maf translator help for a newbie

[ratatack]

ok so i have this major problem maybe some one can direct me about it. to start out with im new to the dsm world i purchased a 97 eclipse gst spyder that needed new rod barrings upon getting it i decided it would be wise to have the whole engine overhauled and have the crank turned or replaced and so on well i dont knw anything really about this car i got it bc i was in need of a car and i was tired of hondas and wanted something new and would get enjoyment out of i paid a guy to pull the engine and take it to a engine shop where id have the work professionally done with a warrenty and so fourth 2700 dollars later i get the engine back in runs mechanically sound but has a idoling problem i get it home and realize the black box (translator box) isnt hooked up (this should be the idoling problem i have? ) i dont know about this box this is where i need you guys help for advice in hooking it up right and i can get it tuned id really apreciate all the help i can get bc i dont know what im doing i have a friend that semi knows but needs some guidance bc he has never seen a translator box like this bf HELP

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[snowborder714]

Well, that might pose another issue now that I think about it. You have larger injectors, but no tuning device to compensate for them now that you eliminated the MAF-T. The car will run rich.

 

[jeffo]

If you still have the stock injectors, reinstall them. Without the MAFT to lean them out, you are going to be blowing way too much extra gas out the exhaust, washing down the cylinders, fouling plugs, etc.

 

[ratatack]

i dont still have them

 

[ratatack]

I do have DSM blue top 450's on my neon that I should be able to put on this car. According to the VFAQ, the 2gn GS-T came with these... so I should be okay there..

Thanks again,
S

 

[rush2252]

Whenever you check the timing be sure and ground the terminal I believe its one of the three plugs located up on the firewall you posted a pic of the connector earlier. If you dont ground it like in the VFAQ you will see erradic timing.

Judging by the mechanics scribbling it looks like the cams are 264/272 im assuming he actually measured them by his math but his chicken scratch is hard to see. It looks like your on the right path though.

Good Luck
-Kolby

EDITED

 

[snowborder714]

How many times do I have to tell you Kolby that only the early 2g's (possibly only the '95) had the brown timing plug?

 

[rush2252]

How many times do I have to tell you Kolby that only the early 2g's (possibly only the '95) had the brown timing plug?

Well so far the count is 3


Brian 5 Kolby 0 owned.

EDITED my previous

 

[snowborder714]

I believe there is no way to ground a 2gb without DSMlink or some other software.

 

[rush2252]

So your telling me there is no way to check timing on a 2gb? Thats odd I guess alldata is incorrect on that one, which doesnt surprise me I told you how they incorrectly reference some of their illustrations.

So you cant inspect timing with a light on a 2gb 97-99

 

[snowborder714]

I don't believe there's a way to ground the timing without going directly to the ECU plugs and finding the pins.

 

[ratatack]

so the 450's injectors will work right? also can i use a timing light to check timing or no. do you know which pins in the ecu should be tapped for ground thanks

 

[snowborder714]

Injectors will work.

I honestly am not even sure that you can go directly to the ECU plugs and ground something. I'm curious about this though, so I'll have to see if I can trace my brown plug to where the other end is. But from what I've read, you need a scan tool or DSMlink to ground it.

 

[rush2252]

Wow if thats the case im glad I own a 2ga. Thats obsurd that they would abandon the connector idea. Its used on alot of early GMs as well as the 1g's and 2ga's... I wish I still had access to my alldata to confirm. So there arent any timing marks on the lower cover or anything? I guess I could understand to an extent since there is no physical to adjust base timing on the 2gs but still doesnt make sense as to why the 2gas and 2gbs would differ that much in the wiring.

 

[snowborder714]

The lower timing cover does have marks and it's possible to set the base timing by hand, but you have to have DSMlink to ground the timing and a 1g adjustable CAS to change the timing.

The only deal with a 2gb is that you can't ground the timing without link. And with any 2g you can't adjust the timing.

 

[SuzukiRidr326]

how do you know what version it is. i have the same thing and in the bottom right corner it says 1.7?

