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My road to 300awhp

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hubz91talontsi

15+ Year Contributor
1,120
5
Jul 30, 2007
bentleyville, Pennsylvania
I was wondering if you guys could give me a little imput on this.
I have a 93 talon tsi with a six bolt swap.
It has a 16g(small) 550 injectors,
Is it possible to get 300awhp out of it?
Maybe with c16 and that little guy running 23psi?
How would my engine hold up?
I would like to hear what you have to say and whats the best way to get 300awhp.

p.s. internals are stock
 
dsmvoom:
Well it just would be a little safer i guess, but id just like to hit 300. Then ill run at 9psi again. What do you guys think about meth kits? Will this be a little better on the dyno?
 
I've recorded 36 lbs/min with my small16g recently with pumpgas and 17 psi (about 380 crank hp). The difference between you and me: cam upgrade, FMIC, dsmlink. I don't attribute dsmlink to any of the success, so far, because this was done with out adjusting the timing ro fuel in any way. So a good tune with an SAFC or other piggyback will yield the same results but with a little more timing (more power). The cams and FMIC are the difference. Pick up an ebay FMIC like me and I sure you'll be able to meet your goal with pumpgas.

With race gas, I see you reaching your goal right now.

Anyone who blew up a 4g63 at 300whp was at fault himself. Stock blocks have go over 100k with 350 plus hp with even stock head fasteners. No engine can handle detonation, or lack of oil. I've seen so many push 300+whp on stock headbolts and headgasket, that adding such is just needless insurance until you actually do damage these components.

It's not about how much boost, it's about how much pressure is exerted on the piston top. and consequently the headgasket and headbolts. You have a 7-bolt engine. The pistons, rods, and rod bolts will accept upwards of 400whp without detonation. The stock headbolts and head gasket will accept 350+ without detonation.

Again, if you run race gas, then go for your goal now. If you want that turbo to give you those numbes on pumpgas look for a decent ebay fmic and piping.
 
between 11.5-12 is perfect...now if you wanna be safe and make more power, go ahead, but please dont try to make me look dumb...i've studied with great teachers and i know what i'm talking about, a good tune from a dyno shop will be around there...or maybe its just my area and we all run lean:thumb:

BTW...10:1 or lower is WAY TOO RICH

That maybe the case for your 420 or maybe running low boost numbers. I have'nt seen a high boost motor run that lean without knocking. I personally can't run any higher than 10:1 without knocking at 25psi on a E16g. And i'm not trying to make you look stupid but don't post info that is'nt correct. AF ratios will all be different depending on the motor and mods, air temp, humidity, elevation, etc.
 
I've recorded 36 lbs/min with my small16g recently with pumpgas and 17 psi (about 380 crank hp). The difference between you and me: cam upgrade, FMIC, dsmlink. I don't attribute dsmlink to any of the success, so far, because this was done with out adjusting the timing ro fuel in any way. So a good tune with an SAFC or other piggyback will yield the same results but with a little more timing (more power). The cams and FMIC are the difference. Pick up an ebay FMIC like me and I sure you'll be able to meet your goal with pumpgas.

With race gas, I see you reaching your goal right now.

Anyone who blew up a 4g63 at 300whp was at fault himself. Stock blocks have go over 100k with 350 plus hp with even stock head fasteners. No engine can handle detonation, or lack of oil. I've seen so many push 300+whp on stock headbolts and headgasket, that adding such is just needless insurance until you actually do damage these components.

It's not about how much boost, it's about how much pressure is exerted on the piston top. and consequently the headgasket and headbolts. You have a 7-bolt engine. The pistons, rods, and rod bolts will accept upwards of 400whp without detonation. The stock headbolts and head gasket will accept 350+ without detonation.

Again, if you run race gas, then go for your goal now. If you want that turbo to give you those numbes on pumpgas look for a decent ebay fmic and piping.

Is a supra smic with hard piping going to be fine? Im very excited about this. I will not be able to dyno it until spring. :(
 
W/I = Water Injection

Im not sure about HP #'s as I only dyno'd my car once. It put down 260s AWHP. About a year or so later, and after tuning the car myself, i was running 12's in the car, traping around 113mph. Again, I dont have dyno numbers with that, so take it for what its worth.
This was on a 100% stock long block, running 26psi on my EVO 16G, @ 10.5:1. 255hp Fuel pump and 780 injectors with an FPR, and DSMLink.
The stock 4G63 will take you very far, as long as you are good to it. Change the oil, water pump, timing and balance shaft belts. Do all the maint work, and keep up with it, and your stock motor will take you far. 300 is a walk in the park for a well maintained and properly functioning 4G63.
 
Thank you very much. What do you guys think about a maft? Im very intrested in the straight threw design. How much does a no lag exhaust help?(Track wise) My bov is non recirculating ive heard oh all the bad things im not sure why it is. Tell me what you think about that. Thanks again guys.
 
