My quest for a 10 second DSM questions

[supersplat310]

Im looking to build a full out track car capable of running 10's or better. Can anyone give me the rundown on some of basic things I will need. My parts list is as follows:

t67 turbo
unknown intercooler
unknown wastegate
FIC fuel rail
FIC 1000cc injectors
Wallbro 255lph w/ rewire
Eagle crank
Weisco pistons
Eagle H beam rods
280/280 cams
adjustable cam gears


And thats about all I got right now. My biggest concern is making sure I get the RIGHT parts needed for this build. I dont want to skimp out on something cheap, nor do I want to get something that cant withstand power or psi (25-30)


Any suggestions folks?

 

[KazooGS-T]

I would get a built REAR End esp with an AUTO. Look into forced performance they are the S*(^!

What are you talking about? Auto's don't have driveline issues like manuals do. Also, FP has nothing to do with rear ends.

Go with the AEM EMS V2 it makes dsmlike look like a stereo equalizer. Expensive but far greater tuning capability. True Boost also i like the idea of the turbo running on the computer

AEM is much harder to tune with and is by no means something that the average person understands how to use, which leads me to believe that you have not actually used AEM or ECMlink for that matter. V3 has tons of options and is super user-friendly and has extensive technical help available.

I'm building a Slowboy Built Motor with a DNP mani, FP Turbo, Universal FMIC, And the rest Punishmant goodies plus V3 and going to E85 we will see how it does this year at 5400+ ft above Sea level!

What does this have to do with the thread?

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Go with the AEM EMS V2 it makes dsmlike look like a stereo equalizer. Expensive but far greater tuning capability. True Boost also i like the idea of the turbo running on the computer

Maybe with V2, but not with V3. V3 can do anything AEM EMS can do and more.



Also Link isnt your only tuning option.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...l-free-speed-density-tuning-software-1gs.html

 

[KazooGS-T]

Maybe with V2, but not with V3. V3 can do anything AEM EMS can do and more.



Also Link isnt your only tuning option.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...l-free-speed-density-tuning-software-1gs.html

Very, very true. DSMap is what I'm using.

 

[slowgsr]

Heres my setup from last season.

Stock engine/Stock head, with FP2 cams. I ran a S258 turbo @ 32psi on pump gas with water/meth. Fuel was 94 pump, 1000cc injectors. I had a shep stage 4 trans, twin disc etc, a 4 bolt rear, and DSS driveshaft. The driveshafts are nice, they twist and help ubsorb shock, keeps your drivetrain together, but they yolk will still twist, break (ask me how I know), as well as Tcases! Stock up You auto so it will help with shock a lot.

Nice lightweight wheels and some good tires are always nice, rotational weight is a killer.

I used AEM for tuning, had the wideband all that stuff, you need to monitor things. I used a JMF 'race' intake manifold, and a PTE 750hp IC, 2.5" ic piping etc, stock TB.

Good tuning will do what you want.

In a full weight 1G, (1990) I went 11.1 @ 130mph with a 1.9 sixty. I know it had 10s in it, but I kept getting booted for no safety equipment. So, Get a cage! Or else (like me) you get booted and can't run your potential.

I re-worked a few things for 'this' season (2010), which included some safety equipment !!

Im currently building my 3rd setup for my dsm, if you need any tips on parts, what 'I' Think works well from lots of trial and error, feel free to PM me with any specifics!

Im a big fan of the BEP turbo's, I think you should run something between a 60-66mm.

 

[Rockbmx1]

I think that you should just go with a built motor with Mahle pistions and Scat rods, that is a cheap combo. Also, go with a built 1g head, ss valves, kiggly springs and some Kelford 272 cams. For a turbo, go with an Fp hta82-86, one of those has 10's under its belt no problem. For a fmic, go with an ETS ultra race kit, that's the best. Get a magnus intake mani, and get an erl exhaust mani. Get dsmlink v3. Go with some FIC high impedence 2150cc injectors. With that basic setup you will have what's nessasary to get you in the ten's.

