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Need help with Heat it’s cold in Michigan

Posted by RayGe13, Feb 16, 2020

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  1. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

    10
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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    I recently was given a 1997 Eagle Talon TSI AWD for free it sat in my buddies garage since 2010. I got it running new battery ,brakes,clutch master cylinder. My problem is I get heat after the car warms up but it quickly goes away. I’ve replaced thermostat and radiator. I’ve flushed out the heater core and it flows nice. Upper radiator hose get hot but lower is ice cold. any ideas guys?
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  2. 609DSM

    609DSM Proven Member

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    Joined Aug 13, 2019
    Princeton, New Jersey
    If I remember correctly that is normal for all 2g eclipse and talon 420a and 4g63t. My lower radiator hose is cold too, that is the inlet hose for the coolant to the engine. Heat rises and cold is more dense that is why it is at the bottom. Does you temp gauge stay in the middle of its range? If it goes above or below then you have a problem.

    Can you specify for us what you mean by you get heat but it quickly goes away?
     

    Street Build 278  1

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse N/T
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  3. 609DSM

    609DSM Proven Member

    235
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    Joined Aug 13, 2019
    Princeton, New Jersey
    Depending on the condition sounds like you got a killer deal my friend!
     

    Street Build 278  1

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse N/T
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  4. DSMPT

    DSMPT Proven Member

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    Joined Jun 12, 2014
    Japan / Mexico, Arizona
    Could be the heater control wire is not connected, cut or broken. Sounds like it's not controlling the temp at the heater core.
     

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · automatic · 2G DSM
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  5. tk106

    tk106 Supporting Member

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    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Did you get all the air out of the coolant system?
     

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    2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Classic
    awd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

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    93 Civic 4 Door -sold-
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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  6. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    Pretty sure I did. I let it run with the cap off till it got up to temp. Put the cap back on and drove it for about 15 minutes let it cool and open the cap. It was full.
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  7. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    Isn’t the temp control cable driven? It blows hot when I get moving it cools in about 15 seconds. It’s like I’m not getting coolant flow. Bad water pump?
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  8. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

    10
    1
    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    Gauge stays in the middle never overheated yet but it is also between 10 and 40 degrees outside where I live during the winter. If I start my car and let it warm up to normal operating temp and get in my car and turn the blower motor on it blows hot for a few seconds and gradually get cold over a span of 10-15 seconds.
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  9. tk106

    tk106 Supporting Member

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    You want the tstat to open before putting the cap back on. I’d bet you have air in there.
     

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    2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Classic
    awd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

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    93 Civic 4 Door -sold-
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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    12.625 @ 111.42 · 1G DSM
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  10. DSMPT

    DSMPT Proven Member

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    Japan / Mexico, Arizona
    Yes it's cable driven and I meant "cable". It's just Mitsubishi call it "heater control wire".
    As you said you checked the flow in the heater core and the thermostat, could be the coolant temp is still low, bad water pump, too much air in the coolant lines or the temp knob/cable is not working to control the temp at the heater core.
     

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  11. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    Right rear of rocker is rusted out and bottom of driver door. Front strut powers have a couple minor rust holes. Other than that she’s solid. Had to take rear wheel off in his garage because the brake was seized up but I drove it home. The the clutch master cylinder started puking into the car. But what could I ask for for sitting for 9 years? Lol can’t beat free. Lol
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  12. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    How long should that take I let it run for about 15 minutes before putting the cap on. Think I should wait longer?
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  13. tk106

    tk106 Supporting Member

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    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Yes. It’s cold so it’ll take longer. I wait until the fan turns on. You can hold the rpms at 3k to get there faster.
     

    284  3

    2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Classic
    awd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    285  4

    93 Civic 4 Door -sold-
    fwd · manual · Misc Vehicles

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    12.625 @ 111.42 · 1G DSM
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  14. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    I’ll give that a try after work tomorrow.
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  15. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

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    wampum, Pennsylvania
    What your describing sounds like typical clogged heater core to me, you might want to buy a drill powered water pump from Harbor freight and run a half gallon or so of CLR or some type of rust remover through it for half hour or so, then flush it with water until its clear and then refill it.
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  16. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    I
    I have already tried that water was running freely threw heater core.
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  17. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

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    Even if water is running through it, if there is buildup on the inside of the core it wont conduct heat from the water to the core itself, water will run right through it and never lose any of its heat.
     

