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ECMlink Logs please help

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kurt fuhlbrigge

15+ Year Contributor
92
0
Feb 18, 2008
canaan, New York
Can someone look at these and tell me what I'm doing .Car runs and idles good.Global is -28.5 and 180 deadtime with 660 inj , I don't have a wideband yet . I just want to get close .I had one spot of 0.7 knock .What am I looking for ?Thanks
 

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You need to adjust your TPS, and it looks like you haven't touched the MAF compensation yet.

On the Dash tab, set the boost gauge to show something useful, like knock for example.

Not sure why you are having to add fuel...people usually end up having to pull fuel to get AFR's in line. Post an idle log showing fuel trims.

Anything in particular you are asking about?

And get that wideband! :)
 
Assuming your running stock fuel pressure, -31 is the base setting for global fuel. By dropping to -28.5, you are adding fuel across the board... and you're adding additional fuel at WOT with the fuel sliders. You need to get your MAF compensaton dialed in and your fuel trims in line, and then start fine-tuning for WOT.

I HIGHLY recommend you spend a few hours reading through the DSMLink wiki and knowledgebase ;)

ECMLink Support Wiki
 
I did auto calibration for tps does it look off .It opens to 95% at full throttle . It was at 67% before

Better, but still off. Log TPS voltage and adjust it at the throttle body to get it close to spec (.63v IIRC). Then use the TPS adjust in link to dial it in perfectly. You should see 100% at WOT, and 0% at idle.

Did I move fuel sliders when I changed global ?

Well...I don't know when they were moved, but they were. :)
 
I was never at -31 . I just bought the car dealer put in a new dsmlink .He didn't have a clue . I am just learning how to tune ,when I found it at 25.8 global 90 deadtime I was trying to get back to the #s I read on ecmtuning site .So rich it made your close stink .I moved to 27.7- 180 dead time ,had no knock so I went to 28.5 -180 . Am I taking fuel away or am I confused ? Can I go more ? I'm thinking -31 is probably conservative and most people go the other way .
 
You should set it to the base setting (-31 in your case), and then leave it alone. All other adjustments to AFR will be done by adjusting the MAF compensation so that the ECU gets an accurate airflow reading, along with any changes you make to the fuel sliders...which only come into play at WOT.

Once you get the car dialed in, have done a bunch of reading, and have a better feel for tuning...you'll want to replace the Direct Access fuel tables (maps) with something a little less conservative. But don't worry about that stuff until you fully understand what is going on. The maps you are running are the factory stock ones, and are just fine for a good basic tune.

And work on getting a wideband. It makes tuning and understanding what is going on with your engine SOOOOOO much easier. ;)

BTW - Going from -28.5 to -31 on the global setting would be taking fuel out (less rich).
 
Zero out fuel sliders (right click on graph area > Zero all adjustments), research and fix DTC code, adjust TPS and rerun the TPS adjust wizard, add CombinedFT, MAFRaw and ClosedLoop to your Captured Values (F10) and then to your Displayed Values (F9), and get some idle logs with the car up at operating temperatures. Also make sure you do a boost leak test and fix any issues you find.

I would suggest if you want to seriously tune your car you get a wideband o2 sensor.
 
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You can tell the feul sliders were moved by the datalog ? Your good . Unless they change when you change the global or dead time dealer must have done it . Thats all I changed . And auto tps adjustment .Should they be changed back .
 
You can tell the feul sliders were moved by the datalog ? Your good .

ROFL

It ain't rocket science dude. You open the fuel tab and see the sliders aren't zeroed. :)

And no...they don't move with anything other than your finger on the keyboard or mouse while that tab is active.


I looked all over for that link... I knew I had recently seen it, but didn't realize it was in that thread. :p
 
You guys are killing me .I can bearly turn on my computer . You can tell I have a dtc code from that . You guys are blowin me away . Man I'm old school. Impressive . Anyway Dtc code was Tps . Is it safe to reset fuel trims to 0 set global at -31 and start over . I will read up on maf calibration .
 
I can tell because there's a DTC tab in the program ;)

The DTC code wasn't a TPS code.

