2G Looking for experienced help

[JLeger20]

Hello everyone, I'm looking for any guidance/advice from any of you experienced DSM guys.

I just recently picked up a 1995 Eclipse GSX. It seemed like a very good base to me so I pulled the trigger. The only rust on it is around the rear hatch around the real window seal, and some small surface rust scratches on the roof and the inside metal from the hatch leaking.

Here is the information I got from the previous owner. Some kids overheated the original engine and blew it up, they then attempted to do an engine swap, I have a feeling they didn't do any research at all, and it never started again. I have no other info on the engine except that it is a 7 bolt, and I know there is low or no compression in cyl 1.

They relocated the battery to the back, and the fuel pump is hard wired.

At first glance to me both dash and engine harnesses look pretty chopped, I just started working on stripping the interior and already found part of the harness under passenger seat just clipped and left open. My current plan is to start at the ECU and track the interior harness to see where and what they cut and attempt to properly fix that, I will test the ECU when I do this to see if there are any problems. Then I will move on to tracing the engine harness and seeing what they did there.

The clutch sticks to the floor so I'm sure I'll have to replace the slave master cylinder. I'm expecting the engine is completely trashed, I have my eyes on a JDM early 7 bolt with 67k miles on it for 2,000. That engine was originally sold by Chicago JDM auto parts for $3500 in 2024, it is complete with a FWD transmission. Owner claims they tested the compression before he bought it and it is at 190 psi on each cylinder. This guy also has a 98 GSX donor that I can purchase parts off of.

From my research it seems like the engine harness swap wouldn't be too bad, but the interior one wouldn't work? I know its a big project, but I will get there with proper guidance. I'm looking for any opinions on my current plan, is it worth fixing the old engine if its a top end problem? I don't want to tear into the bottom end, I would rather do another swap from scratch before I attempt that.

I'm sure I'll have other questions as I keep working, If anyone would like any specific photos I can provide them.

 

[pauleyman]

What is your mechanical skill level? It would be much much cheaper to do a top end. Do a leakdown and pinpoint the problem. If the oil is clean you could roll the dice on the bottom end unless you want to pull some caps and take a look. You will likely incur timing belt costs etc even with a new motor. Head rework is 500 or less.

 

[JLeger20]

I have changed an engine before, and have done lots of other work on cars. This is for sure the biggest job I have taken, I'm not sure I could build an engine from the ground up, I haven't tried before.

I'm pretty confident I can follow a wire diagram and solder/shrink the wires, I have already glanced at what I think is the correct one, going to look into that more tomorrow. I kinda understand a lot of the problems DSMs have and have researched, compatibility problems and such.The only work I have done on a DSM is replace the head gasket on my old 90 talon non turbo.

If I fail no big deal, I got a great deal on the shell and I can likely sell it and get most of my $ back. If I absolutely need to, I can get help from my buddy who owns a shop or use his shop for the lift and such.

The engine has sat without oil for about a year, I plan to upgrade the timing belt regardless of which route I go. I was thinking of going with the gates racing blue belt, a lot of you DSM guys seem to like them.

What would you say is the first thing I should tackle? The ECU/dash harness, the engine harness, or the motor?

I have never done a leak down or compression test myself I normally just replace the parts, are they actually harder than they look? It doesn't look that complicated as long as your meticulous.

 

[chrysler kid]

I have changed an engine before, and have done lots of other work on cars. This is for sure the biggest job I have taken, I'm not sure I could build an engine from the ground up, I haven't tried before.

I'm pretty confident I can follow a wire diagram and solder/shrink the wires, I have already glanced at what I think is the correct one, going to look into that more tomorrow. I kinda understand a lot of the problems DSMs have and have researched, compatibility problems and such.The only work I have done on a DSM is replace the head gasket on my old 90 talon non turbo.

If I fail no big deal, I got a great deal on the shell and I can likely sell it and get most of my $ back. If I absolutely need to, I can get help from my buddy who owns a shop or use his shop for the lift and such.

