1G My first 4g build

[Mikhail]

Alright so here it goes. I've always been an Audi enthusiast for as long as I can remember but I have a friend who's always been into anything that has a 4g63 in it. He's had ups and downs with reliability and recently gave me a 6bolt motor that he "had issues" with as a result of the builder he paid. Against his better judgement, he paid a person to do the full 6 bolt conversion in his 2g eclipse.

Long story short, the person whom he paid, dropped the motor on the oil pan during the install which dented the pan and the sump took it hard. No oil and the balance shaft bearings spun which I planned on deleting anyways. Oil pump seized obviously after the balance shaft went flying around. With the good comes the bad. The bad? 2 main bearings spun and cylinder 1 spun. The good? Some how or another the block wasn't damaged which means I can go one of two routes with some guidance.

Now for the carnage.

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[Maes]

Wow that's sad. Good pictures. Good luck on the build.

 

[Mikhail]

Now that's the carnage. As I said, the block somehow or another didn't take damage which means I'm going to move forward. Now I'm gonna post some images that will lead me to some questions.

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Crank Markings

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Cylinder 1

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Cylinder 2

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Cylinder 3

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MainBearing 1

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MainBearing 2

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MainBearing 3

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Now for some questions...

1) with the images provided, is it worth getting the thing ground and running oversized bearings? Should I just throw it in the trash and get a new eagle crank?

2) with the very limited markings provided, I know its a 88mm stroke crank. Is it just a stock crank?

 

[Mikhail]

And the undamaged block isn't the only good. The head is pretty nice. I checked the clearances on all the valve guides. They managed to stay put. New valves seat well. Lucky again. ARP headstuds, been torqued once. HKS 272's.

For what it is, a free 6 bolt with a nice head including cams, springs, etc. I'll take it. Even if I have to buy a new crank.

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Long story short,

6 bolt crank marking "65" 88mm stroke. Stock 6 bolt?

cylinder 1 rod journal 44.87mm
cylinder 2-4 rod journal 45.02mm-45.05mm

main bearing journals

56.92mm - 56.98mm

Trash the crank and get a new one, or grind it and run oversized bearings?

Appreciate any and all help. Thanks guys.

 

[ThunderChild]

Yep, that crank is stock

Looks like you could go .010" under on the crank possibly, personally I'd look for a good stock crank.
Nice snag on the head tho

 

[Mikhail]

Been busy for a while but I took some pictures along the way as I could. So I ended up getting a crank from someone local in exchange for head work he needed done that he literally just didn't have the time to do himself. So the story goes... a cam upgrade was made and "something" went wrong. I see signs of over torquing. Guess I'll see what you guys think. Either that or maybe debris between the cap flats and the block.

For the goods, here's the crank I got in exchange, next to the old wasted one.

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This is the head that I stripped and cleaned, before it was removed a while back.

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Here's one of the scars on the head that I will be pulling the crower springs out of, to put into the other head from the earlier picture.

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Now heres a picture of why I think the cam was overtorqued or just not put on, clear of debris maybe?

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Clogged oil pinholes on rockers

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[Mikhail]

Oh yeah and the semi ready to go.

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Gonna go and torque the head, and the cams in tomorrow. He gave me the cams that are all messed up and is pretty much twisting my arm saying he wants to put then back in, even after the carnage to the journals. I'm likely going to beg him to atleast try and send them to the machine shop to see if they can be polished so the gouges can hold oil. I feel like he could get lucky because the steel didn't take it as bad as the aluminum did. But I'd have to believe that there's a possibility that its going to affect oil pressure enough to, on a long enough timeline, deprive other journals of oil and I know he's not trying to have me build another head for him.

There was a lot of BS along the way on this one. The head stud nuts were torqued so hard it cracked about half of the ARP washers. I feel like whatever this was torqued by had to have been out of calibration. Either that or the correct torque specs weren't available? *cough internet*

Anywho ill take pictures tomorrow. If I can convince him to put the stock cams back on, I'm really going to try to. Wish me luck.

 

[ThunderChild]

Looks to me like something was pinched between the cap and cam when it was torqued. No bueno either way.

 

[Mikhail]

Looks to me like something was pinched between the cap and cam when it was torqued. No bueno either way.

Thank you for the feedback. I would have to imagine most people would really really check. Who knows..

Anyways. I forgot I had taken this picture too which is awesome. Met up with my buddy who gave me the block the other day and his 7 bolt is coming back together. He got a few nice things for his street setup.

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Q45 throttle body adapted to...
JMF sheetmetal street intake mani
Tial 50MM
4" core intercooler. It is a brand name, just can't remember who.

Little dinged up but for 300 bucks for everything. It really was a nice deal for him. More to come

All sized and trimmed into the support.

EDIT**

The cam damage. Intake.

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[motomattx]

I would make paperweights out of those cams right now. I wouldnt even try to clean that much metal out of those lifters either as finicky as Dsm lifters are to begin with. I have a hard time believing that the oil pan was dented hard enough to completely starve that engine of oil like that, I would sooner believe that the oil pump failed first from some other reason or that a bearing failed first for some reason like clearance issues or revving it too hard on a fresh rebuild etc.

