Misfire, w/ 6-bolt swap... different from the rest maybe??

[EclipseGSX13]

I am getting a misfire under low/moderate throttle, and throwing a CEL. I never get it under higher throttle, and it usually doenst happen in city (stop and go) driving. I usually get it when i am crusing at a constant speed.

Heres the odd part
If i turn my car off and back on it will go away. I can shut it off while driving, and then turn the key, or pop the clutch and it will start back up without the misfire, but the cel will of coarse still be there. However the misfire will come back fairly soon.

Has anyone had this problem or know a way to fix it ???

My car already has a 10k pot in it so the test pipe wont throw a cel.
Replaced: coil, wires, plugs

 

[Agent Ezzard]

It's the same as all the other RMs with 6bolt swaps. I had the same problem about 2 years ago with mine. I just disconnected the TPS and rode around like that for 8 months till I got the DSMlink. I even ran it at the track like that.


The only way to FIX it is a DSMLink, standalone, or a 1g ECU swap.

There has been talk about 1995 Hyundai OBDII 6 bolt front cases that use the crank sensor but as of yet no one has tried it that I know of.

 

[EclipseGSX13]

It's the same as all the other RMs with 6bolt swaps. I had the same problem about 2 years ago with mine. I just disconnected the TPS and rode around like that for 8 months till I got the DSMlink. I even ran it at the track like that.


The only way to FIX it is a DSMLink, standalone, or a 1g ECU swap.

There has been talk about 1995 Hyundai OBDII 6 bolt front cases that use the crank sensor but as of yet no one has tried it that I know of.

What are the side effects of driving the car without the tps connected?

 

[Agent Ezzard]

The only downfalls I've noticed are that under a hard braking decellaration sometimes my car stalled and if you take you foot off the gas when cruising, the ECU won't cut fuel like it normally would.

 

[EclipseGSX13]

sorry for the double

 

[EclipseGSX13]

The only downfalls I've noticed are that under a hard braking decellaration sometimes my car stalled and if you take you foot off the gas when cruising, the ECU won't cut fuel like it normally would.

I disconnected it and drove around a bit and it helped.
I was just wondering if by doing this it will mess with my S-afc II? Since the throttle setting for my afc are at 30% and 80% throttle, will the afc know when to uses these settings?
Right now when i look at the throttle on my afc it always says 0.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

That's one thing I forgot to mention. If you have a tune set in your AFC then Hi settings will not work since there is no TPS input for the AFC to work with. You can still drive around with it like that under Lo conditions. Sorry about that.

 

[EclipseGSX13]

That's one thing I forgot to mention. If you have a tune set in your AFC then Hi settings will not work since there is no TPS input for the AFC to work with. You can still drive around with it like that under Lo conditions. Sorry about that.

Tell me if this would be a reasonable solution.
Since if have 2 data files on the AFC, couldnt I just use one for the low settings and then one for the high settings.
In other words leave my low settings alone for the first data file. Then if I plan to get on it a bit, change the low settings in the second data file to equal my high settings in the first data file.

Then i should be able to lay down some hp without running lean?

 

[Agent Ezzard]

If you want to lay down some power reliably then I would solve the RM problem with a real solution. Ask for a DSMLink for Christmas. Just drive your car with the TPS disconnected. It is safer than the potentiometer. It'll just make you run rich as shit under high thottle. You can still go to the track or dyno tune. Just plug back in your TPS to use your Hi maps.

 

[EclipseGSX13]

If you want to lay down some power reliably then I would solve the RM problem with a real solution. Ask for a DSMLink for Christmas. Just drive your car with the TPS disconnected. It is safer than the potentiometer. It'll just make you run rich as shit under high thottle. You can still go to the track or dyno tune. Just plug back in your TPS to use your Hi maps.

I plan to get a DSMlink, but not till the spring. I was just wondering about a temporary solution when im driving with the tps unplugged, for when i need that little extra umph.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

If you play with the base timing you could see if it gets rid of the RM. Advance in small increments maybe up to 7 degrees or retard it in small increments to about 2 degrees BTDC. You could RIG up some kind of toggle switch to the 5v power wire for the TPS and you could toggle it when you are going to go WOT. Anything else anyone?

