ECMlink Late model gm maf

[The90GSX]

Hello all. Curious if anyone has tried to use the late model GM 5 wire MAF instead of the 3wire.

In research on Ls swapped vehicles when converting to a 5 wire the MAF you can purchase a MAF pre calibrated so it should be plug and play.

The 5 wire is both MAF and intake temp so no need for the bulky 3 wire MAF and intake temp. It’s all built in on a nice small sensor.

My car is currently down at the moment while I redo the engine harness or else I would be experimenting.

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[steve]

Do you already have the old GM MAF adapter cable?
If you don't the question is a non-starter since native GM MAF cables are no longer offered.
If you do I'm guessing that you could tune around any differences in the MAF and IAT response.

 

[The90GSX]

Do you already have the old GM MAF adapter cable?
If you don't the question is a non-starter since native GM MAF cables are no longer offered.
If you do I'm guessing that you could tune around any differences in the MAF and IAT response.

I do have it all. The previous owner either had it and not hooked up. Or had it hooked up wrong. He had it in the turbo inlet where the factory junk went.

The gm maf is suppose to be in the charge pipe before the throttle body correct?

Sorry he didn’t have on the turbo inlet. It was laying in the back seat. From what I gathered it appeared to be hooked to the turbo inlet.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

I do have it all. The previous owner either had it and not hooked up. Or had it hooked up wrong. He had it in the turbo inlet where the factory junk went.

The gm maf is suppose to be in the charge pipe before the throttle body correct?

Sorry he didn’t have on the turbo inlet. It was laying in the back seat. From what I gathered it appeared to be hooked to the turbo inlet.

You can run the GM maf in either configuration, blow through (after the turbo and before the throttle body) or draw through (before the turbo). More importantly though, you’d have nothing to gain by going to that style of MAF. While many complain the GM maf is outdated tech, it does work well and using ECMlink’s maf clamping capabilities you can make a lot of power with one, however the next step would be speed density which is pretty much limitless and dirt cheap anymore. That’s not to say “switch to speed density!”, I’ve used speed density before however there’s things I like about using a MAF as well even as “outdated” as it is claimed to be therefore it’s very likely the trusty old GM maf I have here may very well be finding it’s way back on next year.

Something to keep in mind is that MAF sensor pictured appears to be a Hitachi unit same as Ford and many other automakers used from the early 2000s on, and how I can’t comment on how they do with boost I will say from currently owning several Ford’s that use that style of MAF sensor the “made in Mexico” all plastic replacement ones the parts store sells are complete garbage and go bad if you just look at them wrong. It’s cool thinking but it’s a solution to a problem no one has anymore. The traditional GM maf is proven to work very well when used properly and if you do actually exceed it’s limit, or just don’t want the maf coupled in anywhere in the charge piping, then speed density is the next step as it’s inexpensive and cheaply obtainable.

 

[bastarddsm]

I'm likely to be the only guy using a slot MAF like this. Mine came from pmas, and it's tweaked to measure past 100lbs/min in a 2.5" pipe! Anyway, the Ford Hitachi ones are a frequency MAF. IDK if this one really is or not, you will need to verify that - I was pretty sure current GM stuff is voltage based. You will also need to verify what dia tube it's supposed to go in to get the same calibration.

If it's frequency output, it's likely you will be able to get it to work. It might just take a bit of tuning, and fiddling. The only tough thing I've seen is that the Ford Hitachi seems to have a lot of temperature dependence at low flow rates. I don't have any real data, other than just what I've seen in my use, and how I needed to tune around it.

 

[The90GSX]

You can run the GM maf in either configuration, blow through (after the turbo and before the throttle body) or draw through (before the turbo). More importantly though, you’d have nothing to gain by going to that style of MAF. While many complain the GM maf is outdated tech, it does work well and using ECMlink’s maf clamping capabilities you can make a lot of power with one, however the next step would be speed density which is pretty much limitless and dirt cheap anymore. That’s not to say “switch to speed density!”, I’ve used speed density before however there’s things I like about using a MAF as well even as “outdated” as it is claimed to be therefore it’s very likely the trusty old GM maf I have here may very well be finding it’s way back on next year.

Something to keep in mind is that MAF sensor pictured appears to be a Hitachi unit same as Ford and many other automakers used from the early 2000s on, and how I can’t comment on how they do with boost I will say from currently owning several Ford’s that use that style of MAF sensor the “made in Mexico” all plastic replacement ones the parts store sells are complete garbage and go bad if you just look at them wrong. It’s cool thinking but it’s a solution to a problem no one has anymore. The traditional GM maf is proven to work very well when used properly and if you do actually exceed it’s limit, or just don’t want the maf coupled in anywhere in the charge piping, then speed density is the next step as it’s inexpensive and cheaply obtainable.

Thanks for the info. I’ll most likely just keep the maf I have. I’m very new to the dsm world. In processing of researching stuff I stumbled across that late model maf conversion and it gave me that idea.

 

[The90GSX]

You can run the GM maf in either configuration, blow through (after the turbo and before the throttle body) or draw through (before the turbo). More importantly though, you’d have nothing to gain by going to that style of MAF. While many complain the GM maf is outdated tech, it does work well and using ECMlink’s maf clamping capabilities you can make a lot of power with one, however the next step would be speed density which is pretty much limitless and dirt cheap anymore. That’s not to say “switch to speed density!”, I’ve used speed density before however there’s things I like about using a MAF as well even as “outdated” as it is claimed to be therefore it’s very likely the trusty old GM maf I have here may very well be finding it’s way back on next year.

Something to keep in mind is that MAF sensor pictured appears to be a Hitachi unit same as Ford and many other automakers used from the early 2000s on, and how I can’t comment on how they do with boost I will say from currently owning several Ford’s that use that style of MAF sensor the “made in Mexico” all plastic replacement ones the parts store sells are complete garbage and go bad if you just look at them wrong. It’s cool thinking but it’s a solution to a problem no one has anymore. The traditional GM maf is proven to work very well when used properly and if you do actually exceed it’s limit, or just don’t want the maf coupled in anywhere in the charge piping, then speed density is the next step as it’s inexpensive and cheaply obtainable.

After more research I found I already have speed density . Explains why the MAF was in the back seat. The 4bar map and iat sensor are just tapped into the harness.

No clue why the previous owner didn’t use the ecm harness. I bought this car not running due to hacked up ignition wiring for a “cool” push button start. After that went in the trash and back to oem I got it running.

Always had a weird random misfire at idle and low rpm driving. Thought maybe it was wiring issue reason I pulled the harness off.

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