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My first AWD and my first Auto DSM?

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19BLACKGST98

20+ Year Contributor
711
3
Nov 6, 2003
McKinney, Texas
OK I am going to pick up a stock Auto 97 GSX tomorrow. I have had a 1998 5 speed GST since 2002 which I still have.

I honestly don't know much about the auto's except for the stuff I have read on here when looking for answers to my questions.

First off the car will mainly be a street driven car with the very rare occasional track/dyno day…Think of it as a fun daily driver that isn’t really a daily driver because we have several cars.

1. Are 2g pre warsher(sp?) motor auto’s just as prone to crank walk as the 5 speeds?

2. I have an HX40 set up that I was keeping handy incase my FP turbo ever lets go on my GST…I think it may be a little to much for my new stock block/stock auto tranny car. I have a chance to get an HX35 for $150 at the moment and the rest of the HX40 setup will work with it but ill have to buy a Mitsu bep housing. Which should I go with?

3. If I go HX35 or 40 what am I missing from this list that I will need?

$50 Intake pipe
2g maf or GM Maf with translator (have both)
NGK 7ES Plugs (have a lot of them)
$50 Plug wires
ECMLink V3 (have)
Boost Controler (have) Either Boost by gear or Profec b II
$56 Boost guage
$200 WB O2
O2 housing (have it flanged for tial 44mm)
$150 Downpipe
$170 3” electric cut out w/ Y pipe
$60 Walboro 255 fuel pump
$100 Fuel pressure regulator
750cc injectors (have)
Big Side mount intercooler (cant find them anywhere)
Cam’s (I have a fp2 exhaust cam)
$180 External WG
$50 BOV
$250 DSM flanged BEP HX35 housing
$200 aluminum ic piping built locally

Im sure I'll have more questions and I'll post pics after I pick it up. I have already seen it, checked it out and driven it but they didn't want to take my offer that day.
 
the stock auto tranny can handle more power than the stock manual. I hate that too.
also since it's an auto, I wouldnt worry about crankwalk.
and i would recommend a FMIC. an upgraded SMIC only prevents heat soak to a certain point
 
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If you're not building the motor or trans just go with the hx35. There is no need for the extra lag if you aren't going to max out the hx40. Also, i'm pretty sure the auto transmissions can handle 500+ horsepower with just a shift kit and a better trans oil cooler.
 
the stock auto tranny cant handle more power than the stock manual. I hate that too.

I will have to disagree with you on that one. The stock auto is proven to handle more power (and be more reliable) than a stock 5 speed. Not to mention it preloads the drive train and the converter delivers the power much more smoothly compared to an aggressive clutch. You just have to set it up right before you stress it. The auto in my car is completely stock with 115,000 miles on it. All I did was replace the end clutches which cost $90, run full line pressure and upgraded the trans cooler. I go to the track every Thursday and beat the ever living shit out of this thing.

If you're not building the motor or trans just go with the hx35. There is no need for the extra lag if you aren't going to max out the hx40. Also, i'm pretty sure the auto transmissions can handle 500+ horsepower with just a shift kit and a better trans oil cooler.

A shift kit isn't completely necessary, it does help though. The important thing is to run full line pressure shifts at WOT. With the TCU controlling line pressure your tranny will flare and slip during shifts at wot when you start making good power. Just need to do the blue wire or kiggly manumatic mod. You can even set it up on a WOT switch so the car will drive normally when cruising with the blue wire mod.
 
Lol I just re-read my post and I meant can. Lol I have a manual that's why I hate it
I mean I like driving manual over auto but I hate that autos can handle more power and cheaper to upgrade

Oh I gotcha, now it makes more sense. My car is lot of fun at the track with the auto but I gotta tell.. you I do miss the 5 speed out on the street. The auto is pretty sluggish from a stop with the restalled converter. As soon as the turbo spools though I look like this LOL
 
Welcome to the dsm auto club LOL :applause:

Make sure you add a shift kit and end clutch kit to that list. Another mod that is a must for an auto trans is that you get a bigger trans cooler to keep things cool for your transmission.

In case you need a cheap one(pricewise) that works just as well as an expensive one and is made by B&M; just go pick one up from a late 90's suburban at your local junk yard :thumb:. Just make sure its a stack plate design instead of a tube and fin design.
 
the stock auto tranny can handle more power than the stock manual. I hate that too.
also since it's an auto, I wouldnt worry about crankwalk.
and i would recommend a FMIC. an upgraded SMIC only prevents heat soak to a certain point
Thanks for the info. I will go water/air intercooler before I go FMIC. I want to car to look stock..its still going to have the back half of the stock exhaust even. My friend just bought a new tig welder so we are even thinking of sticking 2 stockers together and fabbing up some end caps for it.