"A DTC P0505 indicates that the ECU was unable to bring the idle rpm close to what it wanted. That's generally a mechanical problem unless you simply have the wrong idle rpm value specified in DSMLink. Too much air is being allowed into the intake manifold despite the ECU attempting to fully close the ISC. If the idle switch is open (simulated IdleSw indicates open at about 2% throttle), the ECU won't attempt to make it idle at any particular rpm (no closed-loop idle control), so it doesn't throw a P0505.
"

Sounds like you need to do a boost leak test and see if you're leaking from anywhere on/around the throttle body.

I see you have a 1g throttle body. Are you using a 2g TPS (build in idle switch) or a 1g TPS with the idle switch simulation box checked in link (which I see it is)? If you're not sure of the difference, pull off the TPS plug and count the pins. A 1g TPS has 3 pins and a 2g TPS has 4.



I'd highly recommend watching the tutorial videos for ECMlink if you're unfamiliar with the program.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php?osCsid=7sen00dqano3n2hgeoatsbgm75
 
2g tps .Also something dealer did . I did not know that box was checked . I see fuel sliders now . I was unaware they were changed .Do you see anything else . I don't know what happened one day the idle stumbled a little and cel came on .Then it was fine . Yes I will do a boost leak too .
 
I should have mentioned this right off the bat, but you also need to verify your base timing (5* BTDC), and properly adjust the BISS. Log the ICS value in Link to make sure it is within it's operating range.

All of the initial checks should be made before starting to tune. Some of these would include:

1. Base timing
2. Plug condition and proper gap
3. BISS adjustment
4. Voltage check
5. Base fuel pressure (if you have a way to monitor/adjust it)
6. BLT
7. Exhaust leak test

and additionally... a compression and leak down test never hurt either, just so you know what condition your engine is in.
 
Nope sorry I did do that .When I did the auto tps calibration.

Hey thanks for the video link .Good info . I have been reading alot but never saw those for some reason . So far I think I understand everything but the maf comp ,but I'll get it . I'm gonna play around today .I'll let you know how I make out . And thanks for pointing out the fuel trims .
 
Changed alot , car runs and idles good . global is low- 25.8 verses -31 and deadtime high 300 verses 180 .I was told it has 660 inj . still see some afrs up to 30 when I dump of gas and 18 when I'm just easing into it . Combined ft seam to bounce around zero . Are those afrs dangerous ? Opinions please .
 

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I tried to do everything you guys said . Readajust tps ,Turned of cel code ,Unchecked 1g idle box , reset fuel trims ,And did maf calibration .Car runs pretty good but the #s are a little scarry . How do you make it richer when you are rolling into the throttle? I see high afrs (16-18 )up to about 4200 rpms under part throttle (what is to high?) I know 14.7 is good . I saw a flash up to 65:1 afr when I dump of the gas .Seems good at wot .Does that matter cause it happens so fast . Looks like all within a 10th of a sec .It usually goes rich right after that .I would gladly have this car tuned but I haven't found anyone who can tune it yet . I need help from you guys that know what they are doing . I'm ok with the way the car runs as long as it it safe . Idon't know what to do next and I am not driving the car till I hear .Please help . If I am doing something wrong please let me know . log atttached . Thanks

Ok I can't attach log . It's in the log section under new log ,lots of changes please help. Thanks guys .
 
Merged your three threads into your original one.


I'm assuming you're looking at AFRatioEst when referring to those readings. This is because your injector properties haven't been set in the AFRatioEst properties. You have two choices.

1. Double click AFRatioEst below the graph and fill in the appropriate values that have been changed.
2. Upgrade the firmware on the ECMlink chip. There is a new value that doesn't require any user input to read correctly.

Other than that, I think it looks like a decent start.
 
That makes me feel good .Thanks for the help snowboarder . I'll give it a shot .

That was it ,makes a big difference .Now I'm back to the right global and deadtimes .Any idea why I'm boiling antifreeze in my overflow bottle ? is that timeing related or just coincidence ?I did,nt touch the timeing slider . Thanks
 
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