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Koni struts Prokit bumps tops and prothane kit. Questions

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Flybiyou

20+ Year Contributor
304
3
Apr 8, 2003
somewhere, Illinois
I searched and couldn't find anything when installing Ebaich pro Kit on the Koni yellow rear struts I noticed there's a half inch play after tightening everything down. I called Koni and asked if I had to move the C clip to the upper location and was told that the lower location was where it was supposed to be. If i were to move the c clip to the upper location everything with fit snug after tightening everything down. Anyone thats done this can you chime in and let me know if this is correct?

Also I've been reading a lot about cutting the bump stops per the pro kit instructions and getting mixed reviews. My other eclipse I had the pro kit on a AGX struts and never had a problem after cutting the bump stops. Again anybody that's done this will you chime in with your opinions and review on koni yellow struts only.

I also installed the front strut bushings prothane kit and have been reading mixed reviews on it as well about damaging the strut. I called Koni and ask their opinion on using urethane bushings in the strut mount and they said its actually better to use those instead of the soft rubber stock ones. Anybody that's done this give opinions and reviews please. Thanks in advance
 
Second question:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/does-cutting-bumpstops-affect-ride-quality.491272/

Third question:

I would HIGHLY advise that you do not use poly bushings on any part of the front suspension that directly connects to the front struts. This would include the upper and lower strut mount, and outer bushing on the lower control arm. Here is an excerpt from Far North in regard to the front suspension:

"I cannot possibly emphasize this enough: the 2G DSM front suspension pivots several degrees back and forth just by turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock. The Audi-style double-lower-balljoint "virtual steering pivot" front suspension is designed to swing the shock around. Any resistance to the shock rod pivoting will either bend the shock rod or buckle the mount."
The resistance in your case would be the stiffer bushings. Below is the lower control arm bushing that should also remain rubber:


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I'm really confused on how the bushings for the strut rod to the top Mount can cause binding and bend the rod.
I didn't use the lower bushing that the fork would attach to cause I can see this causing a issue. I am not doubting you but am trying to understand this. If the softer bushings allow flex then it seems that could also bend the strut rod with the strut moving all over from the rubber upper mount bushings and the lower rubber bushing that the fork is attached to.
 
The strut assembly acts like a pivot point as the suspension is in motion. Even more so with steering inputs. Because of this, the bushings (upper and lower) need to give as little resistance to these forces as possible. With stiffer bushings, more of the bending forces are then transferred to the strut. It may not bend the strut, but it will definitely shorten the strut's service life.
 
So with the poly bushings on just the mount the car will be more stiff but wear the strut out faster? This will not cause a dangerous situation but more of a $ issue on struts? What if i just leave the lower poly mount bushing in and take out the upper poly mount bushing and install a new stock rubber bushing? This way i dont have to remove from the car but yet get the stiffer feel?
This car I'm building I bought as a project car. Lucky if it will see 5000 miles a year. And some drag way time. Weekend driver and will be kept garage for winter.

So the rear strut poly mounts are OK though since the wheel does not pivot?

Again thanks for the info and thoughts as well as anwsering all my questions Steve.
 
Also I see you use the prokit on your gst. What did u do to your bumpstops? I read the post you linked during a search I did. I had a 98 gst 10yrs ago I sold when I got married. I ran AGX and prokit cut bumps and it felt and rode fine then. It was my DD back then.
 
Honestly I hated the setup. It was my first DSM. The spring rates are terrible, and actually hindered performance. To answer your question, I cut the bump stops in half. The car now sits awaiting it's next transformation as an AWD. At the very least, I would go with the tried and true GC coil conversion with your choice of struts.
 
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