If you're not building the motor or trans just go with the hx35. There is no need for the extra lag if you aren't going to max out the hx40. Also, i'm pretty sure the auto transmissions can handle 500+ horsepower with just a shift kit and a better trans oil cooler.
Thanks I was thinking the same thing. Plus I already have the HX40 so if I wanted to I could always swap it out.

I will have to disagree with you on that one. The stock auto is proven to handle more power (and be more reliable) than a stock 5 speed. Not to mention it preloads the drive train and the converter delivers the power much more smoothly compared to an aggressive clutch. You just have to set it up right before you stress it. The auto in my car is completely stock with 115,000 miles on it. All I did was replace the end clutches which cost $90, run full line pressure and upgraded the trans cooler. I go to the track every Thursday and beat the ever living shit out of this thing.



A shift kit isn't completely necessary, it does help though. The important thing is to run full line pressure shifts at WOT. With the TCU controlling line pressure your tranny will flare and slip during shifts at wot when you start making good power. Just need to do the blue wire or kiggly manumatic mod. You can even set it up on a WOT switch so the car will drive normally when cruising with the blue wire mod.
Thank you I will definitely set it up like that.

About time you got away from that GS-T. :) Welcome to the auto club.
I'm not away from it I just bought him a mail order bride :)

Where did you find this auto gsx I'm fort worth I'm been looking for another gsx or gst for daily driver
I will let you know tomorrow when I post pics after I get it home. Are you on dallasdsm.org?

Oh I gotcha, now it makes more sense. My car is lot of fun at the track with the auto but I gotta tell.. you I do miss the 5 speed out on the street. The auto is pretty sluggish from a stop with the restalled converter. As soon as the turbo spools though I look like this LOL
If I ever miss the 5 speed I will just hop in the GST...not get traction in the first 3 gears, then get back in the auto :)

Welcome to the dsm auto club LOL :applause:

Make sure you add a shift kit and end clutch kit to that list. Another mod that is a must for an auto trans is that you get a bigger trans cooler to keep things cool for your transmission.

In case you need a cheap one(pricewise) that works just as well as an expensive one and is made by B&M; just go pick one up from a late 90's suburban at your local junk yard :thumb:. Just make sure its a stack plate design instead of a tube and fin design.
Thanks I'll keep that in mind.

So as far as the auto transmission is concerned I need to get this stuff done eventually:
1. Stall converter
http://www.importperformancetrans.c...ustom-high--stall-torque-converter.-1734.html
2. Shift kit
http://www.importperformancetrans.c...lab-shift-kit-high-performance-type-1672.html
3. Transmission fluid cooler
http://www.importperformancetrans.c...ransmission-cooler--28000-gvw--4590-1903.html
4. End clutches.... I cant really find these, do they call them something else? http://www.importperformancetrans.c...pt-end-clutch-kit---dsm--mitsubishi-1671.html
 
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Thank you sir I will paste it into my list.

OK I picked it up today but had family things planned for the day so I didn't get to play with it at all. Anyways here are some pic's of it dirty. Its not pretty but it looks better than my other DSM LOL.
I have a few things I need to pick up for it tomorrow like a new MDP sensor (CEL for it), something to quiet the slightly squeaking brakes, plug wires and a blinker bulb. Ill also swing by the car wash after I get all of that taken care of.

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Damn an MDP sensor at the auto parts store costs around $150. I think I'll hit up a junk yard instead.
 
From what ive read a few diffrent places on the forum I should use Diamond SPF II Fluid or do yall recommend something else?
 
Crank walk in an auto is not as common, but it can still happen. My 7 bolt crank walked on me 4 years ago in my auto AWD. I replaced it with a 6 bolt and no problems since :)

100% line pressure is a good thing as well, but be sure you have good motor mounts. When the transmission shifts, there is no smooth shift unless you time it just right when shifting. I have the Roadsurge shift box on my auto which I have been using for 4 years. It is good for shifting when I want to shift and has 100% line pressure shifts. The other alternative is sending your ECU off to get it chipped and programmed.
 
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OK I have a new question. I've almost got all of the parts to start my build so I want to go get the car inspected/title in my name/Tagged the problem is the tires that came with the car have dry rotted.

I have read that it is bad to hit O/D when at the track...I plan on only running street tires on this car so I am wondering what size tires I should run on the stock 17" GSX rims? Will it even matter what size as far as street tires go? Is there a size that will let me finish the 1/4 in 3rd reving out to 8,500 or so?

Edit: I found a tire high calculator...which of these will fit?
215 50 17 (25.46")
225 45 17 (24.97")
235 45 17 (25.33")
225 50 17 (25.86")
235 50 17 (26.25")
 
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