 

[ratatack]

YouTube - Somewhat idling

That's with stock MAF...

Checked the BISS adjustment found here: 2G BISS Adjustment
For one, I do not have this $1,800 scan tool it talks about, so kinda just followed the steps that didn't use it.

Here's a couple pics of the cams... The only markings are an H on the intake cam and a J on the exhaust cam.
- Exhaust cam "J" marking
- Intake cam "H" marking
- Overall shot

Thanks,
S

 

[JMiller]

Not sure if you did this or not, but with the stock MAF you should have your BOV recirculated, also have you tried resetting the ECU after you've changed things.

 

[snowborder714]

Sounds much better after adjusting the cam gears. The cams aren't stock, but I'm not sure what they are. That head looks WAY too clean. It doesn't look like your oil pump is doing anything. I can see drops of oil here and there, but it's no where near as oily as I'd expect. And I'm looking at that image and see white chunks in your head around the lifters and oil ports - any idea what that is??? Any way you can verify you're getting oil moving?

You do have oil in there, correct? And there's enough gas in there?

I think you should also pull the plugs, see what's in there, see how they look, check the gap, and possibly replace them pending on all of that.

If so, I think the next step is probably checking the timing marks. If they're off, redoing the timing. If they're correct, doing a compression test.

 

[JMiller]

I agree with snowborder714 that head looks super clean.

 

[ratatack]

the car hasnt been driven when i had the motor rebuilt i had to replace the oilpump it has a new one installed i dunno if thats sum of the reason why there isnt much oil in there and it has oil and gas in there as for the head being so clean the previous owner had the top end rebuilt i really dunno what to do with getting this car going im so stressed over it all of you have really helped out so much we have gotten further and further bc of you guys thanks with the advice keep it comming i can use all the help i can.

 

[ratatack]

Sounds much better after adjusting the cam gears. The cams aren't stock, but I'm not sure what they are. That head looks WAY too clean. It doesn't look like your oil pump is doing anything. I can see drops of oil here and there, but it's no where near as oily as I'd expect. And I'm looking at that image and see white chunks in your head around the lifters and oil ports - any idea what that is??? Any way you can verify you're getting oil moving?

You do have oil in there, correct? And there's enough gas in there?

I think you should also pull the plugs, see what's in there, see how they look, check the gap, and possibly replace them pending on all of that.

If so, I think the next step is probably checking the timing marks. If they're off, redoing the timing. If they're correct, doing a compression test.

That white substance is white lithium grease (I'm assuming from the machine shop... ) I think the reason the car's head is clean is that it only has about 2 miles on it since the engine rebuild! It does have fresh oil, gas and plugs... I guess we're on to verifying timing and compression next...

I haven't recirculated the BOV because I do not have the factory bov or piping...

Thanks guys...
S

 

[rush2252]

I dont think the oil pump is doing its job as mentioned. Even if its been rebuilt there should still be clean oil in the head and well there isnt. Something isnt jiving in that aspect

 

[snowborder714]

I would leave the valve cover off and find a way to get a drill with a socket on it or an impact. That way you can "prime" the engine. With the valve cover off, you can watch and see if oil is getting up into the head. Do this after verifying timing though.

 

[ratatack]

update for everyone (she runs and idles) as far as the problem boost leak test was ran and was getting serious leaking from under the intake manifold, after removing manifold had found out that manifold had been port matched to head, and the air was escaping under the stock gasket, fixed it and timing was WAY OFF!! Adjusted timing back to zero. The belt is MUCH tighter over the gears (was a little loose before) so the oil pump should be supplying sufficient oil. Car does run a lil rough, so now we will try the translator because it's currently running stock MAF and we put the 560's back in once we found the boost leak. We'll keep you posted and put a new video up. THANKS TO EVERY ONE FOR THEIR INPUT ...WE WILL CONTINUE TO KEEP YOU POSTED UP ON PROGRESS.

 

[snowborder714]

Glad to hear you're making progress!!