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more hp but still daily driven

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18psi is nothing. The easiest way for more power is to turn the boost up. Maybe some cams as well. Try running 25lbs if you have the supporting mods for it. If not, get them so you can run more boost.
 
Being reliable is not about how the car is mod.
Being reliable is about how good you take care of your car, and how you drive it.

You can have 400hp (daily drive car) and being reliable.

There are many DSMer's DD with 400hp that are very reliable.

If you are racing at the street from light to light, You can brake even a Stock DSM.

My suggestions is Mod it for 300 350hp which your stock engine will hold for a long time, drive it normally, and when you need to show up the beast, then do it, But if you start playing with the car, then, you will end up braking something.

You all ready have good mods on, Just use them.

Boost it up to 22psi.
Do a really good tuning.
You can run different Fuel, which will gain more power.
Or Drop some CAMS.
 
Last edited:
Being reliable is not about how the car is mod.
Being reliable is about how good you take care of your car, and how you drive it.

You can have 400hp (daily drive car) and being reliable.

There are many DSMer's DD with 400hp that are very reliable.

If you are racing at the street from light to light, You can brake even a Stock DSM.

My suggestions is Mod it for 300 350hp which your stock engine will hold for a long time, drive it normally, and when you need to show up the beast, then do it, But if you start playing with the car, then, you will end up braking something.

You all ready have good mods on, Just use them.

Boost it up to 22psi.
Do a really good tuning.
You can run different Fuel, which will gain more power.
Or Drop some CAMS.


Well said sir......
William-
 
Reliability is generally good on these cars below the 400whp mark as miguelmcv posted, so sticking to the 300-350whp mark and doing all the regular services when they should be completed should ensure a long lasting relationship with your 4G63......I've had friends relatives with DSM's that at that power level lasted for years with them getting blasted almost every time the car was started........tuning,service and immediate repair of any failure is usually the keys for a long living engine..... one other thing I'll bring to your attention is to keep an eye on the condition of your oil...If you have fitted the engine with larger fuel injectors then you can bet your bottom dollar that the fuel not getting burned and the lack of a crankcase ventilation system is going to mean your engine oil will be getting contaminated with fuel vapor sooner....which in turn will break down viscosity ....which in turn will mean the bearings aren't protected as well as they would normally be, which means shorter engine life......if your normal oil change interval on the stocker is say 3500 miles and you have a larger fuel pump,injectors and the crankcase vent system is disabled (which it is in alot of cases) then your oil will come out smelling quite a bit like fuel during the oil change and look like water while being drained....shortening the oils time in the engine will be needed to ensure that the oil is thick enough to protect the engine and turbo system.
When me and my buddy modified his 3000GT VR-4 he started changing his oil every 2500 miles.......it seems extreme at first, but when we saw and smelled the oil it was obvious that it was the right choice.....just something you should think about other than the obvious mistakes that can be made involving reliability .
William-
 
I daily'd my old 2g with a PTE 57 trim on 28psi w/ pump 93 for over a year and a half. Then parted the car out and bought my new project which is my 90 TSi AWD. It's all in the tune and maintenance if it's done right. I know someone who daily's a HX-35 and makes over 550whp on e85 and it's the most reliable DSM I've ever seen in my life.
 
Reliability is generally good on these cars below the 400whp mark as miguelmcv posted, so sticking to the 300-350whp mark and doing all the regular services when they should be completed should ensure a long lasting relationship with your 4G63......I've had friends relatives with DSM's that at that power level lasted for years with them getting blasted almost every time the car was started........tuning,service and immediate repair of any failure is usually the keys for a long living engine..... one other thing I'll bring to your attention is to keep an eye on the condition of your oil...If you have fitted the engine with larger fuel injectors then you can bet your bottom dollar that the fuel not getting burned and the lack of a crankcase ventilation system is going to mean your engine oil will be getting contaminated with fuel vapor sooner....which in turn will break down viscosity ....which in turn will mean the bearings aren't protected as well as they would normally be, which means shorter engine life......if your normal oil change interval on the stocker is say 3500 miles and you have a larger fuel pump,injectors and the crankcase vent system is disabled (which it is in alot of cases) then your oil will come out smelling quite a bit like fuel during the oil change and look like water while being drained....shortening the oils time in the engine will be needed to ensure that the oil is thick enough to protect the engine and turbo system.
When me and my buddy modified his 3000GT VR-4 he started changing his oil every 2500 miles.......it seems extreme at first, but when we saw and smelled the oil it was obvious that it was the right choice.....just something you should think about other than the obvious mistakes that can be made involving reliability .
William-

I did notice the oil does have a fuel smell to it so ill start changing the oil more. Thanks for advice
 
Any time I wanted to shut someone up, I ran my tank till the fuel light came on, tossed in 5 gallons of 110, turned up the boost to 26psi and let they're jaws drop at the 15psi stutterbox.

Gotta do a little fine tuning to get her perfect though. And....you need those pesky supporting mods.
 
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