The MAFT is a PITA to get right, unless you plan on getting DSMlink soon also its not worth it. Even then I would wait till V3 comes out so can run speed density and say FU to the MAFT. The stock MAS is good up to 500hp, venting is over rated.

A MAFT is a PITA to tune if you don't know what your doing.

I hope your not talking about a stock 1g mas good to 500hp. I overran mine on the stock 14b(280whp if that). A 2g mas will flow around 25% more air, and should be good for under 400hp. Otherwise an evo VIII or 3G mas will be good for around 500hp. And after that you got the GM mas, which most people don't even need to think about overrunning.
 
E85 is not needed and would require much larger injectors + dsmlink, this was bad information.

A 16g + fmic + 550cc + walbro 190/rewire + safc should be able to safely hit 300hp. I think you are making very realistic goals. I would suggest 650cc injectors just on the safe side.
 
Exactly. Get 650s for a little extra headroom. If you decide to really push the small 16g, then you'll need more than 550s. They're not quite small turbos, though their name suggests it. A FMIC is a must if you want to push it. Try with the supra sidemount for now. If you're no satisfied with your dyno pulls, you'll know were you need to upgrade next.

The stock 2g maf may flow more air than a 1g. But the benefit is the 2g maf's ability to METER higher airflow without skipping hertz counts and shooting out inaccurate information that makes it a great maf in stock form. The stock 1g maf did fine for me. I still got a lot of flow out of my small16g. It was choppy. The count would drop randomly on the graph. That is the real reason why I'm looking for a 2g maf. Yes restriction pre-turbo is about as bad as in the exhaust pipe, but if it were accurate at high airflows 2g mafs wouldn't cost $50 without the plug :) .

Horsepower/airflow-metering potential of certain Mitsubishi MAFs. The 2g has been accurate up to 52 lbs/min, or about 550 crank hp (about 500whp). A good upgrade for 1G guys.
 
A MAFT is a PITA to tune if you don't know what your doing.

I hope your not talking about a stock 1g mas good to 500hp. I overran mine on the stock 14b(280whp if that). A 2g mas will flow around 25% more air, and should be good for under 400hp. Otherwise an evo VIII or 3G mas will be good for around 500hp. And after that you got the GM mas, which most people don't even need to think about overrunning.

Ok maybe I should explain this alittle better. A 2g or even a EVO MAS is better than a 1g MAS up to a certain point for metering airflow. Unless you have link the GM MAS is pointless because they all read slightly differently and your airflow readings will never be correct. And i'm no expert but calibrating a GM MAS with the MAFT is a PITA because of the many factors that can throw it off. Maybe its because i bought one of first ones back in 03 and the new ones are better but mine sucks. The OP is only wanting to run 300hp so the GM/MAFT setup is a waste of money.
 
What about the bov its not recirculating. Does that hurt the horsepower? It does not have a maft atm, but i do play on getting one just looking to find the right price. =)
 
:thumb:I wouldn't worry much about 300hp, its nothing...in other words its easily reachable with a 6 bolt head and a 16g. Just like the guys mentioned get those few things for tuning and you will be alright. Btw 23psi seems too much to me but if you want reliable power cranck it down to 20 psi and you will be safe. Yes 4g63's are bullet proof, i don't care what anyone says, my 7 bolt is pushing 395 hp with stock internals and still wants more
 
forgive me for being new but upgrade the fuel pump throw a set of decent cams an afpr, turn the boost theres a couple free mods in the tech for noobs, also get rid of the stok intercooler and with a dsmlink u shuld b able toeasily achieve 300 without destroying your rods...:) hope it helps

*** change the exhaust too u need to flow more and u can even blueprint the turbo (port) yourself!!
 
im not really a 4g63 guy...but stock internals will not hold 300wheel for too long, at least not from my expirience with them. you might think about pistons and rods...then you should be good...i have a 420a with a garrett t3/t4 .50 trim beast...running like 16psi with 4g63 injectors and a walboro 255hp and an safc running like 11.75-12:1 on the wideband rich as hell, but im around 300wheel. its all in the tune:thumb::dsm:

Dude where do you get your info?!

Stock internals will take 400 hp without to much sweat with supporting mods and tuning. And 12:1 isn't ####ing rich in a turbo smart guy. 10.5:1 is rich, 11.5 is about the safe limit of pump depending on engine. I had 400 hp on my 7 bolt stock engine till I felt like swapping in the 2.3. My 1g has over 300 hp (haven't been to dyno yet) on stock maf, stock cams, head studs etc.

Don't spread shit around unless you know it to be true.

forgive me for being new but upgrade the fuel pump throw a set of decent cams an afpr

You suck, this thread died in 2008.. LOL. Advise, go ahead and look at the last post date. Unless you have something critical to add leave it alone.
 
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