 

[Al_Scrap_Iron]

Hummm My intake-intercoooler and my AEM EMS

I can do a package deal for you.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classified...e-1/828whp-intake-air-watercooler-setup-7415/

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/4g63-dsm-parts-for-sale-1/1g-aem-ems-7410/

 

[BigBeans]

As for fuel you might want to consider race gas or even e85. With e85 your probably going to need to change your fuel set up. Do you plan on running street tires or getting some dr's or even slicks? With that big of a turbo you might even want to think about nitrous to help it spool up and get out of the hole considering its a auto.

E85 would have to be bought by the drum in RI.

Also, he wants this to be streetable, so it needs to make power on pump.

Pick up another wally, that way you will have enough fuel, just to be safe.

Also, think about picking up STM's fuel tank to rail kit. It's around $200 shipped and will replace the lines from the tank to the rail, comes with a fuelab filter, all the -an fittings needed, etc.

I would go ahead with 1200-1600cc injectors, make sure you have an AFPR also.

I don't really see a need for a fuel cell, but that is completely up to you.

Get a good rod/piston combo, stock crank will be fine. Make sure to get headstuds and a good headgasket. You'll want a complete engine gasket kit (I wouldn't necessarily use the HG supplied, but everything else will be needed). You're going to need new bearings, rings should be supplied with your pistons.

Make sure to get the head and block both decked, cleaned up, valve job done (if you are buying springs/retainers, bring them with you for this as they have to be removed for the valve job and will cost nothing to put in) and have the crank checked out along with those. (The machine shop will tell you what size bearings you're going to need).

As far as cams go, the sky is the limit and it is completely up to you what you pick. There are cams that are easily compatible with stock springs/retainers, but it's up to you on what you want/need.

The turbo you decide upon reflects your budget and goals. So does the turbo manifold, wastegate setup, intercooler setup, etc. It just depends what you want to do, I have a T58 and it is an awesome street turbo in retrospect. If you want a street car, make sure you are using a street friendly turbo. I'm not building a "street car" as it is not my DD and is only for racing, so a big turbo to me wouldn't mess with things.

You could always pick up other little odds and ends (SMIM, cam gears, throttle body, etc) it's up to your budget and your goals.

LISTEN TO THIS GUY!!!



Do not buy less than 1200cc injecotors, you need more fuel pump, and a fuel cell is money that could go to more useful things.

I think that you should just go with a built motor with Mahle pistions and Scat rods, that is a cheap combo. Also, go with a built 1g head, ss valves, kiggly springs and some Kelford 272 cams. For a turbo, go with an Fp hta82-86, one of those has 10's under its belt no problem. For a fmic, go with an ETS ultra race kit, that's the best. Get a magnus intake mani, and get an erl exhaust mani. Get dsmlink v3. Go with some FIC high impedence 2150cc injectors. With that basic setup you will have what's nessasary to get you in the ten's.

2150s are wasted cash for this setup.

1200-1650 at the max. 1650 bluemax injectors are low imp and dont require any boosting. They're prob my next injector.

 

[Rockbmx1]

I reccomended the high impedence injectors, cause they are much easy to tune then big low impedence injectors. In my opinion they are the only way to go if you are going to buy new injectors. The price has been lowered too, so they aren't too much more then standard injectors.

 

[DWR-DSM]

Weight Reduction, look into IPT for a built Transmission, Road surge for a shiftbox, maybe a DSS drive shaft, their front axles, rear bar axles upgrade, and 4 bolt rear. I would go with the V3 for the tuning. Depending on if you going with E85 of Q16 will really decide what you do with your fuel system. I would go with 272 cams and not 280s.

 

[supersplat310]

Wow. you guys have really given me some great advice. Thanks for everything. I guess I have a lot of money to save up. Would a 20g do the trick?

 

[DWR-DSM]

Wow. you guys have really given me some great advice. Thanks for everything. I guess I have a lot of money to save up. Would a 20g do the trick?

