My build and the issues that come with it. looking for 10's or lower.*pics-videos*

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Of all the build journals, this is the one I'm most excited to see completed. Keep doing good work, man.

 

[TSimage]

I'm enjoying the journal. You have the ability to make everything seem painstakingly difficult to do . Its a gift!

As far as paint goes, do yourself a favor and don't paint those braces bolted up. I thinking your biggest thing is half assing turns into giving you a lot more work in the end. My motto, "Do it once, do it right" Remove your brakes, your motor mounts etc etc. If you're going to put in the effort to go to this extreme, make it worth it.

Other than that, keep up the good work and I will be excited to see it complete as well!

 

[compression]

I'm enjoying the journal. You have the ability to make everything seem painstakingly difficult to do . Its a gift!

As far as paint goes, do yourself a favor and don't paint those braces bolted up. I thinking your biggest thing is half assing turns into giving you a lot more work in the end. My motto, "Do it once, do it right" Remove your brakes, your motor mounts etc etc. If you're going to put in the effort to go to this extreme, make it worth it.

Other than that, keep up the good work and I will be excited to see it complete as well!

MAN! i know! My biggest problem is, i've never done most of this - Wiring, Body work , including the paint. So i go in head first with a " #### it , ill figured it out " attitude

I unbolted the proportion valve and bent the lines away from the firewall, theres a good 4-6 inches or so in between in some areas. I originally wanted to remove them as well, i mean shit i took everything else out but ive rounded of most of the brake lines on the proportion valve

On a side note, i have seen some of the work you do and its beautiful.

The color has changed again ( the body ) im going green i think! Found another 1ga in the color and aside from the whole F&F wanna be kind of thing, the color goes perfect with the body of a 1ga in my opinion. besides i have seen alot of charcoal/gray or black drag dsm's.

all the primer is dry, and has been for a while but it will not dry on this .. shit ..

whats wrong? i wiped everythinf with acetone and allowed plenty of time to dry..

 

[TSimage]

That seam crap requires a special paint. In terms of what most would consider non paintable. Basically it takes for ever to cure..

I simply remove it, it looks better and can be replaced with stuff that can be painted that is a lot smoother. After fussing with a razor on my black car I pulled out the wire wheel on the white one and it cleans that shit off to the bone but it makes one hell of a mess..

As far as the green goes, I'm not a fan. Even the owner of that car wants to repaint it. I agree on the typical white black and red DSMs but typically the best looking DSMs are white black and red hahaha.

I'd love to do some funky color for my own build as of now I think the white one will be a matte white with a matte black top but even so its still a panda. Hell I feel the same way with the purple accents but then I can't really think of anything else to use being from Sacramento (Kings) it just fits.

The important thing is that you never give up. We've all been there and ya gotta crawl before you walk. I remember my first wire tuck/ paint job etc. The only thing I recommend is to be a student of the process. Find someone who has done it or something similar and learn from their mistakes. It'll save you a lot of time, money and headaches! It will keep you from wanting to part the mofo out or burn it to the ground .

Keep up the good work and just ask questions. My inbox is open so hit me up or check out my build thread in the street section and ask away. Its a b*tch to remove all of the grommets and the braces and brackets but in the end its all worth it. Also fill those holes in on the fire wall. A lot of these engine bays/cars look good in pictures but you see them in person and you are disappointed at the lack of attention to detail. If you go with a loud color like that green then you have a lot of critics coming your way with fine tooth combs. Don't give haters a reason to feed.

 

[92AWDHX40]

They will at times as long as your happy why be the same as evreyone else, this is a car forum, keep focus and stay positive thats what keeps me going, a lot of things others say, are irrelevant to me.That seam stuff is pita tried to remove it when i was experimenting with my bay, ahh, thought it was just caulk.

 

[GAMEOVER]

i removed that seam sealer crap off my engine bay and filled it with bondo. when i shaved my engine bay.

