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Lets talk Ebay FMIC. Especially if you have one.

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chicagoavenger

15+ Year Contributor
981
13
Aug 17, 2004
Rio rancho, New Mexico
I have read a couple of threads on ebay intercoolers but just wondering which ones out there that are actually good? Allot of them have something that goes like this

"Good for up to 500bhp(I have seen from 350-600). all our intercooler has been tested to withstand more then 80psi pressure and it has very small pressure drop across the end tanks, at 15psi inlet the out let has 14.8psi that means it has only 0.2 psi pressure drop ,compare to many other intercoolers it is an excellent figure (some intercooler has 1-2psi pressure drop) also at the same condition, the temperature has drop from 120 degree to 28 degree ( and it is an excellent figure for efficiency"

Is the above statement just a bunch of bs or true? Has anyone tried the Megan racing FMIC? I think it's crazy to spend 700+ on a core and piping. I really don't care about name brands I just want it to work. Kinda like a Dave Brode part or Megan Racing or Johnny Racecar FMIC all cheap but effective with great quality. Here are just a couple of FMIC I'm talking about that look good but do they perform and will they last? Please chime in if you have a ebay FMIC or had one especially if it worked or did not work well for you. thanks

Megan FMIC

No name brand but has the standard psi and efficiency spill

Street Imports FMIC

XOXO Core but has good feedback on the core
 
my98GST said:
Heh, screw you guys....I just cant wait to actually get mine running again :D So everyone tightened their lower right tb nut with a combo wrench?

Has anyone else had a problem with this? I thought this was the easiest part of the install.

Did ssauto make the elbows different causing a problem?
 
I dunno about yours, but my pipe bends right into the stud and its so close I cant get a box end or a socket on it.
 
Ok I've read this thread over and over and looked at all the pictures. On RedTurboEclipse's car I notice that the intercooler is mounted using the square tubing bars and also the bolt is as close to the endtanks as possible. If you was to cut the excess square tubing off would there be a possibility that the fog lights would still mount or mount with a bit of trimming? If not what bout cutting the square tubing off completely and having new mounts welded onto it in a different locatoin so you can have a different mount and keep the lights. I'm not exactly sure how the fog lights mount, can someone get pictures of the foglights before they take them off?
 
Narco said:
Has anyone else had a problem with this? I thought this was the easiest part of the install.

Did ssauto make the elbows different causing a problem?

Its not that hard.yeah its tight but you just put a wrench on it and go slow increments.I would agree this was a easy part as well.
 
I have absolutely no leverage in mine. Before i can even get it on the nut its either too far up and its hitting the tubing or it comes down too far and hits the motor...

Damnit, I guess I got a shit kit or something. I realitively know what I'm doing but god I keep running into problem after problem after problem. Now that I'm trying to mock up my radiator, the side of the radiator (excess metal) is hitting the coupler so its not allowing it to slide down into the bottom radiator holes. I'm going to take a sawzall and take the rest of the metal off. Also how did you guys mount your overflow tank?
 
Seriously, go to your nearest Sears, and look at their stuby 12mm combo wrench. It should work for you unless you have some freakishly short intake runners that bring the throttle body closer to the head. It costs ~8 bucks itself.

Those of you having trouble getting the nut started b/c the stud is too close to the elbow: back off the other 3 fasteners (2 bolts and 1 nut) so that you can slide the elbow out and clear enough room to get that lower nut started.
 
All I gotta say is this fmic kit better be worth it or I'm going to burn my car and collect the insurance money :D
 
zachakagoat said:
Ok I've read this thread over and over and looked at all the pictures. On RedTurboEclipse's car I notice that the intercooler is mounted using the square tubing bars and also the bolt is as close to the endtanks as possible. If you was to cut the excess square tubing off would there be a possibility that the fog lights would still mount or mount with a bit of trimming? If not what bout cutting the square tubing off completely and having new mounts welded onto it in a different locatoin so you can have a different mount and keep the lights. I'm not exactly sure how the fog lights mount, can someone get pictures of the foglights before they take them off?

Yes you can cut the excess parts of the mounting tabs. However the problem is not there, I THINK it is because of the piping. It runsr ight through where the fog light goes. However I don't know cause I have a 95, someone with a 97+ might be able to chime in. If it turns out that the main problem for not being able to keep the fog light holes are the side mounting tabs, one cold easily cut them off, and use the center top mout tab alone, just have to make sure to find a secure mounting point/bracket.
 
my98GST show us a pic of the throttle body pipe on, I doubt its different then everybody elses. Screw in by hand, then combo wrench very slow increments.

