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My first DSM Build *pics inside*

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GoofyDSM

15+ Year Contributor
40
0
Feb 10, 2006
Cincinnati, Ohio
Ok so this is my first time building a DSM, So if you have any little tip or tricks or advice let me know.

I started out with a 92 N/T, So far I have disassembled the block and self honed it. I forgot to take a pick without pistons in it.. but here it is,
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I did the 1g rod / 2g piston combo. I got the rods out of my block and my buddy gave me 2g pistons for free, >1k miles on them.

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I use the stock crank and cleaned it myself, used Clevite main bearings and ARP mainstuds.

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Next I put the rods/pistons in, used ARP Rod bolts and clevite rod bearings. With the rods bolts I torqued them to 20, then 40, then half turn loosened them twice and back to 40ft/lbs. Also used hasting rings, .018 gap up top and 16 on the 2nd ring.

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I used ARP headstuds and MLS Gasket, use the copper spray sealant. Head bolts are torqued to 90ft/lbs per ARP Site.. kinda insane.. but it is a 12mm bolt haha.

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Finally have the head on, this is as far as i got last night. Stock rebuilt head, stock turbo cams.

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Hey thanks man! This is just a side project so im taking my time, no rush to finish. Let me know if you have any advice.
 
Nice! Here's my advise. Use "brush tack" or "hi-tack" sealer on the little gasket that goes behind the rear main seal housing. Even if you have to go buy a jar of it just for that, it pays off in the end.

I assuming it leaks quite easily?
 
how hard is it to self hone the block? i have an extra engine with bad piston rings but needs hone so the piston rings seal i was told
 
Buy a 40 dollar hone, borrow your dads drill, and your moms mop bucket. fill it with soap and water, and let the rest just happen.

Yes pretty much, I use the spring loaded 3 bar hone.. they have different grits. I cant remember which one i had, it was just laying around. I used a can of spray lubricant, you will want to keep the metal cool for the best results. Dont put the drill on full blast, i would say medium is good. Also you will want to move the drill up and down at a medium pace, this will create the hatch marks that you need. If you dont.. the rings could possible turn inside the motor and the gaps could line up and thats bad.
 
Looks good so far.

but.....

1) I hope the block deck is perfect shape to seal the HG, metal HG are pickey about distortion
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-deck-4g63-cast-iron-block.html#post152790451

2) I hope you at a minumin checked the head for warp.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html
Or had it milled for a MLS Head gasket
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
Most metal HG will only tolerate about .0015 of combined warp of head and block.
Check with the manufacture of your brand of head gasket and see what the tolerance is.

Who did the rod work for you to hang the 2g pistons on the 1g rods?
When you cleaned the crank, did you gun brush the oil galleys?

Also, from the commonn postings here, your ring gap is a tad tight, most run .024 top and .020 2nd ring.
How much boost do you plan on running?
How are you going to tune?

You working in the right direction, and it looks you are keeping it clean.
 
I missed the ARP bolt part.

Were the rods checked for round after the rod bolts installed? the diffrence in High spec to low spec is .0007.

Also the main should be ckecked for round and align honed with the install of ARP Main studs.
 
Looks good so far.

but.....

1) I hope the block deck is perfect shape to seal the HG, metal HG are pickey about distortion
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-deck-4g63-cast-iron-block.html#post152790451

2) I hope you at a minumin checked the head for warp.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html
Or had it milled for a MLS Head gasket
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
Most metal HG will only tolerate about .0015 of combined warp of head and block.
Check with the manufacture of your brand of head gasket and see what the tolerance is.

Who did the rod work for you to hang the 2g pistons on the 1g rods?
When you cleaned the crank, did you gun brush the oil galleys?

Also, from the commonn postings here, your ring gap is a tad tight, most run .024 top and .020 2nd ring.
How much boost do you plan on running?
How are you going to tune?

You working in the right direction, and it looks you are keeping it clean.

We check head warp and check the deck of the block everything was good. I will be running around 25-27psi, I know my ring gap is a tad tight, I did that on purpose. Rod work was done buy my buddy that has had his own shop for 25 years now, so im good there. They were also resized on the crank side make sure they where perfect. Tuning is done with DSM Link v3, the crank was cleaned. This is my first DSM Build not engine build LOL. But thanks for all of the advice, keep it coming.
 
I missed the ARP bolt part.

Were the rods checked for round after the rod bolts installed? the diffrence in High spec to low spec is .0007.

Also the main should be ckecked for round and align honed with the install of ARP Main studs.

Yes it was.
 
I kept looking for the "like" button, then realized there wasn't one ;) good job! What turbo/ goals do you have in mind?

Journal bearing gt35 .68 exhaust housing. Cant remeber wheel size sorry.

I would love to make 450-500whp
 
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