The engine has sat without oil for about a year, I plan to upgrade the timing belt regardless of which route I go. I was thinking of going with the gates racing blue belt, a lot of you DSM guys seem to like them.

What would you say is the first thing I should tackle? The ECU/dash harness, the engine harness, or the motor?

I have never done a leak down or compression test myself I normally just replace the parts, are they actually harder than they look? It doesn't look that complicated as long as your meticulous.

The harness under the passengers seat is for the factory amplifier, its normal to remove them and bypass them

You need to see what you actually need for the car you have now. See if you can get signs of life from the car before you gut it and try to replace everything just because you have a hunch you should

In this situation none of us can physically climb under the hood of your car to tell you what kind of project you have gotten into

There is a large difference in engine harness for the 95-96 cars and the 97-99 cars. Mainly has to do with the cam position sensor location. The 95-96 models have the cam sensor behind the cam gears on the timing belt side, and the 97-99 cars have the sensor on the passengers side of the engine bay.

Stripping this car down to a shell immediately sounds like the wrong step in the “step one” of owning a project car. I’d strongly suggest assessing what you have before you determine what you need

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Rebuilding the engine is not going to be tricky it is just finding the correct person to do the machine work and check clearances but once done the rest is bolt on. The engine could be ok if sitting for so long without oil or you could have corrosion inside so a pan off check is needed and maybe pull the caps off to confirm bearing surfaces.

The pedal is just replacing both slave and master and check if rubber lines are good or needing to go get SS lines.

The fuel pump can be resolved into the factory wiring and then wire to the battery to get more power to it. That is fine.

As for the harness only change it if it is messy and chopped up loads. But if not then leave it as to do so you will need to remove alot of things to do this.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Start a build thread, post some pictures. You ever play a game like Zelda? The in-game world is so big - you can decide how you want to play - tackle all the main quests? Focus on side quests? Pick one thing and follow the rabbit hole until you get board and then go back to a main quest...

This is how car projects go. There are thousands of hours you can spend on a project car. You decide what is important - and you decide how deep into the rabbit hole you are going to go.

When the car isn't your primary daily driver - the project can go on its own pace - forever.
When the car is your primary daily driver - the project has to run or you don't stay employed.

I've done both - modding the daily driver is for the brave and only works when the car is currently running. You've got to start and finish your effort before the next morning - else you don't go to work.

When you have space for a project to sit - the pressure to have it running all the time goes away - and that lack of urgency can go on forever. You have to bring your own motivation for progress.

My advice - Make it work - then make it work better. If you are into a problem spot - fix it right - but don't let project creep and short term motivation side track your main quest.

 

[JLeger20]

It was already stripped down before I got it, basically only the seats and center console left.
I'll attach some photos of the engine bay. Since that harness is just the factory amp im not that worried about it now.

So far I have found wires just laying on the back of the block, exhaust, everywhere really. Missing bolts on thermostat housing. G6K is printed on the cylinder head which should be from a 95-96 right? It seems like this motor might also have the CAS on the passenger side though. I know these engines the timing really needs to be dialed in, so I provided a picture of the cam gears. The one on the right(backside) is at the 0 the other looks to be advanced 3.5.

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Start a build thread, post some pictures. You ever play a game like Zelda? The in-game world is so big - you can decide how you want to play - tackle all the main quests? Focus on side quests? Pick one thing and follow the rabbit hole until you get board and then go back to a main quest...

This is how car projects go. There are thousands of hours you can spend on a project car. You decide what is important - and you decide how deep into the rabbit hole you are going to go.

When the car isn't your primary daily driver - the project can go on its own pace - forever.
When the car is your primary daily driver - the project has to run or you don't stay employed.

I've done both - modding the daily driver is for the brave and only works when the car is currently running. You've got to start and finish your effort before the next morning - else you don't go to work.

When you have space for a project to sit - the pressure to have it running all the time goes away - and that lack of urgency can go on forever. You have to bring your own motivation for progress.