    Drag Race Build 3K  24

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  18. RayGe13

    RayGe13 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 16, 2020
    Taylor, Michigan
    I’ll have to try grabbing both those hoses and making sure they both are hot. Thank you for your input that does make sense.
     

    Street Build 124  2

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  19. luv2rallye

    luv2rallye DSM Wiseman

    7,535
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    Minneapolis, Minnesota
    After thermostat opens (engine warm) with rad cap off, squeeze bottom rad hose many times to purge air out while engine running. Also can cover 1/2 of rad up with cardboard (in between rad and AC condenser).
     

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    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    14.200 @ 95.000 · 2G DSM
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  20. smbgsx

    smbgsx Proven Member

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    Savage, Minnesota
    As stated above, sounds like the heater core. You can use an infrared thermometer to check temp difference between heater core inlet/outlet hoses. CLR also works really well as stated. On a really neglected Jeep I had to fill the heater core with CLR and let it sit for about an hour or so before back flushing it again. I didn't get heat back until after I let it sit in there. Temps at the vents jumped up 50-degrees F at about 65-degrees F ambient temp.

    Also, Prestone makes a kit that has detergent and a T you can splice into your heater core hose that is threaded for a garden hose. So you can backflush your entire coming system at home. Then a cap screws onto the T.
    CLR would prolly be enough tho
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    436 whp · 340 lb/ft · 2G DSM
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  21. nismojones

    nismojones Proven Member

    52
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    Joined Jan 10, 2008
    Eastpoint, Michigan
    Jack up the front of the car while bleeding the coolant, it’ll help
     
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  22. gsxitement

    gsxitement Proven Member

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    staten island, New York
    I agree it sounds like there's air in there. Get a burp bucket and let the car run for a good long time to ensure you're getting all the air out. Rev it a couple times. Also, if it's that cold out, like low teens and almost single digits, it just might be that the radiator is losing any heat it has. You can use a piece of cardboard to block off part of the radiator. It's a stretch, but in really cold climates it works.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    11.930 @ 119.000 · 2G DSM
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  23. Lou98GSX

    Lou98GSX Proven Member

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    Carmel, New York
    both hoses coming out of the heater core should be hot . if one hose feels hotter than the other then the core is partially plugged . another thing is did you install the thermostat the right way . there is a jiggle pin on it that has to face in a certain direction so it can bleed all the air out.
     
  24. victors_97dsm

    victors_97dsm Supporting Member

    22
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    Joined Aug 28, 2010
    sierra vista, Arizona
    Try looking into replacing the coolant temp sensor and/or radiator
     
  25. Flying Eagle

    Flying Eagle Probationary Member

    2
    1
    Joined Oct 28, 2005
    Ottawa,
    As stated above, air in the system is the indicator. Heat working until RPM’s come down usually spells air in the system not allowing a syphon action to occur across the core. Pump gets more volume moving with increase in rpm, but at idle it suffers.

    Purchase a spill free funnel kit. Others have mentioned that raising the front end can help but mostly, it’s having a reservoir that is higher than the rest of the system, where air can purge to, is key!

    Burping the system cannot be accomplished fully, unless you have fluid up above your rad cap point. DSM’s make it harder than with CSM’s and Galant, where the “rad” cap is on the radiator with the thermostat being lower. This allows air to move to what should be the highest point in the system.

    The spill free funnel kit contains either a yellow bucket or a clear bucket with a larger assortment of attachment hardware and angle adapters. It’s money well spent and will allow you to succeed in burping the system. Grabbing the upper hose and squeezing it gets those pesky high lying bubbles to purge out but how are you going to do that if the cap is off and the radiator is under filled? Yes, the cap allows that system to draw coolant back in while the system cools and is lower than it should be, but we aren’t leaving anything to chance here. If your core flows it flows, but solve the air situation first. Once air is sorted then you can critique other less likely but very possible scenarios. Your car’s cooling system should not lose heat once it is purged of all air. There is just too much heat load from the turbo, to a cast block, to lose heat except for air or scale build up or using a thermostat that opens too early or fails to fully close.

    Come see us after going over the air situation.

    Always always run an OEM factory temp thermostat with a stock setup, as most other thermostats have proven themselves worthless due to varied operating temps, and poor control performance to outright failure in the wrong position.

    That’s the best adviceI could give you for now.

    I use the Lisle kit. There are two Asian cap adapters and sometimes you need to double up on rubber rings to seal but depends on how deep your rad cap setup is. OEM versus aftermarket Chinese rads can be where the depth issue occurs. You will get it.
     

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