 

[Mikhail]

Been a long while since I've posted anything. Anywho the 6 bolt has been put on standby for a little while. I've spent most of my time at work, taking sidework or being a father. Anywho those cams are gone and a different set went in and the car is running and driving. Slightly after getting everything set in comfortably enough, we started taking things off and putting long awaited nicer stuff on.

Of course it was supposed to go much much smoother but we went about it fast and basically agreed to do the research as we were confronted with issues along the way. Neither one of us really have all that much time but we make due.

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bad valves

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6 bolt head prepped Not sure if I have a bottom side picture of the 7 bolt after I finished it. oh well.

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q45 throttlebody

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jmf street and some secondhand piping and a tial

Pardon the wires and shit all disorganized. I gotta fab the brackets for the coils and trans unit. Once its healthy, and running with everything altered in ECM, everything will be tucked and cleaned up.

What I'm about to show you now is just some quick fixes to get the car rolling because its going in for a full suspension overhaul which neither myself or my buddy wanted to do ourselves due to lack of time and so on. Axles seized into the hubs and all that good stuff. Making it someone elses problem is good for now.

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So it's literally the threaded portion of a old arp stud, used a cut wheel to put slits 180 from each other. slide arp nuts over the cable, lay the cable flat in the grooves made with the angle grinder and thread the nuts on from each side.

Again, highly temporary just to get the car running and movable for suspension. Oh yeah and this was to just overcome the cruise control setup. no place for the synch wheel mech and housing.

Also, no. The cable isnt long enough to reach. Maybe on the stock TB but def not on the q45 for sure. So as you can see, the cable wraps hard with some chopped up brackets holding it in place.

And as it sits now.

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Making a custom harness for the TPS. I thought about making a custom mechanical setup to adapt the stock TPS but its easier to just make a jumper harness setup.

Also I grabbed a new spring compressor that I somehow stumbled upon, on the Sears website

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Where the black adjustable valve retainer arm is, I'm going to weld a nut to a washer, then weld that washer to the arm. using a threaded rod and a 17mm deep socket with the walls cut out, ill weld the socket to the rod and bam. perfect.

What makes this nice is 1) its the ratcheting mech that I want for quick jobs 2) it will be able to get in the narrowest of places 3) adjustable from both the bottom and the top. There's plenty more going for it, too.

I'll draw up the schematics for what I mean by the 17mm deep socket. I'd have to imagine most people already know what I'm trying to get it.

 

[chrysler kid]

Man, that's some serious gore. That 6 bolt wasn't torqued correctly at all. Like some one just pulled everything and then went over everything as tight as they could. Those caps are cracked from being massively over torqued.

That gsx isnt much better, what isn't covered in oil residue in the bay is covered in rust.

You need to help your buddy, stop modifying that car. Keep it stock and just do maintenance for him

 

[Mikhail]

The car was driven as a daily for a long time on moderate upgrades. 20g, dsmlink v2, high boost, summit FPS, FIC 650's. It eventually crankwalked and the car sat for a while. As we're both busy, paid for a 6 bolt to be assembled and swapped. Only portion that came from unknown source was the bottom end. Whatever the case, it ran for maybe 15 miles, external balance shaft locked, shredded the belt, oil pump balance shaft went shortly after, threw time and that's all she wrote.

Anyways, the point of this build was go go all out and enjoy it. The car was fun without the upgrades. It ran, drove, didn't break up. If it weren't for ECMlink, we probably wouldn't have gone much further than highboost, cams and crower springs but with ECMLink being as it is. Versatile and incredibly easy to work with, we figured we might as well go all out. Once the new 6 bolt is finished being built, And by built I mean the rotating assembly is together, balanced and in the bottom end, most of those higher end parts will be pulled and mated to the new 6 bolt.

The GSX has very little rust for what it is. The crudely applied black coating you see in the engine bay is actually just high temp plasti dip applied without proper prep. It got scuffed up a lot too with the engine swap. Regardless it was put there to help prevent rust, a while back. And all things considered, it did what it was/is supposed to do in this particular scenario.

2 months ago the car had seized brakes, leaking calipers, and a 6 bolt that locked up and killed itself. The calipers seized up because the car was towed and put in a driveway to never have a single person touch it for another.. Probably close to 4 years. Now it's got a running swap and the car moves. All new calipers all around. Bled the thing a million times until the fluid was clean as can be. I had to strip 2 heads, grind the seats, re valve it, stem seals, etc. a "pro" over torqued the cam caps and destroyed the cams and head in a swoop. Jumped time, bent.. 6 valves i think it was. Got new valves, again... Another head, same thing, went to the location of the car myself, torqued the head on myself, torqued the cam caps myself, set time myself and finally were good.

Bottom line, it never should have went down like that but it is what it is at this point.

 

[Mikhail]

Alright alrighty. So I've been busy as all hell lately but here's the scoop of things that's been going on.. Did a swap for a friend. Motor was supposed to be built and ready to go. Rarely does that ever go as planned, but in this case, it actually did. Well minus a few hiccups of course.

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Detached itself from the tranny and seized into the transcase. Second gear killed itself as a result of the clip floating around and eventually getting caught up.

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It's a nice little build honest. The 272's sound great.

 

[Mikhail]

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First little hiccup

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Idling on 272's the following day.

Still need to do base time and get it idling perfect but its a nice little build for sure.