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Lets talk Ebay FMIC. Especially if you have one.

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chicagoavenger

15+ Year Contributor
981
13
Aug 17, 2004
Rio rancho, New Mexico
I have read a couple of threads on ebay intercoolers but just wondering which ones out there that are actually good? Allot of them have something that goes like this

"Good for up to 500bhp(I have seen from 350-600). all our intercooler has been tested to withstand more then 80psi pressure and it has very small pressure drop across the end tanks, at 15psi inlet the out let has 14.8psi that means it has only 0.2 psi pressure drop ,compare to many other intercoolers it is an excellent figure (some intercooler has 1-2psi pressure drop) also at the same condition, the temperature has drop from 120 degree to 28 degree ( and it is an excellent figure for efficiency"

Is the above statement just a bunch of bs or true? Has anyone tried the Megan racing FMIC? I think it's crazy to spend 700+ on a core and piping. I really don't care about name brands I just want it to work. Kinda like a Dave Brode part or Megan Racing or Johnny Racecar FMIC all cheap but effective with great quality. Here are just a couple of FMIC I'm talking about that look good but do they perform and will they last? Please chime in if you have a ebay FMIC or had one especially if it worked or did not work well for you. thanks

Megan FMIC

No name brand but has the standard psi and efficiency spill

Street Imports FMIC

XOXO Core but has good feedback on the core
 
No, I'm asking if I just cut out the front of it then bend it down and cut a sliver out of the back of it, or if I have to cut the whole thing out?
 
to eclpsgsx97- beads...Yes,that´s that word;)
BTW,If will make boost leak test,I can´t simulate Air turbulence and clash at shifting and venting BOV.I think this is main reason when IC pipes blew.

-RedTrboEclipse-using some shape dremel to roughened surface will be fine.I was thinking too-just use sandpaper.

any other ideas?
 
cfisher said:
I have a 98 GSX and there is a black box on the drivers side that is in the way. The piping runs right into it. Can I remove it and what the hell is it? It looks like it is AC related.

It's the charcoal canister for the evaporative emissions system. You can remove it, I did, and the lines that run behind the radiator also.
 
my98GST said:
No, I'm asking if I just cut out the front of it then bend it down and cut a sliver out of the back of it, or if I have to cut the whole thing out?

Just cut it out:thumb:
 
Narco said:
It's the charcoal canister for the evaporative emissions system. You can remove it, I did, and the lines that run behind the radiator also.

Thank you sir. I already have my EGT blocked off so I'm pulling all that crap out tonight. I also heard the canister was under the battery so I wasn't sure what it was. Thanks for the help and I'm yanking all that crap out. Anything I need to look out for when removing it. I noticed the lines go all the way around the radiator and up the passanger wall. Where do they end or will I find out once I get down there.:thumb:
 
cfisher said:
Thank you sir. I already have my EGT blocked off so I'm pulling all that crap out tonight. I also heard the canister was under the battery so I wasn't sure what it was. Thanks for the help and I'm yanking all that crap out. Anything I need to look out for when removing it. I noticed the lines go all the way around the radiator and up the passanger wall. Where do they end or will I find out once I get down there.:thumb:

It ends at your gas tank. I disconnected mine right by where the FMIC goes through the core support, and looped the lines.
 
Narco said:
It ends at your gas tank. I disconnected mine right by where the FMIC goes through the core support, and looped the lines.

Thanks dude. I appreciate your help on this one. Did they change this on the 98 or something. I've seen all the other charcoal cannisters under the battery.
 
They must have, I've removed my battery bracket when doing my clutch, and there are just hose connections under there.
 
I must say that this has been one time consuming biotch of an install so far. But most won't have to mod their turbo to make the setup work.

This is definately not a bolt on and go affair.

I haven't had any pipe fitment problems like others have, except that the 2'' 90 tube is too long.

The core mounts super solid, good enough to stand on.
 
Narco said:
I must say that this has been one time consuming biotch of an install so far. But most won't have to mod their turbo to make the setup work.

This is definately not a bolt on and go affair.

I haven't had any pipe fitment problems like others have, except that the 2'' 90 tube is too long.

The core mounts super solid, good enough to stand on.

Yea, I'm going on 2 days now. Someone on here said they got this done in 2.5hrs? I'm just about done and working on the bumper now. I went ahead and removed the cannister and looped the fuel lines but the loop is kinked. Is that going to cause a problem? I also noticed there was a harness hooked on to the cannister. I imagine I leave this plugged in and just zip tie it somewhere.

P.S. I also had to cut the 90 deg pipe about 2" but it fits up now.
 
LOL 2.5 hrs no way! Not done right anyway, but I'm anal.
Those two tubes just vent evaporating gas from your gas tank, only an EPA thing. You could plug them off, no big deal.

I also had the turbo mods, a broken O2 sensor housing stud, which stripped the O2 housing upon removal.

I had to wait over the weekend to replace my turbo oil drain gaskets. Plus misc. other B.S.
 
MarsaGSX said:
Back to my question about connecting IC pipes(if don´t have beads)
Checked Ebay, Found:
Low temperature Aluminium solder and weld kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/Low-temperature...oryZ9886QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

does anyone used this thing? read have to use propan and heat, Do I need any welder agregate?
THX


Not sure if that will work or not since I have never used the product, but on my old FMIC setup I made my own piping and I didn't have any of my piping beaded. What I had to do to not make it pop off is double clamp each side and use a longer then normal coupler.
 
Anyone have like some what of a step by stepish write up or notes they would like to share? Or pics?
 
yep....2.5 Hours. That was me.

I had just installed the engine/trans when I started the FMIC install, so really I had alot of the time consuming stuff already removed/out of the way. :coy:

From running car, back to running car, this IC kit "could" be very time consuming.

I have had good luck with it SO far.

Keep the updates coming guys.
 
my98GST said:
Anyone have like some what of a step by stepish write up or notes they would like to share? Or pics?

I've taken pics of everything I've done so far, but we-todd-did is down and I have no host.
 
so who else besides gsxtacy and i are done with their installs? so far so good. It's a pretty basic install. The pics already provided in this thread, and all the information is good enough. Someone who had the time could weed out and compile all the install info on one clean page and that would pretty much be the write up.

Another tip. Mount the core first to where you know you like it (making sure the pipes line up) . Then trim the bumper. I didnt do this and now the bottom part is cut more than it should be. It was perfect and flushed when the core was mounted wrong. Now that the core is mounted right, it shows how off I was with the bumper.
 
I have had mine on for acouple of days now and all I can say is what a big improvement over my old core. If I had the proper tools I could of done the install in about the same time that gsxtacy stated.
 
So pretty much alligned straight the first time is moutning the core by drilling a hole in the middle of the top tab, then bolting the left mounting bracket in the fog light holes? then install the bumper and trim the black section off? Or what?
 
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