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Little planning for my 2G GST

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_Madman_

15+ Year Contributor
327
1
Oct 14, 2004
Riga, Europe
Hi, I have done quite a bit of research, but in the end I still guess it's better to ask, because every setup is different. And the community here can help me from doing big mistakes.

I am ordering a 3'' downpipe and o2 housing (Megan racing) for my car, and I was wondering what should be the next upgrades to plan for.

Basically the car is still stock'ish, but I have 4'' FP intake pipe, boost gauge, recirculated Greddy RS bov, Hallman MBC, 5zigen exaust tip (the last can), Greddy intercooler piping UICP & LICP, I have a 8 gauge wire ready for the FP rewire, and I also have an Apexi power intake.

Since I'll get the downpipe with o2, I can also throw out high flow cat, downpipe and o2 housing parts from the 2G upgrade list, and that leaves me only with catback, turbo, FP and exaust manifold steps to go for stage 1.

The car is running at 16 psi as of now, that is the boost pressure I got after removing BCS restrictor, and so I left it at that with MBC.

So what should I do next?

There are many ideas, but none of them are verified, and I like parts to be verified and solid.

1) I would like to go for 16G big in a near future + install kit
What I doubt here is, what will happen with the driveability, I have a GST, so there is a big problem with traction. Also what sort of rebuild will I need for LICP? How awfull the turbo lag will be with this turbo if I'll just bolt it on current setup and will it heat the air less then T25 I have now?
2) I was thinking about upgrading the exaust manifold with this one "Forced Performance DSM Race Manifold" EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Forced Performance DSM Race Manifold: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
But I also have no idea if this is the best manifold. It is supposed to be heat coated, so that should help a little, but there are some tubular designs, and some say they are better.
3) Cat back
This one is really expensive, with shipping it is around 800$, so I'm still thinking If I can just leave it for later.
4) FP
With rewire it should work for now, won't it?

So these are the ideas. I don't know what should I plan for next, and I don't know how the car will respond to those upgrades.

Right now heat is a bad factor, but intercoolers for 2Ga are ugly and expensive, so if I can I would like to skip that for now as well. 1/8 mi times are going anywhere from 10.033 to 10.600 secs on my car right now, street tires. But I haven't shielded the air filter from the engine, and maybe there is some way to get cold air here (designing a heatshield is a little bit complex with 4'' intake pipe and recirculated bow + aluminium pipes)?

The car is a daily driver and I would like to keep it as much sleeper as possible. Performance target for me is to get it somewhere where stock BMW M5 (before E60) would not be a problem in 1/4 mi drag.

I also have a 98/99 ECU that allows to do serious data logging, but I cannot use it because of the inverted CAS, I hope I will be able to flash it later on.

So, what would you suggest me, how much money will I need to reach the 1/4 mi ET target and what parts I will need that I haven't mentioned?

Thank you!
 
Well I see you have done a bit of research before asking. Good for you :)
I think a big 16 would do well for you. I dont think traction will be a big issue as long as you have some tread on your tires. I would look into some poly mounts though. As far as ic piping you should just need a j-pipe going towards the passenger side and another to go from it to the sidemount. I think a few years ago my 2g install kit came with both pieces.
The FP dsm manifold would definitely be the best manifold period. However I question if you really need to upgrade the exhaust manifold right now. Many people run a stock or ported 2g manifold. It is much better than a 1g. I would save your money right now, but if you're bent on getting one then do get the FP.
I think you could be good with a rewire for now but 16 psi on a 16g is much more air than 16 psi on a t25. I see a 190 or 255+regulator in your near future. Also you seem to have some way of datalogging, that is good, but you will need some way to tune the car here soon. You can either grab you a safc or go ahead and get ecmlink if you plan to take the car very much further. Your call. A safc will handle up to 650cc injectors and is much cheaper.
 
Yes, I have the polyurethane mounts, they have gotten a little bit softer than they were right after the install, but I have all 4 of them installed. I also have Fidanza 3.2 clutch and Fidanza lightweight flywheel installed.

Then I guess I will have to cut the lower aluminium IC pipe and connect it with the J pipe. Should I expect any clearance issues with 4'' intake pipe? I had to bend some water lines for the intake pipe to fit.

So if I understand correctly, then you suggest to get big 16G next, then with the fuel delivery and engine management?

I will go for Wallbro 255 + FPR if I'll do the fuel upgrade.

Concerning engine management, I hope that I will be able to flash my 98/99 ECU by that time. People at OpenEcu have done some incredible work and things look promising there.

P.S. Concerning 16G flowing more air. Is the max boost limited by CFMxPSI or PSI? So far I understand that 16G will blow cooler air at 16 psi than T25 at 16 psi. However, if the boost pressure is equal (say 16 psi), I should be able to run both turbos without additional fuel delivery for 16G setup, right?

The problem with 16G will be that it will be more prone to boost spikes and boost creeps than the T25, and it will not fall on it face @ 6500+ RPM, thereby possibly overboosting the stock fuel delivery maps.

Is my theory correct?
 
Im not too familiar with the fp intake so I dont know what to expect. Yea Id say go with the big 16, fuel system, and engine management. Yea I was following the quest to flash a 98-99 ecu for awhile but I have just decided to get ecmlink. I still am running a safc + maft now. Hopefully they can get it going. As far as how much boost to run I would turn it down on the 16g at first and see how it acts. Do you have any datalogging capabilities now? I would look at idc's and afr. I didnt see a wideband on the list so at the very least you could look at your front o2 volts. They should be at around . 94v at wot. But Im not the guy that is going to tell you to tune with a narrowband.:rolleyes:
 
I rechecked the pipe description at the shop and they say that J pipe clearance is ok with their coupler (EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Forced Performance Aluminum Intake Pipe: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99) since I got both parts I'll hope it's true.

I don't have a wideband O2, so I'll think about that. Concerning data logging, EvoScan works just fine on newer ECU and I was hoping I could get rough tune by watching knock sum and timing advances, but you are right, I guess I will need wideband somewhere down the road too. There is a small hickup with the 98/99 ECU and CAS, but I hope I'll find a way to solve it next week or so.

I was starting to write that narrowband is really messy and that logs are awful, but then I opened one of the EvoScan logs and it seems it might actually work for a rough tune. Attached picture (O2[min] top, IDC[max] bottom).

Concerning flashing, it seems that the latest cable and EcuFlash should allow to reflash H8 ECUs, but I have to finish my studies this/next week, only then I will be able to check that out.

Thank you for Your input, it all starts to slowly come together :cool:
 

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