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Resolved Lower Lateral Arm bolt backwards?

coloradotuner

Proven Member
117
11
May 20, 2013
Schererville, Indiana
I had the Transmission Rebuilt by a shop several years ago (2013) and now I could feel the ball joints starting to go, When I get to the through bolt on the passenger side It wouldn't slide out?! The bolt is blocked by the transmission. The shop that rebuilt the Trans must have installed this bolt backwards? I confirmed this theory because the other side the locking nut faces forward.

My only option is to cut the bolt, and find a new one because dropping the transmission is out of the question.

Just posting this to re-confirm and to help others avoid doing this by mistake.
 

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Mello

15+ Year Contributor
1,484
642
Jul 4, 2003
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
Mitsubishi assembles this with the bolt pushed from the rear & the nut & lock washer towards the front. I would check one of the support vendors on this site or go your local dealer.
 

coloradotuner

Proven Member
117
11
May 20, 2013
Schererville, Indiana
I also noticed this ordeal when replacing my shocks. SUCKS. I will be cutting it as well WHEN the time comes.

Had this same thing happen to me, had to cut it out with a sawzall and ended up cutting my axle boot at the same time haha

Ya it sucks, wouldn't be a DSM if shit like this didn't happen regularly. I will Sawzall it out tomorrow morning.
Anyway, local stealership had em, 14.99 per bolt :f-u:. I called Extreme psi and they had it too, but it was either pay shipping from them or source one local and the price difference was about the same either way.

I tried calling everywhere, Ace, Home depot, Fastenal, orch., O'reillys.. Etc.. They bolt is way to long, Like awkwardly long and no one had anything that came even close. Fastenal had a 140mm but it was going to take like a week to get here on special order. Crazy. I challenge anyone out there to find a simpler solution.

Part Description: Bolt (Through-bolt Lower lateral Arm )
Part # MB242334

Specs: Grade 8
M12
Pitch 1.25
Length: 135 mm

I hope this helps someone. :beatentodeath:

Or
 

EC17PSE

Freelancer
5,649
2,998
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I think being a suspension bolt it will be a grade 10.9 surely, even the rear upper bolt grade is a 10.9 so the front lower will be just as strong not weaker? Maybe it is,

It is ment to slide out backwards and the drivers side is srill tight but is ok to get out with a wiggle, i guess they did not think ahead and just out the bolt in! Sucks

I personally would of got a flanged 10.9 bolt or 12.9 socket cap bolt more for strength.
 

Mello

15+ Year Contributor
1,484
642
Jul 4, 2003
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
FWIW I have a 95 GST & 97 GSX. My bolts are oriented per the FSM.
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I've done a couple clutch job on each, tranny pull & rebuild, axle rebuilds & CV boot replacements. I yank these bolts & pull the front suspension apart (twist & pull) on these inner mounts to get the axles out & never had a problem removing these bolts with a little wiggling. Your profile says you have a manual & the picture is too close up for me to get my bearings but is this an auto?
 

EC17PSE

Freelancer
5,649
2,998
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
FWIW I have a 95 GST & 97 GSX. My bolts are oriented per the FSM.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I've done a couple clutch job on each, tranny pull & rebuild, axle rebuilds & CV boot replacements. I yank these bolts & pull the front suspension apart (twist & pull) on these inner mounts to get the axles out & never had a problem removing these bolts with a little wiggling. Your profile says you have a manual & the picture is too close up for me to get my bearings but is this an auto?
Looking at his piic he might be awd as im auto and my passenger side has plenty of room but these bolts are ment to come out towards the back of the car, the nut site facing the front of the car, just like your diagram their.
 

coloradotuner

Proven Member
117
11
May 20, 2013
Schererville, Indiana
FWIW I have a 95 GST & 97 GSX. My bolts are oriented per the FSM.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I've done a couple clutch job on each, tranny pull & rebuild, axle rebuilds & CV boot replacements. I yank these bolts & pull the front suspension apart (twist & pull) on these inner mounts to get the axles out & never had a problem removing these bolts with a little wiggling. Your profile says you have a manual & the picture is too close up for me to get my bearings but is this an auto?


Na na na. Please don't spread mis-information,

The pic you posted in of the drivers side.. I can tell by the Gusset (4) in the picture and thus the bolt slides backwards towards the Rear to come out. The passenger side should be the same, (slide to the rear to remove). If you look at my original picture, My bolt was sliding towards the front of the car hitting the tranny. No amount of wiggling or finesse could remove the bolt, since there was about 50 mm of galvanized steel bolt left to come out.

I cut the bolt head off out with a Sawzall and still had to punch it backwards towards the rear to remove.

Yes I am AWD, not sure if this applies FWD. The Trans-case might be slightly different.
 

chrysler kid

20+ Year Contributor
2,610
579
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
Front wheel drive bolt fits easily either direction.

On fwd trans you don't need to touch the control arms to remove the trans. Also I dont think you need to do it on awd either to remove the trans. The trans shop wouldnt drop the engine cross member just for the trans. So yeah you can thank Mitsubishi for assembling the cross member on a stand for that oopsie

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