4g63 oil on clutch setup

[twiseman07]

i search for a while and could not find anything on the subject as of yet. i recently bought a 95 gst and have had a hell of a time with it.

first off i bought it with the head off and all the valve bent and when i say all of them i mean all of them. anyways i got it surfaced and all cleaned up and did a valve job on it... btw my first dsm. i got the motor all together and looking good and go to start it and turned the key and nothing ... so i finally figured out there was a short somewhere in the ignition and the starter.. so i manually wired a push button start...
anyway got it started ran ok idled kinda high but alll in all ok... the next day my car start having no power... stopped the car to find out the cat is glowing bright.
so i get it to the muffler shop and have the cat cut out and ran a straight pipe untill i could figure out what caused it.
the next day i pick it up and started it and it acted like it had no power once again. then finally it wouldnt start. finally figured out the fuel filter was so clogged it wouldnt run. get it changed and ran fine.
the next day i get to driving it and the f***** clutch burned out.
ok so i get tranny out and have orielys turn the flywheel and got a hd clutch from them since i have no mods would be fine. get it all together and something was not right. pull it out to find out orielys did not step the flywheel right. i will never take them another flywheel ever. so i had a clutch shop in kcmo fix the flywheel and put it all back together and shimmed the flywheel seeing how it was turned 2 times. so to my point i got it together and it was running good. except the dip stick was popping out. and i was leaking oil.. then it started like jerking when i put a little foot in the gas. i have a feeling it is the rear main seal leaking and oil on the clutch assembly. i was wondering if anyone had ever heard of this.. seeing as how the clutch stopped working on me last night like it burnt out again.
also was wondering i just got a bigger turbo a t3/t4 and was going to put it on not sure brand or anything bought on craigslist... and was wondering what a good, decently priced clutch assembly to put in would be to hold up to a bigger turbo.
also wondering if shimming the flywheel could of caused the leak in the rear main seal and causing a pressure issues in the motor to make alot of blow by...
i know its alot to read but i would really appreciate the help this car has been a big pain but i love it have bought 2 more already and gonna play with them all
let me know if you need anymore info to accuratly let me know whats going on

 

[WES_393]

Before you turn up the boost or anything, you gotta get it running good. If you suspect the clutch assembly to be the problem, buy a used stock flywheel and have it machined by a real machine shop. Most of the guys at parts stores can't operate a blender correctly let alone machine a flywheel into spec. A local shop did mine for around $50 which is a great price for knowing something is done right. While your in there for the 100th time, replace the rear main seal with an OE seal and gasket. That will eliminate any thoughts of the clutch failing due to oil leaking on it. Check the input shaft on the trans as well, if it's leaking you should notice it fairly quickly. Also replace the throw out bearing with a legit Mitsubishi bearing and make sure the clutch pedal is adjusted correctly.

If your going to want to upgrade the turbo in the future, you will need a clutch that can hold up to the torque. Once again, the parts store will fail you over and over with this. I would reccomend and ACT 2100 (if your still rocking the FWD) and a Southbend full face or ACT 6-puck unsprung. Then you would have a clutch setup that is tough as nails. I also have to ask, do you have any kind of logging system such as narrowband, wideband, SAFC, etc? It sounds like you might have some running issues as well. And when it comes time to throw on that turbo, you will need some way to monitor the engine as well as supporting mods to handle the increased airflow. But like I said, getting the car running smooth and trouble free will be the key to success in the future.

 

[twiseman07]

like i said i am pretty new to dsm i am trying to figure out the diagnosing systems like that i am not sure what to get... i think i have a pcv issues and i think so map sensor issues.. i been reading about map upgrades any suggestions?... also take some suggestions on diagnostic stuff like dsmlink and fuel management and such.
would be really open to suggestions and would like to get all this stuff fairly fast and cheap. thanks for the reply....
also have u heard of rear main leaking and affecting the clutch

 

[synthetek]

i think so map sensor issues.. i been reading about map upgrades any suggestions?

Your car does not have a MAP sensor it has an MDP sensor and it does not have any effect on how the car runs. Its just there for emissions to make sure the EGR is working. If your MDP is not working you will get a check engine light but it wont hurt performance. There are no MAP sensor upgrades, you could add a MAP sensor if you get dsmlink so you could log boost or run speed density.

also have u heard of rear main leaking and affecting the clutch

It could but it would be a pretty bad leak, it could also be leaking from the input shaft on the trans did it look like there was oil in the bell housing when you removed the trans?

 

[twiseman07]

also wondering if shimming the flywheel could of caused the leak in the rear main seal and causing a pressure issues in the motor to make alot of blow by...

can anyone let me know if that is causing my pressure issues? or is it the pcv system