 

[compression]

The engine bay will be black, my intentions with the engine bay will be to divert attention away from the actual bay , and into the engine. although i like the idea of a nice shiny clean engine bay!

About the green, i agree with you about it being a loud color and people automatically trying to hate on it. but i feel that really pertains more to a street car. As a drag car in my mind that kind of justifies the Paul Walker paint job? haha. And i like black.. white, and red.. But they are ALL black white and red

Guy who owns a race car fab shop in town has a wagon with a green, purple, white , and checkered flag paintjob on it, looks really silly but .. well just look!
Watch at :55 1:30 haha classic this thing is a beast. ( 1:30 some gangsters wanted to run for $2500 so he was not going to lift and just carried a wheelie for about half the track haha )

http://youtu.be/8DUMppJW94Y

i removed that seam sealer crap off my engine bay and filled it with bondo. when i shaved my engine bay.

I noticed you did that! i didn't want to go as far as that but i do admit , yours looks amazing!

 

[GAMEOVER]

just sand it down with a disc and try putting high build primer there? or sandable primer?.. i would guess just build it little by little very thin until you can work with it then i guess...
just a thought.

 

[compression]

Basically it takes for ever to cure..

Could i just continue with what i am doing? I will not be setting the engine back in for a month or so. Would it be cured by then? I am new to the body work stuff, i know i dont want to halfass it. If i had to scrape it off, it would be with a razor blade and sandpaper and may come out looking worse then how it came from the factory with that wanna be weld looking caulk shit.

 

[TSimage]

Could i just continue with what i am doing? I will not be setting the engine back in for a month or so. Would it be cured by then? I am new to the body work stuff, i know i dont want to halfass it. If i had to scrape it off, it would be with a razor blade and sandpaper and may come out looking worse then how it came from the factory with that wanna be weld looking caulk shit.

I've done it with razor blade and if you do it right ti actually can be smooth to the body and there is no need to ad anything else. It is 100Xs easier however to use the wire wheels to get ti all out. The seam is normally sealed on both sides so not much to worry about.

It will eventually dry but it will always be a delicate spot meaning it wont take any abuse or abrasion. Get some clear on it and let it cure under some lamps for a while and you should be fine. It'll look a million times better with it gone though .

 

[compression]

I am no expert on paint but i've heard its not a good idea to paint when its colder out, so i will wait a few days on the paint. its about 60* now is that too cold? This is florida i am sure it will be 80* again soon!

 

[compression]

Got some injector plugs off of my donor car, finished my ecu harness. Finished my chassis harness. Waiting on my beautiful florida weather to warm up a tad before i paint the bay.

Only plugs going to the front are the headlights ( still have to wrap my wiring.

My engine harness all hooked up. Still have to wrap and run it.

Thinking my resistor box is going here

I would have oil sling up on my windshield during driving , i think i found the cause.

I believe it was the oil cap ( i know for sure is leaking ) was leaking on the VC and traveling to the cam gear, or could be valve cover gasket, or the halfmoon.

would travel here

Down into here

Ah still some in there..

Pain in the ass.


I just ordered an ebay oil cap that i will double seals on if it leaks.

Donor car

Thinking i may do a 1gb front end conversion if i dont paint my car green.

What is next? i feel like i have hit a wall. cant paint yet, cant afford a clutch yet. finished the harness for the most part, i have a few hundred bucks to blow. Dont know what to buy?!

 

[compression]

Purchased a holesaw bit today to cut a hole in the firewall for my wireharness.

Should be a good spot for it.


Now let me start this off by saying "I am not a painter, i dont paint, i have never before"

With that being said! i painted my engine bay tonight i opened the door to my garage with the heat on, and the garage was 74* so i said what the hell and went and bought some paint.

Cheap stuff , but as a painting noob it looks legit!

i have no idea how to adjust the gun, there were three knobs, i figured out one was for air pressure, one was for amount of paint sprayed, and the other was for how wide you wanted the spray pattern, and the end of the gun had the knob for up and down , or left to right.

pictures i just now notice, i forgot to tape my lights up.. there is primer and paint on my freaking headlight lens.