 

[sickfast2ndgen]

Just do the potentiometer mod. it takes a few bucks and all of 5 minutes to do. if you're worried about running lean then add some fuel back in with the AFC.

i did this over a year ago with my 6 bolt and haven't gotten a misfire since. plus, there are no driveability issues except that the idle fluctuates slightly with changing temperatures. if you ever do get DSMlink, all you need to do is turn the POT down to 0 and you're done.

 

[Nebo]

Just outta curiosity which coil pack do you have in your car??

Do the pot mod for a temp fix until you get the dsmlink. I think I had the same problem before and always drove in 4th gear.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

....if you ever do get DSMlink, all you need to do is turn the POT down to 0 and you're done.

If you get the DSMLink just remove the potentiometer and disable RM with it.

 

[hellotbone]

Exactly the same as my RM is doing. Im gonna spring for link in the spring probably. For those that did the pot mod what did you do for timing and fuel trims? I hear timing can get out of hand with that mod and fuel trims as high as back to 0% with 650 injectors doing the mod.

 

[EclipseGSX13]

Just do the potentiometer mod. it takes a few bucks and all of 5 minutes to do. if you're worried about running lean then add some fuel back in with the AFC.

i did this over a year ago with my 6 bolt and haven't gotten a misfire since. plus, there are no driveability issues except that the idle fluctuates slightly with changing temperatures. if you ever do get DSMlink, all you need to do is turn the POT down to 0 and you're done.

I have the Pot mod, but I still get the CEL light even with this mod

 

[TurboDSM86]

same here, the RM is a big pain in the ass.

 

[1fast97gsx]

I was going to do this mod but didn't want to have to retune anything. As far as the TPS unplugging option... if I'm tuning with a dsmchips chip with injector compensation and a translator the TPS doesn't need to be plugged in for anything at all does it?

 

[EclipseGSX13]

Just do the potentiometer mod. it takes a few bucks and all of 5 minutes to do. if you're worried about running lean then add some fuel back in with the AFC.

i did this over a year ago with my 6 bolt and haven't gotten a misfire since. plus, there are no driveability issues except that the idle fluctuates slightly with changing temperatures. if you ever do get DSMlink, all you need to do is turn the POT down to 0 and you're done.

I have the Pot mod, but I still get the CEL light even with this mod

 

[sickfast2ndgen]

did you use a 5k or 10k POT?

i *think i used a 10K and have had no problems whatsoever.

as for unplugging the TPS... i wouldn't. that is a major criterion taken into account at low throttle positions/low airflows. i know this b/c after my swap, my TPS wasn't set correctly. i would be giving a small percent (maybe up to 10%) throttle just to keep up with rush hour traffic (in first gear = very slow). i dont think the karmann sensor is sensitive enough at those levels to adjust the fuel accordingly, so the car would lag back and then jump the instant it saw throttle position. once i adjusted the closed plate resistance to .9k ohms, it went away.

moral of the story, your TPS is very important at low airflow settings b/c the resolution of the MAS is not very good down there. if you unplug it, your drivablility is going to get worse.

 

[1fast97gsx]

did you use a 5k or 10k POT?

i *think i used a 10K and have had no problems whatsoever.

as for unplugging the TPS... i wouldn't. that is a major criterion taken into account at low throttle positions/low airflows. i know this b/c after my swap, my TPS wasn't set correctly. i would be giving a small percent (maybe up to 10%) throttle just to keep up with rush hour traffic (in first gear = very slow). i dont think the karmann sensor is sensitive enough at those levels to adjust the fuel accordingly, so the car would lag back and then jump the instant it saw throttle position. once i adjusted the closed plate resistance to .9k ohms, it went away.

moral of the story, your TPS is very important at low airflow settings b/c the resolution of the MAS is not very good down there. if you unplug it, your drivablility is going to get worse.

I think there's going to be a noticeable difference between misadjusting it where it is still being used by the ecu just with the wrong values or it just not being there. I drove around with mine unplugged and noticed it ran really rich under heavy throttle and threw a light for the tps, but no random misfire.

As far as the random misfire another alternative I was introduced to by someone was instead of messing with the barometric pressure wire, why not put a potentiometer on the intake air temperature wire and add resistance until that gets under -10 celcius and this will also stop the misfire problem. All you have to do is hook up your datalogger and view the outside temperature and keep turning the knob until it's less than -10. Once that's accomplished just retune and no more problems. ( no trial and error ) This way your car will run too rich rather than too lean, and it also won't mess with your timing at all so this seems safer to do.