My 2g 6 Bolt Build

[Spoolin98]

Earlier in my thread I asked if anyone knew where I should put my temperature sender within the thermostat housing. Here is a few pictures to show you guys what I'm talking about. Should I put it below the thermostat or above? I have seen it done both ways.

 

[Spoolin98]

Here are some more photos of my progress, the engine mount has been modified to fit. Everything has to come back off to put the tin plate behind the mount and I have to find the torque specs on everything. Basically this is a just a test fit.

I have another question, should the tensioner arm that holds the tensioner pulley have a little bit of play in it? I can wiggle it very slightly when its bolted down.

 

[gsxtacy]

as long as you used the Modified 2G mount (which I see in your pics ) and the 1g/6bolt tensioner arm you should be good to go...

I cannot recall if that assembly had any play in it...

What kind of oil does a real mechanic like yourself use in your DSM? (Oil has been discussed here many times, I just would like to know your Brand and Wt.)
What kind of break in period/procedure do you have in mind?

Looks like your coming along nicely and seem very thorough and knowledgable...

Ohhh and on a side note*

I noticed you are using a plug for your front BS block off...I recommend gently removing that front cover (I know....if possible) and welding (or having welded) a piece of aluminum plate to cover the FBS hole.....the Weld is Ultra Permanant...the plug could leak, or fallout, or seal great and never give you any problems....I am just saying while the engine is out, you could eliminate a possibility of a future problem.

 

[Spoolin98]

as long as you used the Modified 2G mount (which I see in your pics ) and the 1g/6bolt tensioner arm you should be good to go...

I cannot recall if that assembly had any play in it...

What kind of oil does a real mechanic like yourself use in your DSM? (Oil has been discussed here many times, I just would like to know your Brand and Wt.)
What kind of break in period/procedure do you have in mind?

Looks like your coming along nicely and seem very thorough and knowledgable...

Ohhh and on a side note*

I noticed you are using a plug for your front BS block off...I recommend gently removing that front cover (I know....if possible) and welding (or having welded) a piece of aluminum plate to cover the FBS hole.....the Weld is Ultra Permanant...the plug could leak, or fallout, or seal great and never give you any problems....I am just saying while the engine is out, you could eliminate a possibility of a future problem.

I did use the 1g tensioner arm, I just cant remember if its normal to have slight play in it, thanks for the input.

As for oil, I'm not sure what I'm going to use yet? What about yourself?

I was given a break-in procedure to follow by JAM. It is ALOT different from any other the methods I have seen on this site, but I'm going to follow it to a T. Ill type it up when I have time for you.

As for the front cover, there is no way that thing is EVER coming back off! I had to pound the crank sprocket on pretty damn hard, its not coming off without ruining or cutting something. I put the plug in with a high strength type of JB weld, I highly doubt its coming out. But thanks for the input, its much appreciated!

Thanks for the compliments, Ill type that break in procedure up for you asap.

 

[Spoolin98]

I have another question I need answered or help with. I want to thank all of you guys who are helping me out here.

According to the Haynes manual, the rear main seal for the 2.0 DOHC motor there should be a hole in the seal. Your supposed to face the hole down toward the oil pan so the oil can drain out. I did some research on here and some people mention the hole or oil separator? I'm not sure what the oil separator is? But I haven't came up with any real helpful information.

Is the hole only on N/T 2.0 DOHC's? Because the seal I removed didn't have a hole in it and the new seal doesn't have a hole in it either.

If anyone could help me out on this it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[brandonzero0]

Great job.

 

[Spoolin98]

Great job.

Simply put...Thanks!

 

[Rabbi]

Simply put...Thanks!

Just curious, Whats a rough estimate of your total cost for this motor so far?

Thanks =)

 

[1fast97gsx]

Nice setup. Is this going in an awd or fwd car?

 

[scottsee]

Sick car. I really like that distribution block you used to rewire your battery to the rear. I think I'm going to do mine a little better. It's ziptied to the cruise control bracket.

What tuning programs are you using. I noticed a MAFT manual ontop of your fuelpump.. Big thumbs up bud. Keep us upto date. It's always fun to watch somone spend $$, and even funner when it's done right!!

 

[Spoolin98]

Just curious, Whats a rough estimate of your total cost for this motor so far?

Thanks =)

Oh geez, ALOT! To tell you the truth, I don't even pay attention to the money I spend or It would just depress me.

 

[Spoolin98]

Nice setup. Is this going in an awd or fwd car?

Its going in my FWD eclipse, it may eventually be put in my talon awd if I don't swap an awd setup into my gst.

 

[Spoolin98]

Sick car. I really like that distribution block you used to rewire your battery to the rear. I think I'm going to do mine a little better. It's ziptied to the cruise control bracket.

What tuning programs are you using. I noticed a MAFT manual ontop of your fuelpump.. Big thumbs up bud. Keep us upto date. It's always fun to watch somone spend $$, and even funner when it's done right!!

Thanks for the compliments. I enjoy looking at my distribution block too

As of right now, I only have the MAFT. I only planning on running stock boost for awhile so the MAFT and datalogger will be fine, I hope! Eventually I'm going to purchase DSMlink and turn up the boost!