Do some research(search tab up-top), dnt be lazy.... You can see what some peoples set-ups are if you go to the tabs up-top and choose members, dsm 1/4 miles times. Limit the search to Automatics to see what they use to give ideas what you are going to need. Think of your build as a puzzle, you got to piece it together.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Check out my car, I'll probably be parting it out soon.

 

[DWR-DSM]

Check out my car, I'll probably be parting it out soon.

There is alot of stuff you can use from his setup. Save you some money to help you get to your goal.

 

[chardbox03]

its way better than dsmlink and you dont have to hack the sh** out of your wiring. way less ghetto and you run map instead which in my opinion is way more reliable than ghetto rigging a buick 3" MAF

 

[ryan90]

hey man,

good luck with the build


my .02

What's new at DS-Map? | DSMAP

cheaper tuning option for you to check out. Requires two extra sensors (they are $70 total new) and an ostritch (i paid $100 for mine)

 

[DWR-DSM]

its way better than dsmlink and you dont have to hack the sh** out of your wiring. way less ghetto and you run map instead which in my opinion is way more reliable than ghetto rigging a buick 3" MAF

IDK what makes it way better, also it way more expensive.

 

[BigBeans]

its way better than dsmlink and you dont have to hack the sh** out of your wiring. way less ghetto and you run map instead which in my opinion is way more reliable than ghetto rigging a buick 3" MAF

You can run MAP on link V3 if you want.

MAFs are not considered unreliable. Countless members, including myself have run them forever without an issue.

 

[DWR-DSM]

You can run MAP on link V3 if you want.

MAFs are not considered unreliable. Countless members, including myself have run them forever without an issue.

Im running a Maf with dsmlink V3 right now, no problems.

 

[KazooGS-T]

its way better than dsmlink and you dont have to hack the sh** out of your wiring. way less ghetto and you run map instead which in my opinion is way more reliable than ghetto rigging a buick 3" MAF

Good job proving you know nothing about AEM or ECMlink

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Good job proving you know nothing about AEM or ECMlink

Aww... he's just simply thinking the more expensive it is the better is.

Looking at chardbox03 profile he could have put his money to better use while a 'ghetto' AFC could have done some hacking to get the job done on his system.

 

[madmike]

hey slowgsr what kind of ignition you running? I know you must have more than stock running 11"s ? sweet times by the way...

Mike

 

[1gDSM4g63]

hey slowgsr what kind of ignition you running? I know you must have more than stock running 11"s ? sweet times by the way...

Mike

The stock ignition is very capable of the 500HP range.

 

[supersplat310]

Once again, thanks guys. Ive decided to go with a full internal engine. Full eagle setup. Stock crank. 1200cc injectors. 280/280 cams with adjustable cam gears. I already started a p&p on the head. JM fab SMIM, cx racing pro race FMIC, DSMlink v3, HKS SSQV (for a kick ass sound) full 8 point roll cage, fuel feed upgrade, and all the tank lines are being done to -6an. 12 gallon fuel cell. Twin wallbro 255lph pumps.


Sound good so far?

 

[1gDSM4g63]

I would suggest a Tial BOV instead of an HKS. They tend to leak at high boost and you don't need to go for the 12 gallon fuel cell, 8 point roll cage or the twin Wally yet. It's best if you hold your horses right now and go step by step because right now you're easy looking at 10 grand in parts alone. You'll end up way of your head in money and time and you'll end up giving up. A little 2.0L can make a decent amount of power but it's not that easy and not every mechanic can do this.

 

[DWR-DSM]

I would suggest a Tial BOV instead of an HKS. They tend to leak at high boost and you don't need to go for the 12 gallon fuel cell, 8 point roll cage or the twin Wally yet. It's best if you hold your horses right now and go step by step because right now you're easy looking at 10 grand in parts alone. You'll end up way of your head in money and time and you'll end up giving up. A little 2.0L can make a decent amount of power but it's not that easy and not every mechanic can do this.

+1, take your time. Do some research, tell us what you want to use and we could help you from there. Just don't order something because you think its the best, ask people who run the product first.