about the timing belt. I asked about it cause someone told me about that common problem and they had no idea when it was changed should I just do it? i dont mind cause im going to keep this car forever but is there anyway i can pull the timing case off and tell if it needs to be replaced

oh and im going to run a boost leak test tomorrow too. is there anyway possible for me to damage the car doing this and is there any proper protocol

was just gonna put the blt on the turbo and run 10-15 psi through the system is that all there is to it

 

[STORTZ77]

Its nearly impossible to tell how long a timing belt has been on, my suggestion is to just replace it if you do not know when it was last replaced. Id also check the weep hole on the water pump while you are in there, better to check it while the timing belt is off now then have to redo all the work again later. As far as putting on the other bov, yes the other flange has to welded on.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

I'd look in the trunk and see if there are wires ran for an amp, because they went somewhere, and I have no idea where the power wire would go besides to the trunk. For the type s, if the flange he has is to slip into the stock 2g upper intercooler pipe, then it will go right in, otherwise you might have to fab up something to work. As far as the timing belt, unless the tensioner, pulleys, and the belt all look literally brand new, I'd change all of the parts with OEM mitsubishi parts. It is way cheaper to buy a timing belt kit rather than to at the very least have to replace bent valves, a head gasket, probably valve guides, head resurface, and still have to buy the timing components. As long as you take care of the car (which so far it seems like you will), the car will take care of you and your boosting needs.

 

[Afizzle]

alright thanks guys, just gonna go ahead and do the timing so I can boost with confidence

should i buy just the timing belt or any other timing components

oh and after the maintenance is done, what are a few small things I can do to increase horsepower safely as i prepare for a bigger turbo

i havent done a ton of research but just looking at the turbo its pretty easy to tell its not good for much hp . i did look in trunk for any am stereo stuff and theres nothing there

 

[STORTZ77]

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

That would be my suggestion. also as far as your questions about upgrading check out the upgrade path under the tech drop down at the top of the site lots of useful info in there rather then me explaining .

Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

There is a link for the upgrade path in case you were having trouble finding it.

 

[awd4u]

get the greddy or the gates timing belt, if you get one of those you never have to replace it again.

 

[STORTZ77]

i would never run any belt regardless of the brand longer then 60k miles, no matter the name on the belt. The components the belt is spinning on are just, if not, more important to how the belt is going to wear.

 

[WES_393]

get the greddy or the gates timing belt, if you get one of those you never have to replace it again.

Not true. The timing belt and components should be replaced at (or before) the standard service interval of 60k miles. Regardless of rating, material, design, color, etc. Kevlar belts are just considered a "security blanket" on highly modified engines. The stock Mitsubishi and Gates belts have been proven to handle much more stress than most will ever put them through.

 

[gieri002]

Good call on the boost leak test. It sounds like you're heading in the right direction! It may just be me but that engine bay doesn't look like one that was deprived of maintenance. Just pop the top timing belt cover off and I bet you will find it has already been replaced.

 

[Afizzle]

figgered you guys would want some pics since its in the shape it is

Spyder Photos by spydergstdude | Photobucket

the engine bay is a lil different than the pics. reverted the boost controller back to stock by removing the controller and putting new lines back on to run it on stock boost. Also removed the BOV in the pictures and replaced it with the stock 2g for now. the middle intercooler piping had been modified so had to run to a junkyard and found a good one for 20 bucks. got the pipe on and the bov is recirculated. I think the car is a lot happier and running a lil better now that the bov is recirculated and its back on stock boost.

Also followed the directions on that guide and have a dejon tool recirculating intake on the way and a kotek 3 pod pillar. For the pod I ordered a prosport evo digital boost, water temp, and oil pressure gauges.

im ordering wideband soon but have a question about a downpipe. is an ebay one okay? for exhaust im goign with 3" thermal, but the downpipe looks liek it wouldnt matter brand. any advice on that would be much appreciated.

oh and the timing belt cover was removed and the belt looks brand new so I guess ill wait another 10k miles or so to do it

 

[DSM1G90]

Ya on the Mitsu OEM .. a MD 326059 belt.

 

[gieri002]

...
oh and the timing belt cover was removed and the belt looks brand new so I guess ill wait another 10k miles or so to do it

That's great news!

 

[curt-s]

Not true. The timing belt and components should be replaced at (or before) the standard service interval of 60k miles. Regardless of rating, material, design, color, etc. Kevlar belts are just considered a "security blanket" on highly modified engines. The stock Mitsubishi and Gates belts have been proven to handle much more stress than most will ever put them through.

Really, 60k is longer than most will ever need to change the belt at because most engine rebuilds I've seen around pop long before that. So saying "you'll never have to change it again" is accurate to a certain degree, provided you don't reuse the belt on the next rebuild

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I'd do timing belt ASAP regardless of what it looks like...