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Main Caps

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Im sure it would be fine if you use the mains off another 4g63 block, long and you have then line honed. I would just spend the 499$ to get a set thats 3x stronger then OEM from SBR. If you deside to check them out its in SBRs crank section with is in the engine category.

Dustin
 
I can't tell you how many motor's I have had brought to me with a main cap missing or no caps. I had a cardboard box full of them LOL. Make sure that they file the surface of the caps to ensure equal hieght and line hone them to make sure they work right. Might even have to oversize them a big and get oversized bearings just to be safe.
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
Im sure it would be fine if you use the mains off another 4g63 block, long and you have then line honed. I would just spend the 499$ to get a set thats 3x stronger then OEM from SBR. If you deside to check them out its in SBRs crank section with is in the engine category.

Dustin

a big waste of money. people have gone in the 8's with stock main caps. in over 10 years of racing dsm with big boost and nitrous i have never need anything but stock main caps.
 
nitrouskris said:
a big waste of money. people have gone in the 8's with stock main caps. in over 10 years of racing dsm with big boost and nitrous i have never need anything but stock main caps.

I don't think it's a waste, I think one of the biggest issues with the 4g63/4g64 bottom end, is the mains flexing too much. You'd be surprised what some of those people in the 7's, 8's, and 9's are using for main caps and girdle's. Just because they don't talk about it doesn't mean they aren't using it.
 
nitrouskris said:
a big waste of money. people have gone in the 8's with stock main caps. in over 10 years of racing dsm with big boost and nitrous i have never need anything but stock main caps.
Well when I do up my motor, Im going to be investing big $$$ just to cut that corner, and have my stock 190k main oem caps that are pressure tested to 30k go and mess the internals royally, Ill pay the 499$ to get mains that are pressured tested to 90k, and be confident that my bottom end it bullet proof, to go 40psi if I want,and a 75 shot.

Dustin
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
Well when I do up my motor, Im going to be investing big $$$ just to cut that corner, and have my stock 190k main oem caps that are pressure tested to 30k go and mess the internals royally, Ill pay the 499$ to get mains that are pressured tested to 90k, and be confident that my bottom end it bullet proof, to go 40psi if I want,and a 75 shot.

Dustin
we have a motor and main caps that are over 15 years old and has over 50 passes this year alone. we lanch the car at 9500 rpm shift the car at 10,500 all with stock main caps. and i have one of sheps old motors that he used to go 8's with and it has stock main caps.
 
Stock main caps are plenty strong enough for more than 95% of DSM's. A few excellent reasons have been posted above. If it were me, and I were at all concered about bottom end/ main cap strength, I'd spend $150 on one of Kevin Kiggle Main Girdle kits. He has info describing how the girdle works, and pics as well. The billet main caps are more or less for added peice of mind if you absolutely have to have it.

http://www.kigglyracing.com/Main_Girdle.htm

But to answer your original question, like others have stated, yes you can use different main caps, as long as you have the block line honed. You would do the same if you were to use the billet main caps, so either way, your looking at having it lined honed.
 
nitrouskris said:
we have a motor and main caps that are over 15 years old and has over 50 passes this year alone. we lanch the car at 9500 rpm shift the car at 10,500 all with stock main caps. and i have one of sheps old motors that he used to go 8's with and it has stock main caps.

You sure do talk about your shop and shop cars. Where are the pics? Got a website? As far as I know the motor that Shep is in the 7's with is the same longblock as the 8 second motor so how did you obtain it?
 
I have to agree with Dan here. Those caps are nice, no doubt, but they take a while to get, and they are not needed. Take that 400$ and buy yourself something else. Make sure you take it to a good place for the line hone. This is VERY IMPORTANT, and if done wrong can cause Catastrophic failure.
 
95blackGsTurbo said:
You sure do talk about your shop and shop cars. Where are the pics? Got a website? As far as I know the motor that Shep is in the 7's with is the same longblock as the 8 second motor so how did you obtain it?


Shepherd changes his setup pretty much every year. I know he's gone through a few engines in the last two years, but that's expected at his power level. The engine he used to get into the 8's, wasn't the same as the one he used to get into the 7's. It's very possible that he sold an engine or two along the way.
 
You sure do talk about your shop and shop cars. Where are the pics? Got a website? As far as I know the motor that Shep is in the 7's with is the same longblock as the 8 second motor so how did you obtain it?
sorry to bring up a old post but just noticed this and wanted to reply

1. i have been racing dsm for over 12 plus years, worked full time for a shop in nj for over 10 years and still do stuff there part time. not a dsm shop but we still can make them fly. road runners performance - mtk's welding race cars

2. i have do have pics. what would you like to see ???? over the years i just post 99.9 of my stuff on nj site

3. i got the motor from bj's, i do still believe i have the invoice.. would you like to see it or you can talk to bj himself as he is still around


4. any ques feel free to ask thanks.
 
Last edited:
Seriously? Five years later?

drunk post?

nope..... just stop going on here all together and just started to to come back on here again and was updateing my profile and seen the main caps post reply to me, so i wanted to reply because i never seen it before today.

thanks
 
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