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My fuse box relocation (project log)

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To find the products you want, either use the link Brian posted or, once you start getting more familiar with the products, just refer to this:
http://www.laddinc.com/images/stories/connectorselector.pdf

They do not have prices listed anywhere. To order, compile a list of all the part numbers you want (and quantities if you know), then email them at [email protected] and ask for a quote for all those part numbers. They will email you back a quote in PDF form, and to order you will have to call them up and order over the phone referring to the quote/order number they provide. The quote will include price breakdowns for different quantities purchased (if you buy 1-10 product costs xxx, 11-100 costs xxx, etc.) Yes, placing large orders over the phone takes forever so try to get the part numbers and quantities right in your quote.
 
Guess I might as well post my vacuum block setup here for reference.

-10 bung welded to manifold
Earl's Prolite hose and fittings
Golden Eagle vacuum block
Stock bov and fpr nipples removed, plugged with 1/16" SS NPT set screws
Stock pcv nipple removed, tapped for 1/8" NPT, used a 90* fitting for easier hose routing towards the passenger side

Boost gauge, brake booster, fpr, bov, and mbc are fed from the block, pcv and map are in the intake manifold (map is where brake booster used to be for quick response).

The block mounting points happened to be the perfect spacing to use the bosses on the manifold that used to hold the support bracket. I put two bolts in those bosses, then drilled/tapped through the middle of the head down the length of the bolt, then the little bolts for the block thread into the big bolts. I did this to clean up and hide some hoses, but more importantly so I could eliminate any T's and so my map sensor could be directly threaded into the intake manifold. As you can see in the pictures above, the whole setup is basically unnoticeable. At the NE DSM meet, only one person actually noticed the line off the intake manifold.

(You can also see my IAT placement for speed density).

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If you have too many of them, feel free to get in touch with me as I need to do my car next. Every time I open my hood and then Eric's, I hate looking at how clean his engine bay is.

I need to know how many pins you need/want. I have:

Round male/female plugs up to 385 wires, and as small as 6 wires. I am going to have to dig around but I think I even have some junction plugs where one side would mount to the firewall with 4 small screws, and then the other plug goes into the jackplug from the engine side. I have two styles where one is half turn, and then I have a couple that thead down. Shoot me with a PM of how many wires, and if you need the jackplug style or if you could use the male/female plug. I should have the pins that go to the plugs as well. Sense you allready have the pin tool you can use it with out the barral attachment as you won't have the right sink depth for the pins I use.

For those asking why you have to use that tool, it is because the pins are alot thicker than just a standard pin. Depending on if the pins have holes you can sometimes get away with soldering the wires into the each pin instead of using the tool. The tool itself has a whole assortment of attachments that go on the crimper. Each dye is preset to the pin that you are using, so you just drop the pin into the dye (that is allready attached to the crimper), make sure that your crimp number is set for the diameter pin you are using, put the wire in and crimp. It is extremely efficient if you are doing 30, 100, 1000 pins of the same kind. Once the right dye, and crimp # are set you just drop pin, insert wire, crimp, and repeat.
Also the crimper itself is a "star" crimp in that it pinches the wire with 4 points, unlike the Home Depot ones that I know of that only crimp on the one side. If you try to insert the pin into the plug with only the one side crimped it isn't round anymore and won't go into the hole/keeper of the plug. Flattened pin doesn't go in round hole :ohdamn:

On a side note, if you guys want to make sure that moisture doesn't get into the back of the plug (completely watertight), we used potting compounds to seal the back of the plug. You could easily do this by wrapping masking tape around the back of the plug and wires loosely and then filling with RTV. RTV is soft enough to allow the flexibility, is watertight, and if necessary could be cut away if you needed to fix a broken pin, broken wire, ect.
 
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Great suggestion, but I can assure you that new seats are far, far, far down the list. LOL

Also, another tidbit of information. In post #511, I guessed the weight of the car with a full tank of gas. The weight as pictured is actually 3070 lbs. with full tank and no driver.
 
Great suggestion, but I can assure you that new seats are far, far, far down the list. LOL

Also, another tidbit of information. In post #511, I guessed the weight of the car with a full tank of gas. The weight as pictured is actually 3070 lbs. with full tank and no driver.

do you have any idea what the original weight was?
 
According to this link, the curb weight is 3157. I did not weigh mine before to verify this.
1000 AAQ - DSM factory specifications

There is lots of misinformation on the weight, i had seen from 3100 to 3350 however a friend weighted is 99 gsx with all original equipment on it and it weighted 3319 with almost no gas on tank and without driver.

What i had seen is that you actually removed a bunch of weight off your car, your car is just amazing!!!:thumb:
 
There is lots of misinformation on the weight, i had seen from 3100 to 3350 however a friend weighted is 99 gsx with all original equipment on it and it weighted 3319 with almost no gas on tank and without driver.

What i had seen is that you actually removed a bunch of weight off your car, your car is just amazing!!!:thumb:

Thanks for the info :thumb:

Amazing ride and detail.. Can I send my harness to you and make an exact copy? :)

Ug, no thanks. As it is, I have to duplicate the harness for my brother sometime :|
 
If you do this, you risk breaking the pin/holding contact that actually keeps the pin inside the connector. You need to properly remove the pins.


I found this plug for $30.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html

Did anyone use anything similar? That site has nice weather pack kits too.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

That is somewhat similar to what my brother used. You just need to count and keep in mind how many wires of what size you need. I believe most of the wires for the engine bay harness are in the 18-20ga size, which that plug only has 13 pins for. That will not nearly be enough.
 
If you don't mind me asking, do you know how much it cost to do all this?
 
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