My advice - Make it work - then make it work better. If you are into a problem spot - fix it right - but don't let project creep and short term motivation side track your main quest.

Where do I start a build thread? I dont plan to take any short cuts. The most important thing is definitely to get it running.

Im really leaning towards just droping another engine into it and then worrying about the one that came in it, but the wiring harness is my biggest worry currently, everything I look at on it just screams chop job.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Under your login name upper right - drop down your items and select "Your Vehicles"

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Then select "Add a Vehicle"

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I see a few things in the pictures.
1. It's a 2G head and 2G Water Neck and 2G intake manifold.
2. Your power steering pump and reservoir are missing? (should be mounted above the Alternator)
3. The timing on the adjustable cam gear is not 0? why. Makes me wonder what Cams you have in the head.
4. There is a 1G CAS bolted to the 2G head - Why? 2G -7 bolt blocks have a crank sensor on the front case behind the timing belt. If the normal 2G sensor is not hooked up or is broken due to crank walk, then using a 1G CAS would temporarily bypass the issue, but you need to inspect the timing belt side of the engine to figure out if it is a 7-Bolt or a 6-Bolt short block.
5. Can you crank the engine over? Test for compression and oil pressure.
6. You have no turbo bolted to the exhaust manifold.

 

[JLeger20]

I see a few things in the pictures.
1. It's a 2G head and 2G Water Neck and 2G intake manifold.
2. Your power steering pump and reservoir are missing? (should be mounted above the Alternator)
3. The timing on the adjustable cam gear is not 0? why. Makes me wonder what Cams you have in the head.
4. There is a 1G CAS bolted to the 2G head - Why? 2G -7 bolt blocks have a crank sensor on the front case behind the timing belt. If the normal 2G sensor is not hooked up or is broken due to crank walk, then using a 1G CAS would temporarily bypass the issue, but you need to inspect the timing belt side of the engine to figure out if it is a 7-Bolt or a 6-Bolt short block.
5. Can you crank the engine over? Test for compression and oil pressure.
6. You have no turbo bolted to the exhaust manifold.

The turbo and intercooler was in the back of the car.

I cant crank the engine over yet, the key is bent. I had 2 replacement Mitsubishi keys, but the locksmith snapped one of them trying to cut it, and it pinched the bent key. Im now waiting on his boss to be free to cut the other one.

Im on my way to my grandpa's to pick up the engine hoist to pull the motor and place it on a stand.

 

[miliman13]

Sounds like the background for a car I once saw posted for sale

You ever play a game like Zelda? The in-game world is so big - you can decide how you want to play - tackle all the main quests? Focus on side quests? Pick one thing and follow the rabbit hole until you get board and then go back to a main quest...

This is how car projects go.

I love this example

 

[Justin DuBois]

Im on my way to my grandpa's to pick up the engine hoist to pull the motor and place it on a stand.

Maybe? Hanging in the car is where you can crank the engine and do diagnostics - Pulling it assumes you know what you need to do to fix it.

Consider getting some more information about what is wrong before pulling it.

 

[JLeger20]

Sounds like the background for a car I once saw posted for sale


I love this example

It probably is, I see you are in florida also.

 

[pauleyman]

I concur. Leave it in place for now. There are many things yiu can do quickly and easily to help evaluate how bad it is or isn't. As far as the harness goes is there just lots disconnected or actual damage/cuts etc?

 

[JLeger20]

Maybe? Hanging in the car is where you can crank the engine and do diagnostics - Pulling it assumes you know what you need to do to fix it.

Consider getting some more information about what is wrong before pulling it.

Just to make sure im understanding you correctly, do you mean leaving it mounted or lifting it a few inches?

I concur. Leave it in place for now. There are many things yiu can do quickly and easily to help evaluate how bad it is or isn't. As far as the harness goes is there just lots disconnected or actual damage/cuts etc?