As for the overflow, thats all personal fabrication, put it wherever you want. You want to make it look nice your going to have to do some extra work. If not, you can just have it sitting int he same spot, the hood will close and it iwll function, but it will look incomplete hanging crooked,etc.
 
here is a tip that i came across that would have been handy....

when your cutting the side radiator support for the left side of the fmic, directly behind there is huge loom of wires that arent entirely noticeable if you dont have the intake assembly off that are zip tied and held down by the coolent resevoir holder, before you start cutting, go ahead and cut the zip ties and coolent overflow holder and move that loom AS FAR BACK AS YOU CAN GET THAT BEAST...or far enough that when you start with your dremel or power drill and start connecting the dots that you wont accidently punch through that mass of wires like i did, took about 45min for me to patch all the wires i cut...snap

in the end you'll have to do this step to get the pipes to run through there anyway so you might as well do this to start with

this may be one of those common sense statements, but it wasnt common sense to me until i punched through:D
 
I guess no one saw my post about the easiest way, at least for me to get that lower bolt on. What you want to do is basically cut a slit in the UICP flange so that you can just slide the bolt over it while it is already threaded into the intake manifold. I also cut a slit in the other lower part of the flange so that I could just slide both in. I should of taken some pictures when I took my pipe off to install my MAFT. If I take it off again for some reason, I'll make sure to take pictures to help everyone out. Actually when my buddy gets his in the mail, I'll take a bunch of pictures and make a "how-to" on installing this intercooler.
 
BrockLee GS-T said:
here is a tip that i came across that would have been handy....

when your cutting the side radiator support for the left side of the fmic, directly behind there is huge loom of wires that arent entirely noticeable if you dont have the intake assembly off that are zip tied and held down by the coolent resevoir holder, before you start cutting, go ahead and cut the zip ties and coolent overflow holder and move that loom AS FAR BACK AS YOU CAN GET THAT BEAST...or far enough that when you start with your dremel or power drill and start connecting the dots that you wont accidently punch through that mass of wires like i did, took about 45min for me to patch all the wires i cut...snap

in the end you'll have to do this step to get the pipes to run through there anyway so you might as well do this to start with

this may be one of those common sense statements, but it wasnt common sense to me until i punched through:D


We talked about this already. We warned people about the radiator wiring..should of read the last pages of the thread and everything could of been avoided.

Off the subject, I have a writeup for the installation with pictures. Should I post it? or is everyone already done with their installation?
 
Im in a very early stage of compiling all the pics/info from tihs thread into a webpage. I can host the writeup/pics and add it to the website, along with dsmlink logs, etc. (of course author will always be credited). Let me know. Or if someone is close to finished I can save the effort and just drop the idea. LOL.
 
A write-up would be great. I just ordered my kit and it would be hard to search everypage for a detail or advice for a certain part of the install I am working on at the time.
 
I'm almost done with me :) Just gotta finish cutting the front bumper cover to get it to mount up flush, and do just a tid bit more trimming on my IC piping.
 
RedTurboEclipse - I was thinking of posting it on Tuners mainly for those that still need a step by step instructions with pictures. I wasn't sure how many would see this useful so I asked if it was still needed sense most of us already installed it.
 
so greddygst why exactly are you changing FMICs? Are you not happy with ## greddy? and if so are you selling it? ;) LOL
 
my98GST said:
I have absolutely no leverage in mine. Before i can even get it on the nut its either too far up and its hitting the tubing or it comes down too far and hits the motor...

Damnit, I guess I got a shit kit or something. I realitively know what I'm doing but god I keep running into problem after problem after problem. Now that I'm trying to mock up my radiator, the side of the radiator (excess metal) is hitting the coupler so its not allowing it to slide down into the bottom radiator holes. I'm going to take a sawzall and take the rest of the metal off. Also how did you guys mount your overflow tank?

I used the stock bracket for the overflow tank and mounted it in the stock ic spot.I dont know what everyone else used to cut out the radiator support but i used a holesaw,it worked great and only took 20 seconds.It was a perfect fit for the tanks to go in,I didnt have to trim it or nothing.I would recommend using one if you got it.Using a sawzall seems a little akward to get in there.
 
GreddyGst said:
RedTurboEclipse - I was thinking of posting it on Tuners mainly for those that still need a step by step instructions with pictures. I wasn't sure how many would see this useful so I asked if it was still needed sense most of us already installed it.

hey i forgot to take pictures but i can help with the text if anyone is serious about doing this
 
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