 

[mephist0]

So wich break in steps are u gonna use for the new engine and how much torque did you use on the Head Bolts? your build is similar to what I am doing too, I am only waiting for the block and head though hehe, and seeing that you are going to use that stroker motor on your fwd the's going to be alot of tire burnin'. nice work

 

[Spoolin98]

So wich break in steps are u gonna use for the new engine and how much torque did you use on the Head Bolts? your build is similar to what I am doing too, I am only waiting for the block and head though hehe, and seeing that you are going to use that stroker motor on your fwd the's going to be alot of tire burnin'. nice work

I will post the break in procedure as soon as I have time to type the entire thing up, just stay tuned and I will have it up as soon as possible.

I used ARP head studs with ARP nuts, not the OEM head bolts. They are torqued to 80 ft/lbs.

BTW, its not a stroker motor, its just a 2.0 bored .20 over.

Thanks for the compliment

 

[Spoolin98]

I still haven't found an answer to my question about the rear main seal?
I also still haven't found out if the play in the tensioner arm off the motor mount is normal?

I did find out an answer to my question about where I'm going to mount the temp sender for my water temp gauge. I'm going to put it below the thermostat in the lower half of the housing.

Thanks again to everyone for helping me out.

More pics coming soon...

 

[Spoolin98]

DO NOT FALSE START OR FALSE CRANK your engine to prime, this will not work and will cause serious damage to engine components. Prime the motor manually with the timing belt off by spinning the oil pump with a impact gun. This will ensure the motor is not started dry. Remove the valve cover while priming to make sure the oil has reached the top of the engine.

Install the timing belt. Fill the cooling system with HOT water just prior to start up. DO NOT allow the engine to idle during the initial start up/break in period, vary rpm's from 2500-3000 for 10-15mins, no load, free idle only, no boost pressures, turn off motor and check for leaks, check coolant system for air. Re-fire the engine and allow to run at fast idle for the remaining time equal to 25 minutes. A good quality NON-DETERGENT 30w motor engine oil should be used for the first fire and the 20-25 minutes of break in operation. (DO NOT LOAD OR DRIVE THE CAR WITH BREAK IN OIL)
Drain the oil and change the filter, use a good 10w-30 or 20w-50(for use with higher base pressure clutches) oil for the next 500 miles. DO NOT use any synthetics until after completing the full break in period. ALL CLUTCH CARS SHOULD DISABLE THE CLUTCH START SWITCH PRIOR TO CRANKING ENGINE

This is courtesy of Jackson Auto Machining, they only stated this break in for THEIR MOTORS. They did not state this will work with other motors, in fact, they suggest you ask the person who built your motor how to break it in.

I only posted this because individuals wanted to know how I was going to break in the motor.

 

[snowborder714]

When you get a chance, could you post a pic of where you mounted the water temp sensor?

Amazing job so far! I've been following this thread since it started and it just keeps getting better and better! Keep up the good work (and all the pics)!

 

[Spoolin98]

When you get a chance, could you post a pic of where you mounted the water temp sensor?

Amazing job so far! I've been following this thread since it started and it just keeps getting better and better! Keep up the good work (and all the pics)!

Thanks for the compliment, Ill post the picture as soon as I get a chance.

 

[Spoolin98]

Here is where I plan on putting the temp sender. The only problem is, I can only get it to thread in like 2 turns and then it stops. It becomes real hard to turn in and I'm afraid I'm going to crack the housing if I turn it in anymore. I hope it seals...

 

[Spoolin98]

-Cam gears are on
-Tin plates are installed
-Exhaust studs are in
-Coolant pipe installed

I'm hoping to have the turbo setup installed by Friday, Ill keep everyone posted and post some more pictures. I also got the sensors installed in the thermostat housing, I'm just waiting on the housing studs to install it because JAM took the studs out and never put them back in.

 

[AuntiesTSI]

Purdy!!! That in one of the cleanest engines I have seen. A buddy of mine, Street Surgeon on the board, bought new EVERYTHING to go on his and I only hope it's just as clean. I may have missed it but what turbo setup are you going to run?

 

[Spoolin98]

Purdy!!! That in one of the cleanest engines I have seen. A buddy of mine, Street Surgeon on the board, bought new EVERYTHING to go on his and I only hope it's just as clean. I may have missed it but what turbo setup are you going to run?

Thanks for the compliment. 90% of the motor is brand new. For the time being, I'm running the evo III big 16g setup till I save up for something better.

 

[Spoolin98]

I got the turbo setup all ported and put together last night. I forgot to take pictures of the port work, but it was many many hours of porting and polishing. Ill hopefully be putting the setup on the motor Friday, Ill definitely take pictures then.

I still haven't found an answer to my question about the rear main seal?
I also still haven't found out if the play in the tensioner arm off the motor mount is normal?
Anyone? I need a wiseman here, HELP ME!

 

[brandonzero0]

As for the hole in the main seal i didn't see one in any of mine taking out the old one and putting in the new one. no holes here..