There are things cut, spliced and the wires they spliced seem way to long, stuff laying on the back of block and trans. Even the fuel pump wires have been hacked into.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Just to make sure im understanding you correctly, do you mean leaving it mounted or lifting it a few inches?

If it is hanging on the motor mounts, in the engine bay, you will be able to connect everything it needs to crank, start etc. You can trace all the wiring harness issues down using the engine as a template for where the plugs need to go, and you can test the sensors etc.

Sure, you may be using hoist or jack to support the engine to take the motor mount off so you can remove timing belt covers, but you will be putting the motor mount back on to turn it over and visually inspect timing marks and compression.

If you have a harness that is really botched - try and identify which harness it is, and see if you can find a used one from a similar car. It may be better to buy a box of connectors and lay in the wires you need if they are hacked out.

 

[pauleyman]

There are things cut, spliced and the wires they spliced seem way to long, stuff laying on the back of block and trans. Even the fuel pump wires have been hacked into.

What youre seeing as hacked may just be poor looming etc. Show us. For sure somebody added something to run that 1g CAS, so there's that. Yiu need to verify what's there as it it simply poorly managed or needs repair.

 

[JLeger20]

What youre seeing as hacked may just be poor looming etc. Show us. For sure somebody added something to run that 1g CAS, so there's that. Yiu need to verify what's there as it it simply poorly managed or needs repair.

You may be right, it just looks like a rats nest because of the routing. These are every cut I have been able to find. The white/blue wires connected to that sensor are the ones that have a little bit of melt on them. I cant get the phone in there to get a good photo.

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[pauleyman]

You may be right, it just looks like a rats nest because of the routing. These are every cut I have been able to find. The white/blue wires connected to that sensor are the ones that have a little bit of melt on them. I cant get the phone in there to get a good photo.

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That all looks fixable. Its way less work to fix than replace an entire harness. The wiring colors and diagrams are in the manual as are every sensor location.

 

[miliman13]

Looks very doable
There’s great sources here that cover the engine harness with wire color identification

Use solder and heat shrink were applicable

It probably is, I see you are in florida also.

yes sir; a few of us actually

Hope to see it on the road soon.

 

[JLeger20]

Update on the engine, cylinder 1 has 80% leakage cylinder 4 has 50%, 2 and 3 both had 30%. Its pushing alot of air out of the oil dipstick.

I also noticed some surface rust that was hiding on the backside of the driver side strut tower. I want to get that sanded down and sprayed so it doesnt spread.

Last thing I noticed is the radiator support is a little bent, I saw other posts on the forums that its replaceable. I dont weld, so I cant do that myself but thats going on the list of fixes for later. Any tips on where to get those? Can I use one from a non turbo car if I pick up a GS donor? I was planning on doing that towards the end anyway for the missing interior.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Update on the engine, cylinder 1 has 80% leakage cylinder 4 has 50%, 2 and 3 both had 30%. Its pushing alot of air out of the oil dipstick.

Hmmmm, bore scope or pull the head.

 

[SNAKEEATERDSM]

Update on the engine, cylinder 1 has 80% leakage cylinder 4 has 50%, 2 and 3 both had 30%. Its pushing alot of air out of the oil dipstick.

I also noticed some surface rust that was hiding on the backside of the driver side strut tower. I want to get that sanded down and sprayed so it doesnt spread.

Last thing I noticed is the radiator support is a little bent, I saw other posts on the forums that its replaceable. I dont weld, so I cant do that myself but thats going on the list of fixes for later. Any tips on where to get those? Can I use one from a non turbo car if I pick up a GS donor? I was planning on doing that towards the end anyway for the missing interior.

There used to be a company I used in Clearwater called Clearwater Cylinder/Head. They can do heads and blocks and they did a very good job for me. Ive done dozens of motors with them.
Florida:

Cylinder Heads - Auto, Truck, Marine | Clearwater Cylinder Head

New and Refurbished Cylinder Heads at Great Prices for Cars, Automobiles, Trucks, and Boats. ASE Certified and Top Rated.

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