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Machining oil galleys on 4g63 crank

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954g63gst

10+ Year Contributor
220
21
May 24, 2012
gardner, Massachusetts
Ok pick on me for being a noob an buying a cheap crank. But I have learned from it already. Now I want to know where can I send it to have the sides of the rod journals machine for oil passage. The rod cap seize the crank when torqued and I noticed the sides of the bearings is where it's binding and my oem crank has the oil galleys if that even what their called please help.
 
You may have wrong size bearings, if I understand your problem correctly, I do not understand your description of having the crank machined.

What do you have, and why do you describe your crank as cheap.
 
Post some pics of the problem along with part numbers of the bearings, and what rods and block you have.
 
Ok well I had another go at it. Plus I have and old piston and rod that went in nicely the rods I just got back from dsm graveyard were honed. but I noticed the chanfer was not as big as the original and is showing signs of wear. I do not believe its the bearings. all together it is the crank. but I know its possible to make work. I either got to have rods chanfered more or crank machined on the rod journal ends. Or both. I will get some pics let me go take some.

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The new 6 bolt rod on left the old on right
 
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This is what the new rod journals look like.

And yes I am putting 6 bolt rods on a 7 bolt crank.
Dsm graveyard machined the rods to fit.
The bearings for the main fit perfect
The rod bearing pn is 4B1185H
I only payed 190 for a new 7 bolt crank, and it's deffenatly brand new.
 
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Dsm graveyard does crap work, they didn't machine the rods enough. I would not trust any of their parts. What brand of 7 bolt crank is that?
Your best bet would be to start over with new parts.
 
It's a no name crank. And I wouldn't mind bringing the crank to get machined I have the original crank for reference. I also would get the rods chamfered a little more and I will have to mic the journals and see if I can go with a under sized rod bearing. Ok I am going to bolt the new rods to my old crank and see how that fits. If it fits, I am getting my crank worked on unless some one will sell me a used uncut 7 bolt crank with flanged bearing.
 
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When you bolt the graveyard rod to the crank, how much clearance do you have between the side of the rod and the crank? use a feeler gauge to check.

Keep in mind that the 6 bolt rod is thicker than the 7 bolt

I think you have more of an issue with rod with than with the crank.

Also check the vendor reviews in the marketplace tab, and do a search on DSMGraveyard.
 
It's a no name crank. And I wouldn't mind bringing the crank to get machined I have the original crank for reference. I also would get the rods chamfered a little more and I will have to mic the journals and see if I can go with a under sized rod bearing. Ok I am going to bolt the new rods to my old crank and see how that fits. If it fits, I am getting my crank worked on unless some one will sell me a used uncut 7 bolt crank with flanged bearing.

Why do you keep wanting to do something to the crank, if the crank even a no name is within specs, check the rods , those are the ones that are probably screw up, since it sounds like the machine work on the rods is suspect ( side clearance not chamfered}, be very careful checking oil clearance from bearing to crank.
 
Just to let you know I have the same problem with my 6bolts rods on a 7 bolts crank. I got it from DSMgraveyard and guess what???? The side clearance between the rods and the crank was too tight and the rod end up eating into my crank. I would do what Bogus suggest and check the side clearance and it will save you a lot of headache later.
 
Ok so checked the side clearance on the new rod with my old crank and it was right on. My deal with the crank is if I get the oil fillets machined its cheaper then buying a new oem for 500-600. I would show you guys the wear point but the light screws up my camera quality. And if its to dark you cant see it.
But the radius on the rod journals goes up to high on the side stopping the cap from fully tightening to the rod. if you get that logic. Now Monday I am taking the crank to a machine shop to quote this. What is the std rod journal size of a 7 bolt crank. so I can check if that is correct. But yes all of you saying buy a new crank are correct. If one would magically get delivered to my house I would be golden. unfortunately, I won't have 500 dollars any time soon, and a used crank needs machining anyways, and its still used. And I would lose 200 for this crank because no one would buy it. But if I machine it and later install a stroker I can sell this as a good crank.


***update***

Ok so I took the crank and rods to a machine shop. The owner provided me with good info. the radius on the rod journals strengthen the crank. The crankshaft was a hair over tolerances, and needed polishing to be exact. I give those who stated the rods were junk, 75% credit. Because they were the main issue, though the rods were not junk the sides weren't cut enough. He quoted me $95.00 for the sides of the rods to be machined down and chamfered. He also quoted me $50.00 for the crank to be polished and hell have it done next friday 5/10/13. Thanks members.
 
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