 

[TSimage]

Well.. That's the easy way to do it..

 

[compression]

I have no idea what you are referring to

 

[ktime]

looking good to me you dont need no stinkin headlights haha

 

[TSimage]

I have no idea what you are referring to

Lol you shoulda left the engine in there too and just went to town on everything ahaha...

 

[compression]

Hey my first time ever, priming , painting, hell even holding a spray gun! . Does it look terrible? i don't have the experience yet to know if it is good or bad. I will have headlights, thats the only thing i left up front from the chassis harness, i will put the motors back and just leave them down, or use the manual adjusters to raise them.

I'm sure i can get the paint on the lens, if now it will be a good excuse to get new lights!

 

[TSimage]

Hey my first time ever, priming , painting, hell even holding a spray gun! . Does it look terrible? i don't have the experience yet to know if it is good or bad. I will have headlights, thats the only thing i left up front from the chassis harness, i will put the motors back and just leave them down, or use the manual adjusters to raise them.

I'm sure i can get the paint on the lens, if now it will be a good excuse to get new lights!

Not horrible but I know it probably looks better in pics than in person . Makes sure you put a heavy clear coat over that paint. That Lacquer crap fades fast and it is brittle. It wont take much abuse.. I would have recommended a valspar tractor paint or something similar that is a one stage paint and by themselves is cheaper than Duplicolor..

Like I mentioned before, you wanna remove as much crap as you can and mask everything else unless its being removed or repainted later. Gives it a professional look when you have the final product. Keep up the good work though. I am definitely not knocking it, you're going beyond what most would and I commend you but I am just giving some pointers for future reference.

 

[compression]

To be honest , i did not research paint at all. I went to get heatshrink and wire fron advance auto parts and saw it there.
and i was all, looks legit!


When i go to paint the car, what do you recommend?

 

[TSimage]

What look are you going for, what color and whats your price range?

 

[compression]

The green, clean . And maybe a little over 100 or so on paint. Or less.

 

[TSimage]

You're not getting that color paint that cheap . I could put you a setup together that would run roughly $150-200 give or take...

Trust me, it's not getting any cheaper than that ... Well unless you do a single stage Valspar/Rustoleum. If you want decent auto paint I am sure I can find you a single stage, easy to spray in a similar color, great quality for close though.

Is this going to be gloss or a matte/satin?


Kirker is your best bet and they offer a single stage color called "Sublime" that is almost dead on that car. With the activator you're lookin at about $90 but then you need to factor in a decent primer. Figure another $80-100 for a good primer although I am sure there is cheaper garbage out there. Either way you're lookin at the $150-200 range minimum as said before and no, it doesn't get any cheaper than that with a legit some what quality paint.

 

[compression]

Gloss, single stage or base and clear whichever, and that process seems ok

 

[TSimage]

Gloss, single stage or base and clear whichever, and that process seems ok

What process?

And for the price you want you don't have a choice in a SS or BC/CC. The Kirker Sublime SS is your only option BUT its a good one and the results will be awesome if you follow proper procedures.

Do your proper body work. Sand body to no less than 320 and no more than 600. I recommend a 400wet. Spray primer and allow it to dry for a couple hrs. Guide coat then block it back out and do the last repairs. After that take it back to 400wet. Spray your first coat and allow 15-30 for it to tack up then spray your second coat. If you have a quality primer then it will be full coverage.

Remember the first paint coat is a fog/cover coat. No over lap and don't try to do full coverage. The next coat will fill it in completely. If you have enough paint left (which you should) spray another coat. Color sand 1500-2000 grit then use miguires compound and it'll look pristine.

I could go into more detail but one step at a time.

Its all about having a good environment and remembering proper prep. Make sure to use wax/tar/grease remover as well as a tack cloth between any stage using primer or where you are away from the car more than an hr and it has been allowed to dry or be worked on.